old 7 speed hub + 9 speed cassette
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old 7 speed hub + 9 speed cassette
Ive got an old 105 hub laced to a matrix iso c ii, that is spaced for 7 speeds. I recently overhauled another rear hub and discovered that without the freehub and axel, that it is just a hub,
Im wondering If I can transplant a 9 speed freehub onto this older hub, I ask because I have a tightttt budget and have most parts available, trying to avoid buying a new rear wheel.
Im wondering If I can transplant a 9 speed freehub onto this older hub, I ask because I have a tightttt budget and have most parts available, trying to avoid buying a new rear wheel.
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Yeah - with very few exceptions, a Shimano 8 to 10 speed freehub can be swapped onto a Shimano hub currently running a 7 speed freehub.
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I've done it to a FH6400 freehub (old ultegra 600 tricolor gruppo). I believe the freehub anchor bolt (8 or 10mm allen) still works and fits the recess lip inside the fh body correctly. Their is a small variance (mm scale) in extension, and I recommend you add a 3mm axle spacer on the non-drive side, and you'll need to respace your rear axle nuts to even out the reduced excess axle exposed on each end. I did this by converting a 126mm hub to 130mm. You might get away with just adding the new freehub body, but to keep the hub 126mm (and not 127.5) you'd have to possibly replace a nut and washer and mess with a very acute, asymmetric dish on the rear wheel. I was able to actually make the dish slightly more symmetric going to 130mm spacing by adding the right amount of gap to the non-drive side. (yeah, this means a slight tweak to dish on the rear wheel as well).
Ideally, if you have a source for 10mm rear axles, you might swap out the 135mm to a 140mm or 141mm to get back the 5mm or so of protruding axle ends and if you have newer OEM QR skewers for road, that would be great too, but there's usually enough thread on both axle and QR skewers for this 4mm modification.
Ideally, if you have a source for 10mm rear axles, you might swap out the 135mm to a 140mm or 141mm to get back the 5mm or so of protruding axle ends and if you have newer OEM QR skewers for road, that would be great too, but there's usually enough thread on both axle and QR skewers for this 4mm modification.
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If you have a budgetary concern, why do you wish to upgrade to 9speeds? 9speed chains and cassettes are much more expensive than 7spd ones. is there something wrong with the original 7spd freehub body?
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If you need an old Shimano hub with a 7-speed freehub body on it...got one lying around I don't mind getting rid of...
=8-)
=8-)
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5000+ wheels built since 1984...
Disclaimer:
1. I do not claim to be an expert in bicycle mechanics despite my experience.
2. I like anyone will comment in other areas.
3. I do not own the preexisting concepts of DISH and ERD.
4. I will provide information as I always have to others that I believe will help them protect themselves from unscrupulous mechanics.
5. My all time favorite book is:
Kahane, Howard. Logic and Contemporary Rhetoric: The Use of Reason in Everyday Life
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I really don't find that to be all that big of a deal anymore. 6-7-8 speed chains are around 10 dollars and I can get 9 speed chains at my local dept store for 16.99. The cassettes aren't that much differently priced either.
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well i made the switch, although I now need a new axel and after cleaning out the freehub I noticed heavy pitting on the inside of the bearing casing or whatever its called. and the axel I bastardized is also pitted heavily, resulting in a soothing grinding noise. even after a nice new coat of grease.
New axel here I come.
New axel here I come.
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If it were me, I'd make a cheap and easy upgrade... use 8 of the 9 cogs of the cassette. They'll fit on the 7 speed freehub without modification. (No need to redish, no need to respace the frame from 126mm to 130mm) and it'll work with a 9 speed shifter. (The last "click" will be locked out by the limit screws.) If you insist on having 9 speeds, do the same thing but use 9 of a 10 speed cassette with 10 speed shifters.
#12
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Check this thread.... about half way down the focus narrows even more.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/837650-Axle-spacers-or-offset-rear-wheel?highlight=ksisler
PM if you have questions specific to it
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php/837650-Axle-spacers-or-offset-rear-wheel?highlight=ksisler
PM if you have questions specific to it
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Compatible freehubs, although they are out there, are harder to find and always more expensive than regular Shimano ones.
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AFAIK there are two Shimano freehub spline patterns: the original one with an external spline on the hub, and a later one (that I don't think was adopted wholesale) that has a larger internal spline in the hub.
#15
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the old freehub driver used the small cog to hold down the rest, screwed on tight as you pedaled.
current drivers all the cogs are splined, and the lockring uses an inside thread on the freehub body.
OH and your Frame has to be wider 7 to 8 was 126 to 130, or 135.. (MTB)
current drivers all the cogs are splined, and the lockring uses an inside thread on the freehub body.
OH and your Frame has to be wider 7 to 8 was 126 to 130, or 135.. (MTB)