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  1. #1
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    BB7 Discs vs. XT V-brakes

    Ive been running XT V-brakes with XT levers for years and I have always been happy with them. Last weekend I went for a ride with about 10 water crossings, some of them were pretty mossy. I found myself with almost no front brake for a while until they dried out.

    This go me thinking of putting a disc on the front.

    My fork is rated for a 210mm rotor.

    I really like my XT levers.

    How will a BB7 with a 200mm rotor, with an XT brake lever compare to my XT V-brakes?

    I dont want to spend the $$$ on a new hub/wheel caliper and rotor if its not going to be a noticeable difference...

  2. #2
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Dry performance should be similar, wet performance should be better of course.

    What pads are on your V-brakes? Putting some Kool Stop salmon pads on might improve braking almost as much as the discs. In most cases it is my opinion that discs are unnecessary but if you're doing mountain biking in the wet I think you'll be very happy if you switch.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  3. #3
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    I have the black Kool Stops now. And am running ceramic coated rims. They stop REAL well. I dont ride wet trails all that often, but a few times a year...

  4. #4
    Jack of all trades anixi's Avatar
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    You don't "need" a 200 up front, IMO, because the front brake isn't the primary brake going down hill (endos, etc are a risk) so I would put a 160 up front and rear. You'll not need anything more unless you're a clydesdale. In my case, dry performance was noticeably better with disc. I won't go back to V-brakes on an MTB. BTW, a 200 will be prone to warping a lot more than a 160, just physics...
    Put me back on my bike! -- Tom Simpson

  5. #5
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    How will a BB7 with a 200mm rotor, with an XT brake lever compare to my XT V-brakes?
    well the rims are a very large disc, .. but it does continuously expose itself to muck with every botom rotation.

    discs being hub centered are higher off the ground..


    I own a bb7 set, but on a 406/20" wheel 160 rotor..

    none have XT V brakes ..

    I do like my Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes. [26" wheels]
    Last edited by fietsbob; 04-09-13 at 01:44 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
    ...I do like my Magura HS33 hydraulic rim brakes...
    Haven't they been notorious for crushing rims as if they're made of cheap pot-metal?

    What's the routine for preventing this with those powerful hydro rim brakes - is it just a question of making sure they're setup correctly, or just not pulling on them too hard, and presumably by making sure that you're using a set of burly rims?

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the replys. I am about 230lbs and my bike doesnt have disc tabs on the back, so I will most likely stick with just a front disc.

  8. #8
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    Haven't they been notorious for crushing rims as if they're made of cheap pot-metal?

    What's the routine for preventing this with those powerful hydro rim brakes - is it just a question of making sure they're setup correctly, or just not pulling on them too hard, and presumably by making sure that you're using a set of burly rims?
    Isn't Internet rumors something to build a belief system around..?

    And , the blame shifting factor; just ignoring the Rim wear, until its too thin to contain the pressure from within,
    and then , blaming the brakes ,rather than taking responsibility yourself, for not thinking, of rim wear. ...

  9. #9
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    Oh no, don't get me wrong - I'd *love* me a set of those Magura hydros!

    It's just that the head wrench at one of my local LBSes said to me when I went in to see if they had any longer canti mount bolts to install my Magura brake booster (I'm using it on my standard DX cantis - I think it looks great ) that they had that reputation.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by anixi View Post
    because the front brake isn't the primary brake going down hill (endos, etc are a risk)
    The statement above is a common misconception, but your front brake should still be the primary brake going down hill. If there is a risk of an endo the rider should move their weight back, getting off the saddle if necessary. Lower your saddle if this presents a challenge. Have been lucky enough to ride with some experienced riders here in BC who put me straight on a lot of this stuff.

    That said I agree that a 200mm rotor is overkill here if V-brakes were previously working fine in the dry.

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