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  1. #1
    Senior Member LuMax's Avatar
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    Can I safely remove cantilever braze-ons?

    I just built a new 26" front wheel (Velocity Blunt + Schmidt's Original Nabendynamo 28 CL 32h Disc Hub) for my new cargo bike (a Yuba Boda Boda) and will be utilizing a Hayes disc setup for braking. The bike came with V-brakes, but I wanted better wet weather stopping power for when I'm carrying a heavy load.

    I thought that the cantilever studs were threaded on, but closer inspection has revealed that they are braze-ons. They are brazed onto threaded bosses. Damn. I had planned to remove them when I installed the disc conversion.

    Now I have the studs sticking out which could easily grab onto something, but also look pretty stupid. Since I plan to own this bike for a long time and roll up plenty of miles on it I would really prefer to remove them.

    I have soldered a lot of copper pipe and have a nice MAPP gas torch; do you think I can carefully remove the studs without harming the fork? I am thinking about threading a long bolt into them, wrapping the fork in a big, wet rag by the boss, and then carefully heating the studs just enough so they will come loose. FYI: The fork is chrome-molly.

    If I mess up the paint that is no big deal, I am having a pint of matching paint mixed already to paint some accessories.

    If I ever want to go back to cantilever brakes, I can simply buy two threaded studs.

    Opinions? Thanks.



    Last edited by LuMax; 04-08-13 at 12:55 PM.

  2. #2
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    Firstly, those look to be welded onto the fork, not brazed, so obviously you won't be able to remove the whole lot. It's possible that those are two-piece studs, with the actual pivots brazed into the bits that are welded to the frame, in which case it might be possible to remove the pivots.

    Secondly, your plan to replace them with threaded studs if you ever go back to cantis is a bit iffy. Threaded studs thread into fittings on the frame or fork, and you haven't got those fittings.

    Are they really that much of an issue that you want to remove them?
    I'm back!

  3. #3
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    You can just get covers for them - it'd probably be safer and much easier to use some of those.

  4. #4
    Senior Member LuMax's Avatar
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    Yes, despite the ugly looks, I think they are a safety issue leaving them like that.
    I really have no intention of using canti brakes on this bike.

    The boss that is welded to the fork leg is clearly threaded (lower photo), aren't those threads for attaching a threaded brake post?

    Like these:

    Last edited by LuMax; 04-07-13 at 05:39 PM.

  5. #5
    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    yeah, very good chance those posts are threaded into those braze/welded bosses. removing the actual bosses is another story.

  6. #6
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    Since you mention having the bike heavily laden, why don't you mount a front rack like this http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product...2_167593_-1___
    to the canti posts?

  7. #7
    Senior Member calstar's Avatar
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    If you really must remove them cut them off as close as possible with a hacksaw and carefully clean the remaining up with files and emery cloth, no need to use any torch.

    As suggested consider using the bosses to mount a front rack; check out Old Man Mountain racks in the links below. These are bullet proof and made in the USA(Santa Barbara, Ca). The ones from nashbar are nowhere near the quality or have close to the carrying capacity, nashbar max load 15lbs vs 40 or 50 on the OMM models. I'm restraining myself from from calling the nashbar rack junk but 15lbs ain't much cargo.

    http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/...AndSherpa.html

    http://www.oldmanmountain.com/Pages/...rontRacks.html


    Brian
    Last edited by calstar; 04-07-13 at 06:42 PM.
    "The older I get the better I was" (from Old Guys Rule t-shirt)

  8. #8
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Yeah, why not just remove them entirely? Don't mess around with a torch, just cut and file.

  9. #9
    Senior Member LuMax's Avatar
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    I plan to leave the bosses as is, just want the posts gone.

    Also, I already have this rack that is custom made for this bike and bolts to the frame:




  10. #10
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuMax View Post
    I plan to leave the bosses as is
    Why on Earth would you want that? You've said you 'really have no intention of using canti brakes' and in any case you won't be able to replace the studs easily once removed.

    ???

  11. #11
    Certified Bike Brat Burton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuMax View Post
    Yes, despite the ugly looks, I think they are a safety issue leaving them like that.
    I really have no intention of using canti brakes on this bike.

    The boss that is welded to the fork leg is clearly threaded (lower photo), aren't those threads for attaching a threaded brake post?

    Like these:

    Different fittings to do the same job. The ones on this photo are designed to thread onto alloy castings as found on some suspension forks. If you don't like the looks suggest you install plastic caps. Normally caps come pre-installed. You might not want post mounted brakes, but a number of other interesting things (lights, racks ...) might attach there too.

  12. #12
    Senior Member calstar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burton View Post
    You might not want post mounted brakes, but a number of other interesting things (lights, racks ...) might attach there too.
    +1
    "The older I get the better I was" (from Old Guys Rule t-shirt)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuMax View Post
    The boss that is welded to the fork leg is clearly threaded (lower photo), aren't those threads for attaching a threaded brake post?
    Most probably not.

    The threads you're seeing in your lower pic is more probably simply the thread for the screw that secures the brake arm that's been continued straight through the base of the pivot. Easier machining that way, and less need to match brake securing screw length to a particular maximum allowable insertion depth.

    If you're really that intent on removing the pivots but leaving the consols I'd suggest you use a hacksaw to cut flush with the painted surface.

  14. #14
    Old fart JohnDThompson's Avatar
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    Putting disc brakes on a frame/fork not designed to take the braking forces might be asking for trouble. Why not just replace the present cantilevers with tandem-duty ones for greater leverage? That's what we would do for loaded touring bikes back in the day.

  15. #15
    Senior Member LuMax's Avatar
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    It came with V-Brakes but also has a disc caliper tab welded on. The fork is made for either.



    (I still need to trim the Pitlock skewer about 5mm)
    Last edited by LuMax; 04-08-13 at 12:55 PM.

  16. #16
    Senior Member LuMax's Avatar
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    I spoke with a frame builder that I recently met at NAHBS. He said he can remove either the post or the entire boss, he can even repaint it for me when he's done. I will decide later, but for now, this is my temporary fix:


  17. #17
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Online Bicycle forums do let people express their compulsive obsessions on minutiae,

    often of little actual value.


    just leave them there

    those other things a in #4 are to screw into a particular situation where the fork is not steel.
    and the other portion on the fork has been prepared to thread them into it.

    Do seek Counseling .. OCD can be treated.
    Last edited by fietsbob; 04-08-13 at 01:07 PM.

  18. #18
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    They look cool - keep them.

    Nice tyres, BTW.

  19. #19
    Senior Member JReade's Avatar
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    I would use them to thread lights into, and shine out from under the rack.
    Jesse

  20. #20
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    It never hurts to have emergency backup, just run both disk brakes and v-brakes on the same wheel. http://www.amazon.com/Pyramid-Alloy-.../dp/B000AO7H16

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