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  1. #1
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    This is nothing like working on a car

    So I have a Raleigh Detour 4.5 with a clunky bottom bracket (lots of hills and overload the trailer WAY too much) so I figure all I have to do is order the tool and a new bottom bracket and put it in but when I look for the part all the vendors ask for sizing? Is any of this suff standard or do I have to tear it down and measure?

    HELP

  2. #2
    Super Moderator no1mad's Avatar
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    Moved from Hybrids.

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    it is "standard" but you need to know what you are looking at. easiest thing to do is tear it out and bring it to the shop and say i need this. yours is probably square taper in a english shell but it could be anything

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    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    +1, have the part you want to replace in your hand and walk into a bike shop with it..

    pretty much like having a car apart & doing the same, part in hand to the car parts dealer.

  5. #5
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    It's a lot like working on a car. Go to an automotive parts place and ask for an accessory drive belt. You will be asked; what make, which model, what year, which engine, what accessories.......?

    If you want to avoid all of the questions, you take the old one in with you. Same for your bike.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by no1mad View Post
    Moved from Hybrids.
    New here, did I post this in the wrong area?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Ride View Post
    New here, did I post this in the wrong area?
    Well, you will get faster and better answers here in the Mechanics section for mechanical questions.

  8. #8
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    Year, make and model I have. Had hoped to get one online (closest bike shop is about 9 1/2 miles from my house). Not looking like an option.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Well, you will get faster and better answers here in the Mechanics section for mechanical questions.
    Thank You!

  10. #10
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    Just Ride, There are two special tools required to remove the bottom bracket. One for the crankset and one for the BB. If you aren't planning to work on the bicycle very often it may be pretty much the same cost having the bike shop replace the BB. While it looks like a fairly common BB I couldn't find a spec. for the width of the spindle, which is a common variable for square taper BBs.

    Brad

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradtx View Post
    Just Ride, There are two special tools required to remove the bottom bracket. One for the crankset and one for the BB. If you aren't planning to work on the bicycle very often it may be pretty much the same cost having the bike shop replace the BB. While it looks like a fairly common BB I couldn't find a spec. for the width of the spindle, which is a common variable for square taper BBs.

    Brad
    Brad: Thanks for your reply. I have to admit I'm pretty old school and have never been inside anything that didn't have an Ashtabula crank. I take it that I will need one tool to pull the crank arm after removing the nut and another for running the bearing cone out?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Just Ride View Post
    Brad: Thanks for your reply. I have to admit I'm pretty old school and have never been inside anything that didn't have an Ashtabula crank. I take it that I will need one tool to pull the crank arm after removing the nut and another for running the bearing cone out?
    Yes. The BB is a sealed unit that requires a splined tool to remove. Once the nut or bolt is removed from the crank arms a puller threads into the arm and then the crank arm is forced outward until it releases. Both crank arms need to be removed. The whole process takes no more than 30 minutes with the tools and a new correct BB.

    Brad

  13. #13
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    It's a lot like working on a car. Go to an automotive parts place and ask for an accessory drive belt. You will be asked; what make, which model, what year, which engine, what accessories.......?
    I don't think it's much like working on a car at all. Most bike shops can't or won't look up a bike and sell you the part you need. The specs aren't always available or correct. And the manufacturers now only make the frames, so it's not like you're buying a Trek bottom bracket or a Specialized bottom bracket.

    So you need to bring in the whole bike, or just the part you need replaced, or know enough to go in and buy the correct part.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  14. #14
    自転車整備士 oldskoolwrench's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
    I don't think it's much like working on a car at all. Most bike shops can't or won't look up a bike and sell you the part you need. The specs aren't always available or correct. And the manufacturers now only make the frames, so it's not like you're buying a Trek bottom bracket or a Specialized bottom bracket.

    So you need to bring in the whole bike, or just the part you need replaced, or know enough to go in and buy the correct part.
    Indifference is the norm in many LBS's these days, unfortunately. Best thing to do is to bring the specific part in and check it against the one the LBS has in stock, or at least against the parts distributor's 'customer' catalog (the one without the prices).

