wheels steel/aluminum
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wheels steel/aluminum
Hey folks: Just bought a cro-mo beater in good shape with Shim 600 comps. Unfortunately it has steel wheels. They are in excellent shape. I know they are heavier but what else is bad about steel. Worth swapping out? The bike only cost 40.00. Thanks Charlie
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Originally Posted by balto charlie
Hey folks: Just bought a cro-mo beater in good shape with Shim 600 comps. Unfortunately it has steel wheels. They are in excellent shape. I know they are heavier but what else is bad about steel. Worth swapping out? The bike only cost 40.00. Thanks Charlie
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Delayed braking in the wet - they dont work until the water has been wiped off, and then dont work too well. That is no problem if you dont ride in wet weather, and give a quick shot to the brakes after you ride through a puddle.
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Originally Posted by seely
Ultegra 600 with steel wheels? That seems really odd to me.
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Originally Posted by sydney
If they are steel, I'd get rid of them. But try a magnet on them first.
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Don't just toss the wheels out.
They may have nice hubs that can be re-built with new AL rims and SS spokes cheaper than you can buy a new wheelset for.
Enjoy
They may have nice hubs that can be re-built with new AL rims and SS spokes cheaper than you can buy a new wheelset for.
Enjoy
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More news on the wheels: As previously stated wheels are steel
Hubs:rear RB shimano MFZ012 and front: Sovos Are these worth building up??? Both have Sovos QR skewers.
Wheels were definetly replacements as the rear spacing is 126 and rear wheel is set up with a 5 speed.
Brakes and FD are shim 600 and rear deraileur is suntour VX, Suntour bar end shifters, crank is french specialites TA(?)
Frame is repainted by Performance painters, no decals but decent lug work Serial# SK6040
Any input on this bike appreciated. How does one determine frame identity?
Hubs:rear RB shimano MFZ012 and front: Sovos Are these worth building up??? Both have Sovos QR skewers.
Wheels were definetly replacements as the rear spacing is 126 and rear wheel is set up with a 5 speed.
Brakes and FD are shim 600 and rear deraileur is suntour VX, Suntour bar end shifters, crank is french specialites TA(?)
Frame is repainted by Performance painters, no decals but decent lug work Serial# SK6040
Any input on this bike appreciated. How does one determine frame identity?
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I just want to mention again about the braking in the rain. Steel wheels are VERY bad for stopping in the rain. If you get caught out on the bike in the rain, it's almost as if they don't stop at all. They just don't do much at all. If you are in a panic stop situation they won't stop you in time. You need to have that in mind all the time if you are in the rain.
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With those hubs, I would just buy a new set wheels.
As the frame has been repainted, unless there is some badging somewhere, or some one recognises the lug work or ser # it will be really hard to figure out what it is. Often the manufacturers can't even tell yo what a bike is with their own serial numbers.
As the frame has been repainted, unless there is some badging somewhere, or some one recognises the lug work or ser # it will be really hard to figure out what it is. Often the manufacturers can't even tell yo what a bike is with their own serial numbers.
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Originally Posted by Rev.Chuck
With those hubs, I would just buy a new set wheels.
As the frame has been repainted, unless there is some badging somewhere, or some one recognises the lug work or ser # it will be really hard to figure out what it is. Often the manufacturers can't even tell yo what a bike is with their own serial numbers.
As the frame has been repainted, unless there is some badging somewhere, or some one recognises the lug work or ser # it will be really hard to figure out what it is. Often the manufacturers can't even tell yo what a bike is with their own serial numbers.
My LBS will sell you new aluminum wheels at the same price it will respoke the old hubs onto another rim. If you buy new rims the price is a little higher then going with the new wheels.
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I've got steel wheels on my fixed gear, though I generally dont use the brake much...
FWIW, they are pretty bulletproof, and the 27x1 1/4 tire definitly helps in the rim cushioning area.
FWIW, they are pretty bulletproof, and the 27x1 1/4 tire definitly helps in the rim cushioning area.
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If you're bike is $40.00, don't upgrade to alloy wheels, what's the point?
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"If you're bike is $40.00, don't upgrade to alloy wheels, what's the point?"
If you can get a deal like that for $40, that is all the more reason to upgrade some stuff to make the bike better or more reliable. Just like if someone gave you a bike but the tire were rotted out, you would still put some new, possibly cheap, rubber on there. For $100 or so charlie should be able to make his bike lighter, safer and stronger.
If you can get a deal like that for $40, that is all the more reason to upgrade some stuff to make the bike better or more reliable. Just like if someone gave you a bike but the tire were rotted out, you would still put some new, possibly cheap, rubber on there. For $100 or so charlie should be able to make his bike lighter, safer and stronger.
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What something is worth is really subjective. The exact same thing has a different value to each person. It depends on the situation. All the suggestions are good.
If Charlie is not going to ride in the rain and just wants a bike to leave locked up out side that is not too costly, he is all set right now.
If the intent is to own a beater bike for bad weather, then he really needs to follow Rev. Chuck's advice for safety. A beater bike with new wheels and 600 components could be a pretty nice bike. Paying $140 bucks for that may be OK for him. It may perform pretty well. An entry level road bike is way over $400, even thought you can get a MTB for half that.
If it's just an interesting bike to add to the stable, then maybe it should go. It is possible to find another bike with aluminum wheels.
The answer is " It depends on what you're looking for." What are you going to do with it Charlie?
If Charlie is not going to ride in the rain and just wants a bike to leave locked up out side that is not too costly, he is all set right now.
If the intent is to own a beater bike for bad weather, then he really needs to follow Rev. Chuck's advice for safety. A beater bike with new wheels and 600 components could be a pretty nice bike. Paying $140 bucks for that may be OK for him. It may perform pretty well. An entry level road bike is way over $400, even thought you can get a MTB for half that.
If it's just an interesting bike to add to the stable, then maybe it should go. It is possible to find another bike with aluminum wheels.
The answer is " It depends on what you're looking for." What are you going to do with it Charlie?
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Nashbar sells a cheap 700C wheelset or two:
freewheel wheelset for $40 and cassette wheelset with shimano hubs for $40.
Try posting a wanted ad on Baltimore or DC craigslists. I've had good luck with those.
freewheel wheelset for $40 and cassette wheelset with shimano hubs for $40.
Try posting a wanted ad on Baltimore or DC craigslists. I've had good luck with those.
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Hey Guys thanks for the info. I'll probably use the bike as a beater commuter. I commute most days so having a safe and smooth ride that's not's so nice looking is what I'm seeking. I currently have an 80's Gary Fisher Mnt bike that has served me well for the last few years and it needs a rebuild. So I guess I'll toss the steel wheels and hunt for a deal on aluminum. Mox I'll check Craigs and other local groups for them. I'll see you guys when I rebuild the Fisher. Thanks again, Charlie