exploded view of giant's fork :-)
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
exploded view of giant's fork :-)
hi Folks
Can anyone give me a link to a site with an exploded view or cross section view of the connections between the fork steer tube and the junk at the top including the stem and the bolt down the middle to tension the bearings. I've got the cane-creek type on a Giant CRX-3.
I'm considering getting new forks with a steer tube about 6" longer than standard. Please don't tell me about extenders (maybe an option later but not right now). Thanks, Snowy.
Can anyone give me a link to a site with an exploded view or cross section view of the connections between the fork steer tube and the junk at the top including the stem and the bolt down the middle to tension the bearings. I've got the cane-creek type on a Giant CRX-3.
I'm considering getting new forks with a steer tube about 6" longer than standard. Please don't tell me about extenders (maybe an option later but not right now). Thanks, Snowy.
#2
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All headsets fall into a few categories with all headsets within each category being very similar. Here's a link to a bunch of headset exploded views. Scroll through and find one that seems appropriate
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FB
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FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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Six inches longer than "standard" is typical. New forks are supplied with a long steerer so they can be cut to fit a variety of headtube lengths and desired rise. If you need to raise the stem to fit (you) the proper spacers are required. If not cut the steerer to the length required by the parts on hand.
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks FB. That gave me exactly the information I needed. From what I see on the picture below, I will just put 4" of spacers between items 52 and 62. Other than that just some cable modifications I think.
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I see people doing this all the time, and most don't suffer failure, but the farther out you go, the weaker it is, so I'd only go that far if it saw light loading, ie. alight rider who doesn't work bars hard when climbing.
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FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
Banned
the electrical cord is a novel feature.. run a hub dynamo or computer?
Tall steerer tubes should only be Steel.
Tall steerer tubes should only be Steel.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Yes, I believe this will be ok for me. I rarely get off the seat and am def a light weight. Being steel also has the advantage that the failure mode is ductile, meaning that even if there was a failure it would give way in a controlled fashion as opposed to the sudden uncontrolled failure mode of brittle composites. The spacers around the outside will also support the steering tube and reduce the likelihood of a buckling weakness.
#8
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Dude- Cut the steerer tube like everybody else does. Use a riser stem if you want more height. 4" is a lot of steerer tube to have showing no matter what its construction. If you need that much stem you might be riding a frame that's too small.