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Old 04-08-13, 08:22 PM   #1
the sci guy 
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how to mount rear rack to single centered hole on rear fork - or other option

my wife has an older schwinn world, and wants to add a rear rack for her commute. after checking out her hookups, we noticed she doesn't have the traditional screw holes on either side of the seat post, or on the rear fork. instead it's just a single, centered hole on a cross bar between the rear fork (picture attached)

is there an adapter or something so we can fit a rack? she ordered the Topeak Explorer rack.

it was a fixie we converted to a single speed flywheel, so it doesn't have a read brake yet (just the front), is that where we would mount the rear brakes? If so, is there another option to mount the rack?

thanks for any help or suggestions.
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Old 04-08-13, 08:34 PM   #2
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many racks, in addition to having slots at the end for bolting on the two upper supports, will also have centerline boltholes for using a single stay down the center to your single hole on the frame.

online images of the topeak rack seem to show they have opted to place the topeak logo in this location instead
either find a rack that will mount center style
or drill the one you've got
or use 'p-clamps' to attach to your frame instead of using the pretapped mounting points
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Old 04-08-13, 08:59 PM   #3
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as a newbie - could you point me in the direction of where to find said p clamp? is there a place online to order? or should i go to my LBS and inquire? i know i could google it myself, but sometimes its better for someone who knows what they're talking about to just straight up say THIS ONE! instead of poking around and hoping I pick the right thing! lol
she's already ordered the rack from amazon, soo....
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Old 04-08-13, 09:09 PM   #4
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as a newbie - could you point me in the direction of where to find said p clamp?
Here you go: http://www.google.com/search?q=stainless+steel+p-clamp
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Old 04-08-13, 10:47 PM   #5
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I believe what I'd do is, take the chrome straps off entirely, hammer them flat (to take out the 90 degree twist), then bend the last inch of each one 90 degrees down. reattach them to the rack so that the two 90 degree ends meet in the middle where that brake bridge is and bolt them to that hole, with the rack adjusted to be level on the bike. if you add a rear brake (whch uses that same hole), the brake goes on the rear facing side of the bridge, so have the 'straps' go over the brake and over the bridge, and secure them via the brake's locknut thats on the front-facing side of the bridge.
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Old 04-09-13, 03:49 AM   #6
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Most rack fitting are for 4-point fitting.
You can buy 3-point brackets for rear racks that fit the seat-stay brake-bridge hole.
Any workshop can cut out and bend a bit of steel to do that job.
Tubus make superior quality P-clamp kits.
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Old 04-09-13, 06:20 AM   #7
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Here is a more elegant solution:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...adapter&_rdc=1

Just get the correct clamp size to fit your seat post.
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Old 04-09-13, 06:30 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
as a newbie - could you point me in the direction of where to find said p clamp?
is there a place online to order? or should i go to my LBS and inquire?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metacortex View Post
Every Home Depot in the United States I've been in has them in the electrical section.
They are used for running wiring and wiring harnesses.

Most hardware stores have some version.

They come in various sizes, so you need to measure the diameter of your stays, and buy
ones that are small enough to tighten down securely on the stays.

When i do this, it usually works out best if the tabs with the holes on the clamp are pointed
toward the front of the bike, then a short nut, bolt, and lock washer inserts through the
clamp tabs and the rack's mounting holes. You'll see what this means when you do it.

there is almost always enough room to adjust position higher or lower on the stay to
take care of leveling the rack prior to snugging down your clamps.
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Old 04-09-13, 06:35 AM   #9
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It might also be a good idea to put some small cut pieces of old innertube, or some helicopter tape underneath where you mount the clips to help protect the paint. Using rubber should also help with preventing loosening from vibration.
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Old 04-09-13, 06:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the sci guy View Post
as a newbie - could you point me in the direction of where to find said p clamp? is there a place online to order? or should i go to my LBS and inquire? i know i could google it myself, but sometimes its better for someone who knows what they're talking about to just straight up say THIS ONE! instead of poking around and hoping I pick the right thing! lol. she's already ordered the rack from amazon, soo....
OP; Almost any hardware, home center or auto parts store will have the P clamps (technically called an Adele Clamp). Get the ones with the rubber or nylon sleeve to protect your paint and in the size that will be tight to the seat stay diameter (usually 1/2" will do). Pick up some 5mm x 10mm bolts, flat washers and nuts to fasten the P-clamp to the rack ears. If you lack metric tools, it would be good to also pickup a small set of metric combo (open/closed end) wrenches and a fold up set of hex wrenches. $20USD should cover the pain.
/K
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Old 04-09-13, 10:17 AM   #11
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I just used the brackets that came on my rack and bent then into the shape I needed so I still had 2 brackets connecting to the single point on the frame. It worked great hauling my laptop in my pannier until I sold the bike.
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Old 04-09-13, 10:36 AM   #12
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If the bike has a freewheel and is no longer a fixie, get a rear brake on it NOW.

Blackburn and others make racks with provisions for a single center strut that bolts to the brake bridge. A 3/16" drill bit and a couple of M5 bolts will adapt that Topeak rack to a center bracket or, as recommended, you can attach it to the seatastays with P-clamps.
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Old 04-09-13, 10:43 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
If the bike has a freewheel and is no longer a fixie, get a rear brake on it NOW.
It's on our to-do list, trust me!

Everyone, thank you so much for all the ideas and input. I knew it was probably a simple solution, but thanks for giving me the specifics!
Much obliged!
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Old 04-09-13, 10:53 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Continuity View Post
It might also be a good idea to put some small cut pieces of old innertube,
or some helicopter tape underneath where you mount the clips to help protect the paint. Using rubber should also help with preventing loosening from vibration.
What's so appealing about the current version of p clips made for electrical use
is that the bans are usually stainless steel, and they come with a swell molded
rubber doohickie that insulates whatever goes within the circle of the clip.

I just did a couple of Blackburn racks with these last week.

thus:



and so:

Attached Images
File Type: jpg p clip rack mounts 001.jpg (83.0 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg p clip rack mounts 003.jpg (101.1 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg p clip rack mounts 002.jpg (74.0 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg p clip rack mounts 004.jpg (94.2 KB, 14 views)

Last edited by 3alarmer; 04-09-13 at 11:04 AM.
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Old 04-09-13, 11:01 AM   #15
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I'd just get one of these I have one and works great as long as you have some seat post exposed. TransIt Seatpost Rack http://www.performancebike.com/bikes...17_-1___000000
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Old 04-09-13, 11:16 AM   #16
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