cynepmen

Hi guys! This is my first thread in this forum,i hope i find nice people.So for my problem.Yestarday i recieved a frame from a guy from my other forum in my country,and the frame supposed to come with head cups.The frame is dartmoor quinnie 2011 with integrated cups.I recieved a bearings.When i place em on the frame,i feel i shouldn't continue,i feel something is wrong. To show you what am i talking about i made a video.There you go: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E77FU7lAQ2g .Its like the black "cane creek" thing is not right for this frame.The guy who selled me it,sayed evertything is just fine.Help me please!

unterhausen

usually when this happens someone has put the wrong cup on the wrong end of the headtube, but I'm not familiar enough with those parts to say if that's the case here.

Andrew R Stewart 

Many of the bike brands that use this style of bearing/head set will have a top cap (the CC black curved piece) that is unique to their bike. Trek does this. This top cap will "mate" with the head tube end in a fashion that a second party cap wouldn't. I would have liked to see a side view with the "rubber" seal (the black ring that goes around the bearing and would sit below the cap) to see if it will fill the space, which way it goes is found by trying both ways. It is possible that the seal will fill the otherwise open space well enough. Remember that the top cap and centering compression ring will move down into/onto the bearing slightly when you place a fork in the bearing and preload the headset with the top bolt (and cap above the stem). How does the lower bearing and fork crown fit look? Have you sent your video clip to the seller for their insight? Andy.

unterhausen

moved this here from framebuilding. Dunno if the OP will be back or not

onespeedbiker

From what I could find you frame takes a Campy spec Integrated style 45/45 ACB (Angular Contact Bearing) headset. These are the installation instructions from Park Tool. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...t-standards#is. This is a photo of the OEM headset made by Dartmoor for your frame.

Camilo

First of all, the "Cups" are already in the frame - it is an integrated headset which means the cups are part of the head tube.

Look at this PDF: https://www.canecreek.com/resources/p...structions.pdf

The parts you're handling in the video are:

the upper bearing (#5 in the instructions) - it looks to me like it's the correct one if it seats neatly into the headtube integrated cup.

the compression ring (#7). it also looks correct to me

the rubber ring - I really don't know if that's correct. It doesn't look like it is, too big.

The upper bearing cover (#4). It looks to me like you have the wrong bearing cover. It should cover the compression ring and almost (but not quite) seat down onto the frame's head tube. It could be that the cover is correct, but the rubber ring you have is supposed to seat into the bearing cover, but if that's the case, the one you have is the wrong one and too big for that.

Does that make sense in terms of what you have and how it fits together?

Unfortunately, the only thing I can suggest for a sure thing is to just get a new integrated headset. Just make sure that you know which size to get for that frame.

Maybe some others will have better suggestions.

onespeedbiker

It looks to me as if someone threw together some headset parts from different headsets. First there is no compression ring seal #8 in the PDF and the compression ring is sitting too high to allow the dust cover to properly seat; I agree the dust cover looks wrong..

Camilo

That was my thought too. It would be nice to see all the parts that the OP was given - maybe there's something he put in the wrong place. I once had an FSA headset that had a two piece cone/top/dust cap. A thin one and the cone-shaped one that fit with it. The cone cap wouldn't work without the other. I've never seen one like that. That's what I thought when I saw how the OP's cone cap fit.

But I have no idea is that's what's actually going on, and even if it were, the hassle of figuring it out and finding the part isn't worth it. That's why, if it were me, I'd probably not spend a lot of time "figuring it out" and would just cut my time losses and buy a new, inexpensive-ish headset for $40. I'd keep the old bearings as spares, because that's what wears out, not the entire headset. There would be virtually no money wasted.

Then the only question is which of the two most common integrated headset standards it is "campy" or "cane creek" - both of which, are sold by a variety of companies including Cane Creek! That's why I like the "SHIS" identification better: IS42 ("campy" style) or IS41 ("cane creek" style, confusingly also sometimes referred to as plain old IS).

People should just call integrated headsets IS42 or IS41 and quit with the other crap.

Someone above posted that he thought that frame was an IS42 (see the spec of "41.8" in the insert of the photo above). Easy enough to measure the inside diameter of the head tube - if it's 41mm give or take a tenth, its IS41. If its around 41.8 or 42, it's IS42.

I also REALLY WISH that somewhere on the head tube the SHIS headset standard was stamped and that it was routinely stated in the frame specs you find online. It seems like the frame makers just want to keep that secret for some reason. It is hardly ever clearly and simply specified in frame specs... why not? Bike shops can often not find the right headset unless they contact the manufacturer directly, unless you happen to have the original on hand. Why should, in this case, the proper headset identification be made by someone online who happens to have the same frame and can show the original headset, and knows how to decipher the specs engraved on the bearing cartridges? That just seems silly.