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  1. #1
    bill nyecycles the sci guy's Avatar
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    how to mount rear rack to single centered hole on rear fork - or other option

    my wife has an older schwinn world, and wants to add a rear rack for her commute. after checking out her hookups, we noticed she doesn't have the traditional screw holes on either side of the seat post, or on the rear fork. instead it's just a single, centered hole on a cross bar between the rear fork (picture attached)

    is there an adapter or something so we can fit a rack? she ordered the Topeak Explorer rack.

    it was a fixie we converted to a single speed flywheel, so it doesn't have a read brake yet (just the front), is that where we would mount the rear brakes? If so, is there another option to mount the rack?

    thanks for any help or suggestions.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    many racks, in addition to having slots at the end for bolting on the two upper supports, will also have centerline boltholes for using a single stay down the center to your single hole on the frame.

    online images of the topeak rack seem to show they have opted to place the topeak logo in this location instead
    either find a rack that will mount center style
    or drill the one you've got
    or use 'p-clamps' to attach to your frame instead of using the pretapped mounting points

  3. #3
    bill nyecycles the sci guy's Avatar
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    as a newbie - could you point me in the direction of where to find said p clamp? is there a place online to order? or should i go to my LBS and inquire? i know i could google it myself, but sometimes its better for someone who knows what they're talking about to just straight up say THIS ONE! instead of poking around and hoping I pick the right thing! lol
    she's already ordered the rack from amazon, soo....

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
    as a newbie - could you point me in the direction of where to find said p clamp?
    Here you go: http://www.google.com/search?q=stainless+steel+p-clamp

  5. #5
    S'Cruzer pierce's Avatar
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    I believe what I'd do is, take the chrome straps off entirely, hammer them flat (to take out the 90 degree twist), then bend the last inch of each one 90 degrees down. reattach them to the rack so that the two 90 degree ends meet in the middle where that brake bridge is and bolt them to that hole, with the rack adjusted to be level on the bike. if you add a rear brake (whch uses that same hole), the brake goes on the rear facing side of the bridge, so have the 'straps' go over the brake and over the bridge, and secure them via the brake's locknut thats on the front-facing side of the bridge.

  6. #6
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    Most rack fitting are for 4-point fitting.
    You can buy 3-point brackets for rear racks that fit the seat-stay brake-bridge hole.
    Any workshop can cut out and bend a bit of steel to do that job.
    Tubus make superior quality P-clamp kits.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Ronno6's Avatar
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    Here is a more elegant solution:

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...adapter&_rdc=1

    Just get the correct clamp size to fit your seat post.

  8. #8
    Can'tre Member 3alarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
    as a newbie - could you point me in the direction of where to find said p clamp?
    is there a place online to order? or should i go to my LBS and inquire?
    Quote Originally Posted by Metacortex View Post
    Every Home Depot in the United States I've been in has them in the electrical section.
    They are used for running wiring and wiring harnesses.

    Most hardware stores have some version.

    They come in various sizes, so you need to measure the diameter of your stays, and buy
    ones that are small enough to tighten down securely on the stays.

    When i do this, it usually works out best if the tabs with the holes on the clamp are pointed
    toward the front of the bike, then a short nut, bolt, and lock washer inserts through the
    clamp tabs and the rack's mounting holes. You'll see what this means when you do it.

    there is almost always enough room to adjust position higher or lower on the stay to
    take care of leveling the rack prior to snugging down your clamps.

  9. #9
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    It might also be a good idea to put some small cut pieces of old innertube, or some helicopter tape underneath where you mount the clips to help protect the paint. Using rubber should also help with preventing loosening from vibration.

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    Quote Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
    as a newbie - could you point me in the direction of where to find said p clamp? is there a place online to order? or should i go to my LBS and inquire? i know i could google it myself, but sometimes its better for someone who knows what they're talking about to just straight up say THIS ONE! instead of poking around and hoping I pick the right thing! lol. she's already ordered the rack from amazon, soo....
    OP; Almost any hardware, home center or auto parts store will have the P clamps (technically called an Adele Clamp). Get the ones with the rubber or nylon sleeve to protect your paint and in the size that will be tight to the seat stay diameter (usually 1/2" will do). Pick up some 5mm x 10mm bolts, flat washers and nuts to fasten the P-clamp to the rack ears. If you lack metric tools, it would be good to also pickup a small set of metric combo (open/closed end) wrenches and a fold up set of hex wrenches. $20USD should cover the pain.
    /K

  11. #11
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    I just used the brackets that came on my rack and bent then into the shape I needed so I still had 2 brackets connecting to the single point on the frame. It worked great hauling my laptop in my pannier until I sold the bike.
    2009 Specialized S-Works Carbon Tricoss
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  12. #12
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    If the bike has a freewheel and is no longer a fixie, get a rear brake on it NOW.

    Blackburn and others make racks with provisions for a single center strut that bolts to the brake bridge. A 3/16" drill bit and a couple of M5 bolts will adapt that Topeak rack to a center bracket or, as recommended, you can attach it to the seatastays with P-clamps.

  13. #13
    bill nyecycles the sci guy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    If the bike has a freewheel and is no longer a fixie, get a rear brake on it NOW.
    It's on our to-do list, trust me!

    Everyone, thank you so much for all the ideas and input. I knew it was probably a simple solution, but thanks for giving me the specifics!
    Much obliged!

  14. #14
    Can'tre Member 3alarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Continuity View Post
    It might also be a good idea to put some small cut pieces of old innertube,
    or some helicopter tape underneath where you mount the clips to help protect the paint. Using rubber should also help with preventing loosening from vibration.
    What's so appealing about the current version of p clips made for electrical use
    is that the bans are usually stainless steel, and they come with a swell molded
    rubber doohickie that insulates whatever goes within the circle of the clip.

    I just did a couple of Blackburn racks with these last week.

    thus:

    p clip rack mounts 003.jpgp clip rack mounts 001.jpg

    and so:

    p clip rack mounts 004.jpgp clip rack mounts 002.jpg
    Last edited by 3alarmer; 04-09-13 at 11:04 AM.

  15. #15
    Senior Member JTGraphics's Avatar
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    I'd just get one of these I have one and works great as long as you have some seat post exposed. TransIt Seatpost Rack http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...17_-1___000000
    Last edited by JTGraphics; 04-09-13 at 11:04 AM.
    It may not be fancy but it gets me were I need to go.
    http://www.jtgraphics.net/cyclist_bicycles.htm

  16. #16
    Senior Member JReade's Avatar
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    Jesse

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