N.C. Cable guy wannabe
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N.C. Cable guy wannabe
I'm tired of buying brake and shifter cables that are always way too long or an inch too short. I'd like to be able to buy cable by the roll and tools to crimp on the ends - BOTH ends. I can't seem to find a tool that will crimp on a button at the brake lever end. Its got to be out there somewhere. Thanks!
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Those "buttons" on brake and shift cables are molded (cast) in place, not crimped. If you want to make your own, get a lead melting pot and some appropriate molds of the end fitting
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The issue you'll run across is that the thing on the lever end of both brake and shifter cables isn't crimped on, it's made of some kind of solder. I doubt anything you can crimp on will a) fit in a brake or shift lever's cable socket or b) withstand the kind of force a brake cable sees.
#4
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The ends are usually Zinc Castings.. has to be a specific fraying of the cable
where the cable acts like tree roots in the casting..
There have been set screw fixed cable ends for some purposes..
So what kind of recumbent or tandem do you have that the cables for tandems are too short for?
where the cable acts like tree roots in the casting..
There have been set screw fixed cable ends for some purposes..
So what kind of recumbent or tandem do you have that the cables for tandems are too short for?
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Thanks for the conventional wisdom. I'm just too thick-headed to think that this can't be done, or that someone else hasn't already done it. Thanks again.
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Thanks Bob. I've seen the "straddle ends" with set screw. They come in bags of 10 for a few bucks. Some suggest replacing the set screw with a bolt. Its the only solution I've seen so far.
I work on all kinds of bikes. Mostly beach cruisers with crazy long handlebars. I like the idea of making any length I want, when I want. Could be a pipe dream...
I work on all kinds of bikes. Mostly beach cruisers with crazy long handlebars. I like the idea of making any length I want, when I want. Could be a pipe dream...
Last edited by filthyfingers; 04-16-13 at 10:51 AM.
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It's a lot of effort for each cable, though, I only considered it because a) it would make the brakes more adjustable and b) I got bored on a very long train journey. It might, however, work the way you want, as I suspect it might be possible to make things like it that would fit in a brake lever. I've seen cantilever and U-brakes where the brake cable was held into the yoke with a grub screw, so clamping force shouldn't be a problem. Shift cables would still be a challenge, though, although the classic Sturmey-Archer shift cable had a crimped fitting on one end, so crimping might be an option that could withstand the smaller forces on a shift cable
Last edited by Airburst; 04-16-13 at 11:04 AM.
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Do a search on "cable knarps" (really!) for one way to put brake-compatible ends on cables. Would I use them on MY brakes? NO. But they are available.
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While a crimped and soldered end may be OK for a gear cable, it's totally inadequate for a brake cable which needs more strength.
The end of any decent brake cable is molded on, but much more important, the wire's end is first frayed apart and formed into a floret, where the wires are spread and the tips turned back in. (looks like a tulip when done right) The floret is then filled with solder when the head is molded, and so the resulting head is stronger than the wire, and cannot be pulled off.
If you want to see how this done, find an elevator mechanic and ask to tag along when he goes on a job reshackling the cables.
The end of any decent brake cable is molded on, but much more important, the wire's end is first frayed apart and formed into a floret, where the wires are spread and the tips turned back in. (looks like a tulip when done right) The floret is then filled with solder when the head is molded, and so the resulting head is stronger than the wire, and cannot be pulled off.
If you want to see how this done, find an elevator mechanic and ask to tag along when he goes on a job reshackling the cables.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 04-16-13 at 06:32 PM.
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1st question, is.. the bike is that big that a stock RD cable is too short sometimes???
If you change cables each two weeks then you really have a problem (in the head just in head), if you change cables each two months then you have a problem as well, if you change cables 2 times per year, would say its ok but cables generally last 1 or 2 years, if you shift like crazy maniac truck driver in a 24 speed 18 wheeler then good luck, you have to change that habit
If you change cables each two weeks then you really have a problem (in the head just in head), if you change cables each two months then you have a problem as well, if you change cables 2 times per year, would say its ok but cables generally last 1 or 2 years, if you shift like crazy maniac truck driver in a 24 speed 18 wheeler then good luck, you have to change that habit
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had the same idea with the throttle cable on my motorcyle. took the cable to a harley place and they said "sure, no problem." they soldered or cast a piece of lead on there that looked like the real thing. took it home, put it on, pulled once and ka-flooy. waste of time and money. i think there may be more to it than meets the eye. good luck.
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One way to ensure having the right size cables on hand is to measure the length of cables that you know fit and then order cables by length from retailers such as Bikeman. https://www.bikeman.com/Derailleur_Cable.html
Two of my recumbent bikes have cable needs that go beyond 'standard' or 'tandem length' cables.
Two of my recumbent bikes have cable needs that go beyond 'standard' or 'tandem length' cables.
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had the same idea with the throttle cable on my motorcyle. took the cable to a harley place and they said "sure, no problem." they soldered or cast a piece of lead on there that looked like the real thing. took it home, put it on, pulled once and ka-flooy. waste of time and money. i think there may be more to it than meets the eye. good luck.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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1st question, is.. the bike is that big that a stock RD cable is too short sometimes???
If you change cables each two weeks then you really have a problem (in the head just in head), if you change cables each two months then you have a problem as well, if you change cables 2 times per year, would say its ok but cables generally last 1 or 2 years, if you shift like crazy maniac truck driver in a 24 speed 18 wheeler then good luck, you have to change that habit
If you change cables each two weeks then you really have a problem (in the head just in head), if you change cables each two months then you have a problem as well, if you change cables 2 times per year, would say its ok but cables generally last 1 or 2 years, if you shift like crazy maniac truck driver in a 24 speed 18 wheeler then good luck, you have to change that habit
Thanks for all the input. I may just need to stock up on different sizes. Sure would like to make my own though.
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I see... look, jagwire has a super extra long cable that is like 4445mm in length, you need to find who has that and buy a bulk box and done with the problem.
Check the website for the parts numbers.
Good luck
Check the website for the parts numbers.
Good luck