What wheels do I need to look for?
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What wheels do I need to look for?
I recently recovered an 85 Peugeot Triathalon 12 speed from the metal dumpster at work. While I do have the wheels that had the dropouts on them for it, they need work and one has a minor bend where the tire seats at the bead. They are 700C and the tires are 700x20 that are currently on them. I was thinking of just buying a new set rather than investing in the old set. The problem is, I have no idea what the heck to buy. I see measuremets listed that I have no idea what they mean. So I guess I ned to know what do I need to measure to get new wheels that will work with my gear set?---or should I get a new gear set too....? I see they make wheels in colors too, so I was thinking a red color to pick up the accents on the bike.
This is a recreational rider, that will see the average streets, so something that is strong but still lightweight like the stock wheels would be nice. I just want to cruise--but at a fast pace compared to my hybrid commuter bike.
This is a recreational rider, that will see the average streets, so something that is strong but still lightweight like the stock wheels would be nice. I just want to cruise--but at a fast pace compared to my hybrid commuter bike.
#2
Really Old Senior Member
Multiple questions here-
What do you weigh and how bad are your roads?
What is the drop out spacing?
Free wheel or free hub?
What brand rim is currently on it?
I assume the current hub is a free wheel vs free hub.
What do you weigh and how bad are your roads?
What is the drop out spacing?
Free wheel or free hub?
What brand rim is currently on it?
I assume the current hub is a free wheel vs free hub.
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"While I do have the wheels that had the dropouts on them for it"
Not sure what you mean by this. Are you referring to the quick release skewers?
"They are 700C and the tires are 700x20 that are currently on them." "I see measurements listed that I have no idea what they mean." "So I guess I ned to know what do I need to measure to get new wheels that will work with my gear set?---or should I get a new gear set too....?"
You'll need to get wheels with the same rim diameter (700c or as the tire sees things, 622mm). Rim width should be within a couple mms as the old or fitting within the brake calipers might be challenged. One of the reasons to shop at your LBS is they do know what the measurements mean. Either you'll match the rear hub's width (actually the inside width of the rear drop outs likely 125mm) or if you get a wider rear hub you'll have to spread apart the frame when you install the wheel. Not a big deal in it' self but a hassle when fixing a flat on the road in bad weather. Either you'll match the type of cog attachment ( freewheel, Heilcomatic or cassette) with the old and reuse the old cogs, or you'll be replacing the cogs with new. Which has it's own set of further replacements usually needed starting with the chain. The simplest is to get the same cog attachment type and hub width as you now have.
But your bike could use the Mailard Heilcomatic (sp?) hub/cog design, a type that borrows from both a freewheel and cassettes. This type is no longer around or supported by the industry. If this is what you have you'll be rebuilding the rear wheel with a fresh rim and spokes (and have checked the bearing condition to confirm this choice has long term value) or be replacing wheel, cogs and chain (and possible more).
Before you go too far I'd check out the rest of the bike's condition. Peugeot frames were never known to be super durable so use/accident damage could be present. How rusted are things, seat post, BB as examples? Is the size good for you?
If all is good and you go forward with fixing this bile up consider getting wider tires. They will ride smoother, have better traction, get less flats, protect the rims better then the skinny current ones. Andy.
Not sure what you mean by this. Are you referring to the quick release skewers?
"They are 700C and the tires are 700x20 that are currently on them." "I see measurements listed that I have no idea what they mean." "So I guess I ned to know what do I need to measure to get new wheels that will work with my gear set?---or should I get a new gear set too....?"
You'll need to get wheels with the same rim diameter (700c or as the tire sees things, 622mm). Rim width should be within a couple mms as the old or fitting within the brake calipers might be challenged. One of the reasons to shop at your LBS is they do know what the measurements mean. Either you'll match the rear hub's width (actually the inside width of the rear drop outs likely 125mm) or if you get a wider rear hub you'll have to spread apart the frame when you install the wheel. Not a big deal in it' self but a hassle when fixing a flat on the road in bad weather. Either you'll match the type of cog attachment ( freewheel, Heilcomatic or cassette) with the old and reuse the old cogs, or you'll be replacing the cogs with new. Which has it's own set of further replacements usually needed starting with the chain. The simplest is to get the same cog attachment type and hub width as you now have.
