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Removing bottom bracket from Schwinn Super Le tour 12.2

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Removing bottom bracket from Schwinn Super Le tour 12.2

Old 10-16-13, 09:39 PM
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Removing bottom bracket from Schwinn Super Le tour 12.2

I have removed the crank and lock ring from the bottom bracket. But, unlike most of the other pictures I've seen of older schwinn BBs, mine does not have a Hex fitting on the non-drive side, instead there are two small holes on either side of the axle. What tool do I need to remove this?

Also, I've attempted to remove the other end of the BB, but it won't budge.

Any tips?


Finally, I converted this bike to a fixed gear, and would like to remove the smaller chain ring. The bolts and nuts will only tighten enough to secure both chain rings. Where can I find shorter nuts for this?
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Old 10-16-13, 09:53 PM
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The NDS cup likely takes a pin wrench. Several companies have made ones over the years. Some are fixed across the pins, some adjustable. But a nail and a screw driver can substitute often. Place the nail in the cup's pin hole (there are probably 4 or 6 holes) and then using the screwdriver as a lever between the nail and BB axle you might be able to turn the cup.

Single CW bolts should be available at most LBSs. or you can be creative and use washers to take up the slop. Andy.
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Old 10-16-13, 10:00 PM
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Having just finished up with a similar problem, I believe the tool you are looking for is what I have only seen referenced as the giant pair of tweezers.



I was unable to track down said tool, so I improvised. I am sure this is the worst way possible, but this is what I did:

For the non-drive side, I blunted a nail, positioned it against the side of one of the holes, and gently tapped it with a hammer to spin the BB until I was able to hand turn it the rest of the way. It was actually surprisingly easy.

The bracket on the drive side on the other hand was clearly invented by sadists. I ended up resorting to using a dremel to cut slots into the center of it to accommodate the splines of a freewheel removal tool, and along with a large crescent wrench I was finally able to spin it off (after cursing at it for most of an afternoon).
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Old 10-17-13, 05:31 AM
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People have been successfully using BB tools for decades - it's not as hard as implied above. Secondly, a search for overhaul/adjust BB will certainly come up with more references to a pin tool than to tweezers, and more bikes came with pin tool cups than did not. If the components are in good shape and you re-use them you will have a very difficult time readjusting the BB without a pin tool. Bike parts are fairly generic, so you don't have to look up Schwinn specifically when you are doing a repair.

As for the fixed cup (named so for a reason) you may not have to remove it, and certainly don't need to undertake modifications with a Dremel. Google remove fixed cup and especially check out the sheldonbrown.com link. If you need to replace BB parts due to wear on the spindle or cups you may be best taking the bike to a shop and having them remove the fixed cup and install the proper cartridge BB, as that type will require yet a different tool, as well as figuring out what length you need.

Last edited by cny-bikeman; 10-17-13 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 10-17-13, 05:33 AM
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It's a pin wrench and Park Tools has them. For the NDS see Sheldon.
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Old 10-17-13, 07:21 AM
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Thanks all. I'll take this to the bike coop for some help.
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Old 10-17-13, 09:10 AM
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Ancient Home Remedies...

This is covered in several of the 1970s maintenance books I have, and again on Sheldon's web notes:

"The first home remedy demands that you have a high-quality bench vise. Simply grab the fixed-cup wrench flats in the vise jaws, making sure that you have good contact with all of the wrench flats' meager width. Grasp the bike frame and unscrew it from the cup. This technique works quite well."

Remembering that for Japanese or English threaded BBs, you'll be dealing with left handed threads. So, place the fixed-cup flats in your bench vise. Standing over the frame, you'll be turning the frame clockwise.

I've used this method a dozen times.

PG
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Old 10-18-13, 06:39 AM
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Soak the cup threads with Pb blaster. While its soaking get a Park HCW-4 tool. Use the tool and with a hammer go CLOCKWISE. Works every time for me.

It should come off, unlike Sheldon's comment. Otherwise you can't adequately clean and inspect.
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Old 09-12-18, 07:03 PM
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ZOMBIE Thread - blast from the long dead past....

Howdy - I just picked up and over paid for a Schwinn Super LeTour 12.2 (1976) ~ Schwinn catalogs, 1971 - 1980 (292 of 579) ~ I paid $50: frame / fork / headset (I think...) / about 67% of the bottom bracket (axel / left adjustable cup / plastic tube thingy / right side fixed (and STUCK) cup / and 3 ball bearings... seriously.. caveat emptor, Brute?)

So the fixed cup is stuck. I tried the vice method: clamp the cup; rotate the frame clockwise to loosen. I've used this method before on my NISHIKI with success.

Supposing someone over the past say 42 years used red loctite on this cup, what do I do?

The paint is not in great shape, but I was not planning on repainting. So I don't want to take a torch to it.

Let me know if you have any suggestions. I'll be pursuing Wheels Manufacturing for new balls so I can recycle the existing bottom bracket....... grrr...
- next I'll be getting into the headset.

https://wheelsmfg.com/bearing-tech-help
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Old 09-13-18, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by mrv
So the fixed cup is stuck. I tried the vice method: clamp the cup; rotate the frame clockwise to loosen. I've used this method before on my NISHIKI with success.

Supposing someone over the past say 42 years used red loctite on this cup, what do I do?
Loctite was really only considered if the fixed cup has standard (not left-hand) thread, i.e. metric (aka "French") or Italian thread. Schwinns have always been English thread, so it's unlikely that Loctite would have been used.

Are you certain you are turning the cup in to proper direction?

Have you tried the Sheldon Brown tool?



Failing that, you may need to use a professional-grade tool like the Campagnolo #793 :



This is an expensive tool, likely too expensive for a one-off job, so you may want to let your LBS handle this.

Finally, does it really need to come out? Sometimes the most prudent course of action is to clean it in place and repack with fresh balls and grease.

Last edited by JohnDThompson; 09-13-18 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 09-13-18, 09:33 AM
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Thanks! @JohnDThompson -- I did find that after a bit more searching via the interwebs this AM. So I will likely use that method or something similar that pins the wrench in place so I can smack all heck out of the wrench and not have it fly off underneath my work bench.
-- Does it need to come out? -- I can order caged balls from Wheels Manufacturing ($6.00~$8.00); lock ring for adjustable cup from eBay ($4.50); so then it's just me figuring out if the spindle is close enough to make this a single speed. -- So not sure just yet.

I do have a good relationship with my bike shop for "tool rental" (the last rental involved me peeling the shipping wax from his crown race tool a couple weeks ago..... but got my JIS fork crown cut down to ISO for my new TANGE-SEIKE headset... good times).
If I do remove the fixed cup, I'll probably chase & face the BB. It looks like I was not first person to not get this cut removed..... Should of picked up on the clues before handing over the $50 American dollars.....

- This morning it hit me that I also was missing the adjustable side lock ring ~ which can be had for $4.50 plus shipping off eBay. If I can get the fixed cup removed, I'll probably go with the cartridge style and try to figure out the spindle length. Lots of posts on that topic also.
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Old 09-13-18, 07:46 PM
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Got it. Had to smack it to where I thought for sure something else would break.




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