hvt

For the past month or so, my drivetrain has been emitting an occasional clicking noise. The noise occurs only while pedaling, as series of two or three closely-spaced clicks with a brief silence between the sets. At the beginning, it seemed to occur only under hard effort, but since then, it has occassionally started haunting me just about anywhere. It doesn't seem to be linked directly to pedal rotation, and it usually goes away when I coast for a second before starting to pedal again.

The noise is most definitely coming from the drivetrain: a couple of times after I've stopped, the components have been in just the right orientation for the noise to occur, and I've been able to make it sound simply by applying pressure on either of the cranks by hand while off the bike (this also eliminates pedals as a possible sound source). When this has happened, either backpedaling, or rotating the rear wheel in any other orientation has stopped the clicking.

What I've already done, to no avail:

- Replace the chain (the cassette is still in good condition)
- Replace the shifters and rear derailleur (not due to this problem, don't worry...)
- Readjust both derailleurs twice
- Clean, grease and tighten everything in the BB / crank area
- Oil all rear wheel spoke crossings and spoke holes
- Clean and reinstall the cassette
- Remove the freehub body and regrease its mounting bolt

Due to the fact that the problem seems to be linked to a very specific orientation of the rear wheel in relation to the cassette, I'm strongly suspecting the freehub body. My rear hub is a Shimano Dura-Ace FH-7900 with its non-serviceable freehub body, so if it's really causing the problem, I guess the only solution is to replace the whole freehub body assembly.

Any ideas about the source of the clicking?

FBinNY 

I see that you haven't removed or changed the pedals.

One of the most common siurces of clicking is the pedal/crank interface. Simply removing the pedals, cheaning teh flat interface and reinstalling the same pedals will resolve an issue. Other times the problem is in the pdal itself, or between the pedal and cleat, so replacing the pedals with a pair known to be OK can identify the pedals as the issue, or rule them out as OK.

Regardless of the odds, checking the pedals is what you should always do first because it's so easy, involving no expense or complicated work.

IMO, anyone who spends any dough replacing any parts before ruling out the easy first is setting himself up for a V8 moment.

cny-bikeman

Apparently the OP did eliminate the pedals - "I've been able to make it sound simply by applying pressure on either of the cranks by hand.." However it's not clear whether "Clean, grease and tighten everything in the BB / crank area" included removing the cranks and cleaning the mating surfaces of any contamination - a similar process to the pedals. The chainring bolts may also need to be removed, cleaned and reinstalled, though sometimes a llight spray of wd-40 or similar and tightening works. If it's the right crank or chainwheel bolts it can show up when pushing on either crank because the force of the left crank is transmitted through the spindle to the right crank and then to the chainwheel.

I would be surprise if it were the freehub body - usually would make a lower pitched sound than a click, but that is very easily isolated with a temporary wheel change.

jmess

After many months of "its in the bottom bracket or crank" I got lucky and a LBS mech figured out the light weight quick release I was using on the rear wheel didn't have enough clamping force. Replacing it with a beefier one solved the problem.

cny-bikeman

With stubborn problems, especially those involving sounds that can travel so easily on a bike, substitution/isolation is your friend.

hvt

I have, but it doesn't matter because, as I clearly stated in my first post, the pedals have already been eliminated as a possible source.

I have removed, cleaned, greased (when applicable) and put back every part of the crankset assembly (cranks, chainrings, BB, and all their bolts).

I have never had a freehub failure, so I don't know what kind of noise to expect. Cassette could also be the culprit, but I can't figure out what could go wrong there - the splines are clean and I've tightened it to the proper torque. Finding a spare road-spaced 650B wheel for testing could prove rather tricky around here.

Now that I think of it, I haven't tried another quick release. I'm currently using a rather beefy DA internal cam one, clamped quite tight. However, I can't come up with how a slipping quick release could explain the dependency on a particular rear wheel / cassette orientation.

ShartRate

I get something similar in my bike, I think it's stiff links in the chain or gunk in the rear derailler. I can feel the clicking/popping as you do under some conditions, and the other day I noticed that if I turned the cranks backwards that rear derailler was wiggling a little.

cny-bikeman

Stiff links are a popular thing to blame for various problems, but they have a distinctive rhythm, dependent on the number of chainwheel teeth and length of chain. A particular stiff link will come around about once every 2-3 crank revolutions, as that's how long it takes the chainwheel to move 100+ links past a certain point.