But your bike could use the Mailard Heilcomatic (sp?) hub/cog design, a type that borrows from both a freewheel and cassettes. This type is no longer around or supported by the industry. If this is what you have you'll be rebuilding the rear wheel with a fresh rim and spokes (and have checked the bearing condition to confirm this choice has long term value) or be replacing wheel, cogs and chain (and possible more).
Before you go too far I'd check out the rest of the bike's condition. Peugeot frames were never known to be super durable so use/accident damage could be present. How rusted are things, seat post, BB as examples? Is the size good for you?
If all is good and you go forward with fixing this bile up consider getting wider tires. They will ride smoother, have better traction, get less flats, protect the rims better then the skinny current ones. Andy.
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I recently recovered an 85 Peugeot Triathalon 12 speed from the metal dumpster at work. While I do have the wheels that had the dropouts on them for it, they need work and one has a minor bend where the tire seats at the bead. They are 700C and the tires are 700x20 that are currently on them. I was thinking of just buying a new set rather than investing in the old set. The problem is, I have no idea what the heck to buy. I see measuremets listed that I have no idea what they mean. So I guess I ned to know what do I need to measure to get new wheels that will work with my gear set?---or should I get a new gear set too....? I see they make wheels in colors too, so I was thinking a red color to pick up the accents on the bike.
This is a recreational rider, that will see the average streets, so something that is strong but still lightweight like the stock wheels would be nice. I just want to cruise--but at a fast pace compared to my hybrid commuter bike.
This is a recreational rider, that will see the average streets, so something that is strong but still lightweight like the stock wheels would be nice. I just want to cruise--but at a fast pace compared to my hybrid commuter bike.
https://forum.slowtwitch.com/cgi-bin/...i?post=2599011
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OK, sorry for the noob questions. I do know some basics on bikes, but I am not super savvy on all the terms and such. The bike in question is in very good shape, with only minor surface rust in the pedal area (bottom bracket ?) where the paint started to peel. All the seams in the lugged frame are nice and exhibit no cracking. The bike was only in our metal dumpster for a very short time, and we had a multiple weeks of no rain (except for one or two spotty showers). I know it should fit me well as the previous owner is very close in my size and build--I tried to buy this bike a year or so ago and he refused, and then here it ends up for scrap. I never did ride it while it was in one piece though.
Hopefully I can answer all questions below.
Bill, I weigh 230 lbs. Our roads are not horrible from things I hear other people across the country have. Everything I ride on is paved, but there are bumps potholes and cracks to deal with and sometimes built up road dust/gravel on less traveled ones that I go on.
A little backround on what I have currently for my other bike. My current commuter is a Jamis Allegro 1X , that has Alex rims that say Ace 24 on them. They have Panaracer Pasella tires which are 700c x 32. These seem to be adequate for the intended commuter use and are very stable for me at thier 90lbs air setting and get along great on the roads here. They had some really big tires on them initially from the factory (700 x 35c Vittoria Randonneur Trail) that ate up way to much energy. So thin was definatly the right move for me.
Back to the Peogeot bike, On the drop out (the space between the fork and rear of the frame) the front measures at 101mm and the rear is about 126mm. I used my digital calipers to measure, but because of the plastic chaingaurd on the rear wheel it was tough to get an exact measurment.
I think that it has a freeweel hub on it (is this the type that the wheel turns but the gears don't?)
There is no marking on the rim itself, but the Hub say Normandy luxe competition. They seem to rotate smooth on the axles. From what I can tell this bike is a lower entry level competion bike.
Andy, yes, I did mean the quick releasr skewers on the wheels.
Rims measure 19.2mm on the outside and 12.4 on the inside---again, using my digital calipers to measure. On the drop out (the space between the fork and rear of the frame) the front measures at 101mm and the rear is about 126mm. I used my digital calipers to measure, but because of the plastic chaingaurd on the rear wheel it was tough to get an exact measurment. Not sure on how the cogs attach.
It looks exactly like that with the Super Vitas 980 frame, except for the color. Mine is an '85 from the numbers on it and seems to carry some better componets vs. the later ones. It has Modolo Speedy brakes, and most of the drivetrain parts have Sachs Huret stamped on them. Has Atax stem and seat post too and Sellae San Marco seat. The wheel hubs say Normandy Luxe Competition
Hopefully I can answer all questions below.
