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N.C. Cable guy wannabe

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Old 04-16-13, 10:20 AM
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N.C. Cable guy wannabe

I'm tired of buying brake and shifter cables that are always way too long or an inch too short. I'd like to be able to buy cable by the roll and tools to crimp on the ends - BOTH ends. I can't seem to find a tool that will crimp on a button at the brake lever end. Its got to be out there somewhere. Thanks!
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Old 04-16-13, 10:25 AM
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Those "buttons" on brake and shift cables are molded (cast) in place, not crimped. If you want to make your own, get a lead melting pot and some appropriate molds of the end fitting
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Old 04-16-13, 10:25 AM
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The issue you'll run across is that the thing on the lever end of both brake and shifter cables isn't crimped on, it's made of some kind of solder. I doubt anything you can crimp on will a) fit in a brake or shift lever's cable socket or b) withstand the kind of force a brake cable sees.
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Old 04-16-13, 10:36 AM
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The ends are usually Zinc Castings.. has to be a specific fraying of the cable

where the cable acts like tree roots in the casting..

There have been set screw fixed cable ends for some purposes..


So what kind of recumbent or tandem do you have that the cables for tandems are too short for?
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Old 04-16-13, 10:39 AM
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Thanks for the conventional wisdom. I'm just too thick-headed to think that this can't be done, or that someone else hasn't already done it. Thanks again.
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Old 04-16-13, 10:44 AM
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Thanks Bob. I've seen the "straddle ends" with set screw. They come in bags of 10 for a few bucks. Some suggest replacing the set screw with a bolt. Its the only solution I've seen so far.

I work on all kinds of bikes. Mostly beach cruisers with crazy long handlebars. I like the idea of making any length I want, when I want. Could be a pipe dream...

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Old 04-16-13, 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by filthyfingers
Thanks for the conventional wisdom. I'm just too thick-headed to think that this can't be done, or that someone else hasn't already done it. Thanks again.
Well, I've used solderless cable nipples that clamp onto the cable with a screw to rig up cables for a Sturmey-Archer drum brake set, but they're pretty big things. I got curious to see how small I could actually make something like that, though, because I have access to a lathe and I have a front and rear set of Weinmann centrepull brakes that have soldered nipples on both ends of the straddle cables, meaning I can't adjust the mechanical advantage of them like I would with a set of cantilevers. The basic idea is a steel button-type thing, possibly made from the head of an allen-headed bolt, with a hole drilled and tapped in it for a grub screw where the shank of the bolt used to be and another hole drilled in it from the side for the cable. Last time I thought about it, I reckoned I could make one of those small enough to fit the arm on a centrepull brake.

It's a lot of effort for each cable, though, I only considered it because a) it would make the brakes more adjustable and b) I got bored on a very long train journey. It might, however, work the way you want, as I suspect it might be possible to make things like it that would fit in a brake lever. I've seen cantilever and U-brakes where the brake cable was held into the yoke with a grub screw, so clamping force shouldn't be a problem. Shift cables would still be a challenge, though, although the classic Sturmey-Archer shift cable had a crimped fitting on one end, so crimping might be an option that could withstand the smaller forces on a shift cable

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Old 04-16-13, 11:04 AM
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Do a search on "cable knarps" (really!) for one way to put brake-compatible ends on cables. Would I use them on MY brakes? NO. But they are available.
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Old 04-16-13, 11:11 AM
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While a crimped and soldered end may be OK for a gear cable, it's totally inadequate for a brake cable which needs more strength.

The end of any decent brake cable is molded on, but much more important, the wire's end is first frayed apart and formed into a floret, where the wires are spread and the tips turned back in. (looks like a tulip when done right) The floret is then filled with solder when the head is molded, and so the resulting head is stronger than the wire, and cannot be pulled off.

If you want to see how this done, find an elevator mechanic and ask to tag along when he goes on a job reshackling the cables.
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Old 04-16-13, 06:25 PM
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1st question, is.. the bike is that big that a stock RD cable is too short sometimes???

If you change cables each two weeks then you really have a problem (in the head just in head), if you change cables each two months then you have a problem as well, if you change cables 2 times per year, would say its ok but cables generally last 1 or 2 years, if you shift like crazy maniac truck driver in a 24 speed 18 wheeler then good luck, you have to change that habit
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Old 04-16-13, 06:32 PM
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had the same idea with the throttle cable on my motorcyle. took the cable to a harley place and they said "sure, no problem." they soldered or cast a piece of lead on there that looked like the real thing. took it home, put it on, pulled once and ka-flooy. waste of time and money. i think there may be more to it than meets the eye. good luck.
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Old 04-16-13, 07:16 PM
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One way to ensure having the right size cables on hand is to measure the length of cables that you know fit and then order cables by length from retailers such as Bikeman. https://www.bikeman.com/Derailleur_Cable.html

Two of my recumbent bikes have cable needs that go beyond 'standard' or 'tandem length' cables.
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Old 04-16-13, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan
had the same idea with the throttle cable on my motorcyle. took the cable to a harley place and they said "sure, no problem." they soldered or cast a piece of lead on there that looked like the real thing. took it home, put it on, pulled once and ka-flooy. waste of time and money. i think there may be more to it than meets the eye. good luck.
Earlier I described how a floret is made and the head is molded around and through it. I've been looking for pictures and finally found something that shows the concept here (scroll down to page 16). Decent quality bike brake cables are made in a similar way though much smaller, and the head pull off strength is tested and is stronger than the wire.
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Old 04-17-13, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by ultraman6970
1st question, is.. the bike is that big that a stock RD cable is too short sometimes???

If you change cables each two weeks then you really have a problem (in the head just in head), if you change cables each two months then you have a problem as well, if you change cables 2 times per year, would say its ok but cables generally last 1 or 2 years, if you shift like crazy maniac truck driver in a 24 speed 18 wheeler then good luck, you have to change that habit
Here at the beach our roads are sandy and salty. Most of the bikes I bring back to life have been out in the elements way too long. I'm currently working on a 200? Specialized Expedition Elite with longhorn bars. The RD cable used was a 2300mm - I think. Just a bit too short. I hate when that happens. I own 4 other bikes including 2 electrics. When I can't fit the car in the garage, I sell them off and start over.

Thanks for all the input. I may just need to stock up on different sizes. Sure would like to make my own though.
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Old 04-17-13, 06:43 PM
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I see... look, jagwire has a super extra long cable that is like 4445mm in length, you need to find who has that and buy a bulk box and done with the problem.

Check the website for the parts numbers.

Good luck
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