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opening cantilevers with no quick release

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Old 09-15-13, 11:13 AM
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opening cantilevers with no quick release

I have a Surly cross check frameset that I recently had built up as a single speed/fixed with front and rear brakes. It's the first bike I've ever had that uses cantilever's. The brakes I had put on do not have a quick release on the arms to allow one to easily slide out the wheel. Plus, I have 28mm wide tires so I would need to get decent clearance to do so. Since I have a flip flop hub, it would be nice to be able to easily turn the rear wheel around to ride SS or fixed without having to deflate my tire. Is there something I'm missing here? Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

The brakes are Velo Orange Grand Cru Cantilever, MK3

https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...e-set-mk3.html
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Old 09-15-13, 11:20 AM
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You should be able to just slide one of the sides out of the arm by squeezing it together with your hand to create a little slack.
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Old 09-15-13, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bengreen79
You should be able to just slide one of the sides out of the arm by squeezing it together with your hand to create a little slack.
Right, that's what I thought, but neither arm has the ability to slide out the cable when you press it together. On one side the cable is fixed and the other there is a barrel adjuster, both are essentially locked in though. I can adjust the pad spacing with the barrel adjuster, but my understanding that this is for small adjustments rather than releasing the pads so you can slide out the wheel.
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Old 09-15-13, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by bengreen79
You should be able to just slide one of the sides out of the arm by squeezing it together with your hand to create a little slack.
Yes, the cable needs to have enough slack so that you can pull the cable retainer off the brake arm while holding the pads against the rim.
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Old 09-15-13, 11:34 AM
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Yep; also good is to buy brake levers with a quick release. I really like the cane creek levers for that reason; they're nice and beefy.
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Old 09-15-13, 11:34 AM
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Oh ok, sorry then I'm not really sure - good luck!
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Old 09-15-13, 11:37 AM
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A cantilever brake with a barrel adjuster? Photos, please.
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Old 09-15-13, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dsbrantjr
A cantilever brake with a barrel adjuster? Photos, please.
See if you can see it on the link I posted, there's a few photos. If not I can take some on my bike.

link here: https://store.velo-orange.com/index.p...e-set-mk3.html
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Old 09-15-13, 11:48 AM
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It appears that the entire adjusting ferrule assembly or the anchor bolted side of the traverse/ straddle wires slip out of the end of the canti arm. Essentially they operate like an old set of Mafacs, in that regard. Also the Cane Creek/ Tektro levers have a side ways sliding button that is a "quick release" as well. I have seen Cross Checks set up as complete bikes with these levers.
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Old 09-15-13, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by elcraft
It appears that the entire adjusting ferrule assembly or the anchor bolted side of the traverse/ straddle wires slip out of the end of the canti arm. Essentially they operate like an old set of Mafacs, in that regard. Also the Cane Creek/ Tektro levers have a side ways sliding button that is a "quick release" as well. I have seen Cross Checks set up as complete bikes with these levers.
That's what it looks like to me. Looks like the whole adjuster assembly slips out. Perhaps the OP's pads are so close in, that there he can't get enough slack to get it unhooked.
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Old 09-15-13, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by elcraft
It appears that the entire adjusting ferrule assembly or the anchor bolted side of the traverse/ straddle wires slip out of the end of the canti arm. Essentially they operate like an old set of Mafacs, in that regard. Also the Cane Creek/ Tektro levers have a side ways sliding button that is a "quick release" as well. I have seen Cross Checks set up as complete bikes with these levers.
Ugh, you know, usually I'm pretty good at reframing an issue, I did not think to look under the assembly for an opening. You were 100% right, thanks!
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Old 09-15-13, 12:40 PM
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Really Basic .. let the air out of the tire ,.. and re istall the wheel like that ,

then pump it up, again, once back in the bike.



by the way . the spool on either end can be removed from the cantilever arm .

that is your QR.. that design type is very old ..

Mafac cantilever brakes are just Post WW2 in origin..

Last edited by fietsbob; 09-15-13 at 12:50 PM.
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Old 09-16-13, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Really Basic .. let the air out of the tire ,.. and re istall the wheel like that ,

then pump it up, again, once back in the bike.



by the way . the spool on either end can be removed from the cantilever arm .

that is your QR.. that design type is very old ..

Mafac cantilever brakes are just Post WW2 in origin..
Just curious, now that I've (with everyones help here) figured out the quick release with these brakes. Is there a benefit from deflating the tire to get the wheel off? Less wear and tear on the brakes opening them like this?

My last bike was a simple MTB that I commuted on. I was in the habit of taking the rear wheel off when locking, several times a day and it was easiest to release the brake and slide it out. Would of been a pain to have to let air out and back into the tire every time I wanted the wheel off.
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Old 09-16-13, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by dangorange
Is there a benefit from deflating the tire to get the wheel off? Less wear and tear on the brakes opening them like this?
No, it's only a last ditch method to be used when it's otherwise very difficult or impossible to get an inflated tire from between the brake pads. Opening the caliper arms far enough to clear the inflated tire is by far a better and more convenient technique.
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Old 09-16-13, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by dangorange
Just curious, now that I've (with everyones help here) figured out the quick release with these brakes. Is there a benefit from deflating the tire to get the wheel off? Less wear and tear on the brakes opening them like this?

My last bike was a simple MTB that I commuted on. I was in the habit of taking the rear wheel off when locking, several times a day and it was easiest to release the brake and slide it out. Would of been a pain to have to let air out and back into the tire every time I wanted the wheel off.
on the contrary

the brakes are designed to pivot
and quick releases are designed to release

however
letting all the air out of the tire
introduces the posibility of putting stress on the valve stem
or maybe the beads of the tire coming unseated
and resulting in a flat or blowout
although this is unlikely

the main problem with letting the air out is that pumping your tire
is generally more difficult than connecting a cable qr
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Old 09-16-13, 07:41 AM
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Great thanks, this is what I figured!
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Old 09-16-13, 08:18 AM
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What kind of handlebars and levers are you using? If you are using flat bars and levers, adjust the brakes with the lever's barrel adjusters out. When you want to remove the wheels, screw the adjusters in to allow you to unhook the straddle cable.If you are using drop bars and levers, install in-line barrel adjusters and adjust the brakes similarly.
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