A little backround on what I have currently for my other bike. My current commuter is a Jamis Allegro 1X , that has Alex rims that say Ace 24 on them. They have Panaracer Pasella tires which are 700c x 32. These seem to be adequate for the intended commuter use and are very stable for me at thier 90lbs air setting and get along great on the roads here. They had some really big tires on them initially from the factory (700 x 35c Vittoria Randonneur Trail) that ate up way to much energy. So thin was definatly the right move for me.
Back to the Peogeot bike, On the drop out (the space between the fork and rear of the frame) the front measures at 101mm and the rear is about 126mm. I used my digital calipers to measure, but because of the plastic chaingaurd on the rear wheel it was tough to get an exact measurment.
I think that it has a freeweel hub on it (is this the type that the wheel turns but the gears don't?)
There is no marking on the rim itself, but the Hub say Normandy luxe competition. They seem to rotate smooth on the axles. From what I can tell this bike is a lower entry level competion bike.
"While I do have the wheels that had the dropouts on them for it"
Not sure what you mean by this. Are you referring to the quick release skewers?
"They are 700C and the tires are 700x20 that are currently on them." "I see measurements listed that I have no idea what they mean." "So I guess I ned to know what do I need to measure to get new wheels that will work with my gear set?---or should I get a new gear set too....?"
You'll need to get wheels with the same rim diameter (700c or as the tire sees things, 622mm). Rim width should be within a couple mms as the old or fitting within the brake calipers might be challenged. One of the reasons to shop at your LBS is they do know what the measurements mean. Either you'll match the rear hub's width (actually the inside width of the rear drop outs likely 125mm) or if you get a wider rear hub you'll have to spread apart the frame when you install the wheel. Not a big deal in it' self but a hassle when fixing a flat on the road in bad weather. Either you'll match the type of cog attachment ( freewheel, Heilcomatic or cassette) with the old and reuse the old cogs, or you'll be replacing the cogs with new. Which has it's own set of further replacements usually needed starting with the chain. The simplest is to get the same cog attachment type and hub width as you now have.
But your bike could use the Mailard Heilcomatic (sp?) hub/cog design, a type that borrows from both a freewheel and cassettes. This type is no longer around or supported by the industry. If this is what you have you'll be rebuilding the rear wheel with a fresh rim and spokes (and have checked the bearing condition to confirm this choice has long term value) or be replacing wheel, cogs and chain (and possible more).
Before you go too far I'd check out the rest of the bike's condition. Peugeot frames were never known to be super durable so use/accident damage could be present. How rusted are things, seat post, BB as examples? Is the size good for you?
If all is good and you go forward with fixing this bile up consider getting wider tires. They will ride smoother, have better traction, get less flats, protect the rims better then the skinny current ones. Andy.
Not sure what you mean by this. Are you referring to the quick release skewers?
"They are 700C and the tires are 700x20 that are currently on them." "I see measurements listed that I have no idea what they mean." "So I guess I ned to know what do I need to measure to get new wheels that will work with my gear set?---or should I get a new gear set too....?"
You'll need to get wheels with the same rim diameter (700c or as the tire sees things, 622mm). Rim width should be within a couple mms as the old or fitting within the brake calipers might be challenged. One of the reasons to shop at your LBS is they do know what the measurements mean. Either you'll match the rear hub's width (actually the inside width of the rear drop outs likely 125mm) or if you get a wider rear hub you'll have to spread apart the frame when you install the wheel. Not a big deal in it' self but a hassle when fixing a flat on the road in bad weather. Either you'll match the type of cog attachment ( freewheel, Heilcomatic or cassette) with the old and reuse the old cogs, or you'll be replacing the cogs with new. Which has it's own set of further replacements usually needed starting with the chain. The simplest is to get the same cog attachment type and hub width as you now have.
But your bike could use the Mailard Heilcomatic (sp?) hub/cog design, a type that borrows from both a freewheel and cassettes. This type is no longer around or supported by the industry. If this is what you have you'll be rebuilding the rear wheel with a fresh rim and spokes (and have checked the bearing condition to confirm this choice has long term value) or be replacing wheel, cogs and chain (and possible more).
Before you go too far I'd check out the rest of the bike's condition. Peugeot frames were never known to be super durable so use/accident damage could be present. How rusted are things, seat post, BB as examples? Is the size good for you?
