toeing in brakes and crank shaft qs... thx!
02-16-05, 07:47 PM
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toeing in brakes and crank shaft qs... thx!
hey all,
after riding around in this last nyc snowstorm i did in my rear brakes a touch; somehow, my right rear pad (i have centerpull cantilever on surly crosscheck) wore out totally in the toe... I went into a bike shop and the dude recommended I just "toe in" the back!? which i did, and it works, but it still squeaks... my question is, is this a good idea?
also, my second question is about the crankarm (i'm sorta a novice at this stuff).. recently when i've started pedaling i can feel clicking (not deraillur, like something with the crank shaft). however trying to tighten it seemed like it was fully tight.. any ideas?
after riding around in this last nyc snowstorm i did in my rear brakes a touch; somehow, my right rear pad (i have centerpull cantilever on surly crosscheck) wore out totally in the toe... I went into a bike shop and the dude recommended I just "toe in" the back!? which i did, and it works, but it still squeaks... my question is, is this a good idea?
also, my second question is about the crankarm (i'm sorta a novice at this stuff).. recently when i've started pedaling i can feel clicking (not deraillur, like something with the crank shaft). however trying to tighten it seemed like it was fully tight.. any ideas?
02-16-05, 08:04 PM
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It is time to rplace the brake pads, but since you hardly use the back brake, this temporary fix will do till you get to a bike shop that can sell new brake pads.
The click is is probably in the bottom bracket or pedal bearings. If you have a cartridge BB it could be fixed by putting grease on the retaining cups before installing them (the noise is usually a squeak rather than a click). Before you get into drastic disassembly check that the crank isnt striking the end of the front derailler cable as it passes.
Look in the Park Tool site for instructions
https://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml
The click is is probably in the bottom bracket or pedal bearings. If you have a cartridge BB it could be fixed by putting grease on the retaining cups before installing them (the noise is usually a squeak rather than a click). Before you get into drastic disassembly check that the crank isnt striking the end of the front derailler cable as it passes.
Look in the Park Tool site for instructions
https://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQindex.shtml
02-16-05, 08:12 PM
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NOTHING takes the squeak out of brakes 100% of the time. Here's what I usually do:
1. Take a fingernail emery board and dress up the pad. That will do the job most of the time and it's both fast and cheap.
2. toe in the pad.
3. Clean off the brakeing surface of the rim with lacquer thinner.
4. Check how solidly the brake is mounted on the frame.
5. Try different brake pads.
6. Since toeing the pads in didn't work, try toe out.
7. Clean the entire rim with fine grit sandpaper.
8. Try a different brake caliper or different canty arches.
If you brought your bike to me with that crank complaint, the first thing that I would do would be to put a torque wrench on the crank bolts. The torque spec for those is around 30 to 35 ft/lbs and, in my experience. most guys don't get there when left to their own judgement. If they are too loose, the crank arm will gradually loosen up and eventually fall off. Before it falls off, however, it will do it's best to turn the square hole into a round one and will never stay tight after that no matter what you do.
1. Take a fingernail emery board and dress up the pad. That will do the job most of the time and it's both fast and cheap.
2. toe in the pad.
3. Clean off the brakeing surface of the rim with lacquer thinner.
4. Check how solidly the brake is mounted on the frame.
5. Try different brake pads.
6. Since toeing the pads in didn't work, try toe out.
7. Clean the entire rim with fine grit sandpaper.
8. Try a different brake caliper or different canty arches.
If you brought your bike to me with that crank complaint, the first thing that I would do would be to put a torque wrench on the crank bolts. The torque spec for those is around 30 to 35 ft/lbs and, in my experience. most guys don't get there when left to their own judgement. If they are too loose, the crank arm will gradually loosen up and eventually fall off. Before it falls off, however, it will do it's best to turn the square hole into a round one and will never stay tight after that no matter what you do.