    BTW... what is the plural of LBS? LBS's? LBSses? Hmmm...

  15. #15
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Sometimes, if you know what crank you have, a bit of searching MIGHT find the recommended BB Cartridge.

    Example, using bikeapedia.com
    2005 Detour 3.5 lists a SR Suntour XCC-T208 crank. (you didn't state year or flavor)
    Googling that shows a 122.5mm cartridge.

    Rule #1 Don't trust bikeapedia.com
    Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 06-29-13 at 11:15 PM.

  16. #16
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    manufacturers of cars tend to make every part, short of nuts and bolts..

    Bikes OTOH are a frame with a Brand name on it.. and all the other parts are from a number of different suppliers

    chosen for a use Goal and a Price Point.

    hand made frames can be a cottage shop. component parts are Not.

  17. #17
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    You are correct, this is nothing like working on a car, it's way easier! I don't have to go out looking for "brake levers to fit a 1982 Raleigh Sports" and then get annoyed when someone sells me a set for an '89 and they don't fit, I just have to know which of two diameters the handlebar clamp area is and which of two different cable pull types the brakes require and buy levers accordingly. In most areas of bike mechanics, the story's the same - it's a case of functional compatibility not manufacturer compatibility. There is the occasional pitfall, but bikes that do require proprietary parts are very unusual.

  18. #18
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    Car manufacturers don't make many parts. As they buy in Tyres, bearings, spark plugs, brake parts, transmission parts, etc.
    Some parts are specified, then they get a small manufacturer to make them.

    Some cars are just badge engineered, IE they stick a badge on another manufacturers product. I suppose that happens a lot in the bike world too.

    http://www.whatcar.com/car-reviews/a...mmary/25989-5/

  19. #19
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    You will definitely need the crank puller tool to get the cranks off. If you have a socket set, test it and see if you can get the crank bolt off, I have been able to use standard sockets on the cranks I have pulled. Then you can get the puller, I have this one: http://www.rei.com/product/702647/pa...nch-and-puller.
    If you have a cartridge style BB, you'll need the special tool to remove those: http://www.rei.com/product/546011/pa...m-bracket-tool. It takes a standard half inch drive socket wrench.
    And if you have a torque wrench, you can even install the new one to the manufacturer's torque specs, which all mechanics do right?
    I don't recall if the sealed BB itself has the specs on it, if so, you take it out and see what it says. But that would be too easy I suspect. If you take it to a bike shop, you can eyeball it against another to verify the threading and spindle length, or you could measure it yourself if you have a large enough caliper.

  20. #20
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    As far as sizing goes, you'll need to measure the inner diameter of your BB shell and the length of the spindle. Those are the two numbers someone would be looking for, in mm (i.e. 68 x 113). Bear in mind that the spindle may be asymmetrical.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

    I would also check to be sure that your "clunking" is not coming from somewhere else since you'll be out a few bucks at the end of your project

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by temon00 View Post
    As far as sizing goes, you'll need to measure the inner diameter of your BB shell and the length of the spindle. Those are the two numbers someone would be looking for, in mm (i.e. 68 x 113). Bear in mind that the spindle may be asymmetrical.

    http://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html

    I would also check to be sure that your "clunking" is not coming from somewhere else since you'll be out a few bucks at the end of your project
    68 is not the inner diameter of the shell but rather the width across it.
    There's no such thing as a routine repair.

    Don't tell me what "should" be - either it is, it isn't, or do something about it.

    Please take the time to post clearly so we can answer quickly. All lowercase and multiple typos makes for a hard read. Thanks!

  22. #22
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    Bottom bracket too arrived from Amazon today, so is it safe for me to assume that the non-drive side crank bolt will be a left hand thread?

  23. #23
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    No. Crank bolts are both RH.
    Fixed (DS) cup is LH.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldskoolwrench View Post
    BTW... what is the plural of LBS? LBS's? LBSses? Hmmm...
    I'd say it's still LBS, since S works equally well as an abbreviation for Shop or Shops

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
    No. Crank bolts are both RH.
    Fixed (DS) cup is LH.
    Thanks! Never would have guessed that.

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