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  1. #1
    Senior Member Metro's Avatar
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    Please forgive my asking silly questions, but I have zero experience here. I don't want to screw it up. I am in the process of upgrading from Shimano 105 to an Uletgra power train and FSA Carbon Pro cranks. I have a crank puller (CCP-4) and an 8mm hex wrench. I still need a torque wrench (have to be careful with carbon, I think).

    I have removed the hex nut from the non-chain side and upon attempting to remove the crank arm find that it won't budge. I did check for additional washers in the hole (none). My question is this, how do I remove the crank arm. My park tool has a tip that screws on/off the tool. I assume that you thread the extractor into the arm assembly with the tip installed in the extractor and back the crank out by tightinening with the extracter handle. Problem is, It looks like the tip is hitting the 8 "splines" inside the crank assembly rather than pushing through to the bracket assembly. Is that correct? I was told this is the correct tool. Do I remove this to remove the crank? I tried the same thing on the chain ring siith the same results. I can look through the bb and see that it is hollow. Am I correct is assuming the I should "force" the tip of the puller through the hole in order to remove the cranks? I have tried it without the the top attached only to find the puller "snugs" in the opening. I want to sell the 105's on Ebay to finance my power train upgrade to Ultegra, so I don't want to damage them.

    Also, once I have removed it. I assume that I insert the new crank arms manually and torque the hex screws to hold it in place. How much torque should I use? FSA directions are not clear with regard to the 105 botom bracket, which I am not removing now. (Later I will purchase and install an Ultegra bracket).

  2. #2
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metro
    Please forgive my asking silly questions, but I have zero experience here. I don't want to screw it up. I am in the process of upgrading from Shimano 105 to an Uletgra power train and FSA Carbon Pro cranks. I have a crank puller (CCP-4) and an 8mm hex wrench. I still need a torque wrench (have to be careful with carbon, I think).

    I have removed the hex nut from the non-chain side and upon attempting to remove the crank arm find that it won't budge. I did check for additional washers in the hole (none). My question is this, how do I remove the crank arm. My park tool has a tip that screws on/off the tool. I assume that you thread the extractor into the arm assembly with the tip installed in the extractor and back the crank out by tightinening with the extracter handle. Problem is, It looks like the tip is hitting the 8 "splines" inside the crank assembly rather than pushing through to the bracket assembly. Is that correct? I was told this is the correct tool. Do I remove this to remove the crank? I tried the same thing on the chain ring siith the same results. I can look through the bb and see that it is hollow. Am I correct is assuming the I should "force" the tip of the puller through the hole in order to remove the cranks? I have tried it without the the top attached only to find the puller "snugs" in the opening. I want to sell the 105's on Ebay to finance my power train upgrade to Ultegra, so I don't want to damage them.

    Also, once I have removed it. I assume that I insert the new crank arms manually and torque the hex screws to hold it in place. How much torque should I use? FSA directions are not clear with regard to the 105 botom bracket, which I am not removing now. (Later I will purchase and install an Ultegra bracket).
    If that tool didn't come with instructions ?? The repair section at www.parktool.com has the drill. You have the right tool. The tool is suppose to bear against the BB spindle to push the crank off it.
    Last edited by sydney; 02-21-05 at 11:02 AM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Metro's Avatar
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    That is with the tip attached? I won't do any damage by "bearing down" on the tool to get it to move?


    Sorry, I read instructions more carefully. Evidently I leave the tip installed. Back the nut off until it is flush with the tip. Screw the nut assemlby into the crank until snug. Tighten the extractor handle until snug. The continue to rotate until the crank backs out. I was concerned about the resistance point. I think I understand now. Thanks.
    Last edited by Metro; 02-21-05 at 11:08 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metro
    That is with the tip attached? I won't do any damage by "bearing down" on the tool to get it to move?
    The tool has to bear against the BB spindle not the splines in the crank arm.
    Last edited by sydney; 02-21-05 at 11:02 AM.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Metro's Avatar
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    Thanks for your patients Syd. , I will give it a try when I get home tonight. Just don't want to get it wrong. Ordinarily I would just bring it in to my lbs and let him do it. I figure I will save the money for more upgrades and do them myself.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Retro Grouch's Avatar
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    The crank that you are trying to remove, does it have a square taper or 8-splines?

    If it's a square taper crank, you need the Park crank extractor that has the BLUE handle and the end of it's spindle has a 7mm diameter. If it's a splined crankset, mine has a BLACK handle and an 11mm spindle. The spindle on the blue handled tool will slide harmlessly into the hollow axle of an Octalink bottom bracket.

    When you go to install your new crankset, be careful to get the splines lined up before you go torqueing down the bolt that holds it all together. 35 lb/ft is the right torque spec. That's probably more than you would use if you tried tightening it with just an allen wrench.
    Last edited by Retro Grouch; 02-21-05 at 01:15 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member squeegy200's Avatar
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    It does take some arm strength to remove the cranks. So don't be too concerned.

    But I did have one issue which I don't think was mentioned.
    I assume you are using the Shimano 105 Octalink crankset. The corresponding Shimano Bottom bracket will have the splines on the driveshaft. However, the FSA is ISIS compatible. I did not catch if you are using a different bottom bracket in your new setup.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Metro's Avatar
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    I have an Octalink compatible FSA crank (Carbon Pro Team Issue) Octalink is stamped right on the spider, so I am certain it is correct. The splines look just like the crank I just removed. There are eight splines. I think there are more splines on the ISIS set up. I was able to remove the cranks. I was not certain at first that I would do damage by adding a little "elbow grease"

    However, I am uncertain about the amount of torque required to secure the carbon cranks. According to FSA, 391-434 inch-lbs for an aluminum ISIS or Square bracket, and 434-521 inch-lbs for a steel bottom bracket of the same type. It does not list Shimano 105 or its catalog number 5500 on the torque chart. Is it safe to assume that the aluminum ISIS spec is sufficient?

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