If all is good and you go forward with fixing this bile up consider getting wider tires. They will ride smoother, have better traction, get less flats, protect the rims better then the skinny current ones. Andy.
Rims measure 19.2mm on the outside and 12.4 on the inside---again, using my digital calipers to measure. On the drop out (the space between the fork and rear of the frame) the front measures at 101mm and the rear is about 126mm. I used my digital calipers to measure, but because of the plastic chaingaurd on the rear wheel it was tough to get an exact measurment. Not sure on how the cogs attach.
It looks exactly like that with the Super Vitas 980 frame, except for the color. Mine is an '85 from the numbers on it and seems to carry some better componets vs. the later ones. It has Modolo Speedy brakes, and most of the drivetrain parts have Sachs Huret stamped on them. Has Atax stem and seat post too and Sellae San Marco seat. The wheel hubs say Normandy Luxe Competition
Last edited by guitarguy; 10-06-13 at 01:38 PM.
#6
Really Old Senior Member
I'm not that knowledgeable about Normandy hubs, but I think they may be a French thread.
Basically, you want to look for a wheel with-
100mm Front/ 126mm Rear spacing.
Compatible with Free Wheel.
I'd recommend a set using Sun Rims M13 II rims.
It's a pretty decent "meat & potatoes" rim at a reasonable price.
In reality, you can probably get away with less.
I use the M13's on a set I built for my hybrid (230 lbs. 32 double butted spokes) that seem to be working well.
I dropped the rear wheel in an old style storm drain, bouncing me about 8" out of the seat.
It did tweak the wheel out of true a couple mm and loosed the tension on a couple spokes.
A couple minutes with the truing stand and my tension meter, I had things back to snuff.
I'd look at something like these-
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-7...el+set+6+speed
Have the spokes tensioned before using and they should serve you for many years.
Basically, you want to look for a wheel with-
100mm Front/ 126mm Rear spacing.
Compatible with Free Wheel.
I'd recommend a set using Sun Rims M13 II rims.
It's a pretty decent "meat & potatoes" rim at a reasonable price.
In reality, you can probably get away with less.
I use the M13's on a set I built for my hybrid (230 lbs. 32 double butted spokes) that seem to be working well.
I dropped the rear wheel in an old style storm drain, bouncing me about 8" out of the seat.
It did tweak the wheel out of true a couple mm and loosed the tension on a couple spokes.
A couple minutes with the truing stand and my tension meter, I had things back to snuff.
I'd look at something like these-
https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-7...el+set+6+speed
Have the spokes tensioned before using and they should serve you for many years.
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 10-06-13 at 02:46 PM.
#7
Jack of all trades
I have the same frame. I cold-set the rear dropouts to 130mm and used modern wheels. If you don't know how to cold-set a frame, you might take it to your local bike shop and have them do it. Or, if you are not "risk averse" you can look up cold-setting bike frames on youtube and learn to do it yourself.
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Pug Triathlons are good, rideable frames and the horizontal rear axle dropouts make them good candidates for singlespeed and fixed wheel conversions.
The old style 126mm Over Locknut Dimension means that you will either have to bend the frame out to fit a modern 130mm road hub or use an older 126mm hub. You can safely bend the frame and force in a modern hub but it makes wheel changing a bit more challenging. Permanently deforming the frame to fit (called cold setting) can be done but you need alignment tools, it is a job for a good quality bike shop.
If you want an older hub, be sure that the rear sprockets are still available. Screw-on freeweels are available in 7 speed which will work on your bike (that is what I use).
The standard rim for tough everyday training is probably Mavic OpenPro with a 15mm width which is good for tyres of 23-28mm
The old style 126mm Over Locknut Dimension means that you will either have to bend the frame out to fit a modern 130mm road hub or use an older 126mm hub. You can safely bend the frame and force in a modern hub but it makes wheel changing a bit more challenging. Permanently deforming the frame to fit (called cold setting) can be done but you need alignment tools, it is a job for a good quality bike shop.
If you want an older hub, be sure that the rear sprockets are still available. Screw-on freeweels are available in 7 speed which will work on your bike (that is what I use).
The standard rim for tough everyday training is probably Mavic OpenPro with a 15mm width which is good for tyres of 23-28mm
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