Frum

Two things come to mind.

If it's a square taper, try this.

Remove cranks--remove grease--re-install cranks without grease.
Or: Remove cranks--add grease--re-install cranks with grease.

And check the chainring bolts.

Jimbosays

Have had my Giant Escape bike the shop twice (2-3 days each time) within a couple of weeks to fix the SAME drive train issue.

(Obviously they don't do a test ride before giving bikes back to the customer.)

There is a 'clicking' noise in the pedal area during the right side pedal downstroke. This first time they adjusted the front derailleur. The second time they said it was a bad "bottom bracket" (the spindle part in the middle of the bike that pedals are attached to.) Not a problem - Just replace it! So they did and $60+ later absolutely nothing has changed with the original issue.

Picked it up today and took a quick little 10 mile evening ride around the neighborhood to make sure the bike problem was fixed before a planned big ride tomorrow . . . It is not.

I don't mind paying to get it fixed (at least for things that I am not set-up to do myself) . . . But, FIX IT! (And maybe do a 50' test ride to make sure that you DID fix it!)

Not real happy with my LBS right now!

Kimmo

I'd be surprised, even if it has an oversized axle. I bet if you pop that dustcap out, you'll see a couple of notches in the axle bearing cup.

PhotoJoe 

I was having intermittent drive train clicking. Not all of your exact symptoms, but some. Did almost everything mentioned here to no avail. Had the wheels tensioned and the problem went
away. At least now I know what loose spokes sound like.

Blue Belly

What shoes are you wearing? One pair of my sidi's have a plate for MTB cleats. Those can rattle around, just fixed mine.
Check everything. Front chainring bolts, skewer tightness, stem bolts, "any bolts!!". Could be in your rear hub, bottom bracket(which bracket are you using?). Some many things can make this noise & transmit through the frame, making it impossible to find. Check everything you can before spending money at the bike shop

hvt

I've been having a nice click-free week. What I did was remove and clean the cassette again, this time oiling the cog carrier rivets before putting it back. I don't understand how play in the cog carriers could have caused these exact symptoms (namely the fact that during my off-the-bike tests, rotating the rear wheel backwards while the drivetrain was stationary made the noise go away, only to come back when the wheel had rotated some multiple of 360 degrees), but anyway, it seems to be gone for good.

Kimmo

Annoying noises can have tiny causes.

And they can be pretty mysterious; some defy even the most imaginative attempts at speculation.

gnichols

Bought a Velocity wheel with generic looking hub last year and lately was getting the same noise exactly when and how you described. With the wheel off and cassette removed I can grab the freehub and when engaging by hand it will have a slight pop/click sound like it does not seat fully at first. It only does this every third time or so leading me to think it may be a bad cog that is skipping along before engaging. This is a sealed unit that attaches via the non-drive left side with a 12 mm long socket. My problem is I'm not sure what or where to order a replacement because I don't know what brand it is. I have found practically nothing on the web until I came to this post. I'm sure I need to call Velocity after the holidays but was hoping someone had some ideas.

Thanks.
Gene

seedsbelize 

Very often, all that is required is taking something apart and putting it back together again. I have solved many issues, both mechanical and electrical with this procedure. Thankfully bicycle mechanics isn't rocket science, so these things can be done by most. It just takes time.

gnichols

Thanks and I completely agree.. As an advanced armature mechanic I've built many bikes from scratch and have had everything apart, overhauled and successfully adjusted - back in place over the years. I was just not familiar with the process of removing pressed-in axle bearings (not crazy about banging on an axle) so I had a wheel builder/mechanic friend pull it apart and service the hub. Unfortunately I dropped it off and didn't see it apart. I bought him the 6 inch long 12 mm socket for his troubles since he did not have that one.. needed for the non-drive side removal of the free-hub retainer.

I have other wheel sets so this is not a time sensitive matter for me. Just like the Velocity Diads on there and I'm certain the guys at Velocity will help me out in some manner. I'll be sure to report back any findings on this sealed freehub. I see some macro photography opportunities here. )