Is my chainring already bad?
#1
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Is my chainring already bad?
Hi,
I bought a Sugino xd600 this summer, it has maybe 800 miles on it. Today, when riding in the large chainring, periodically I hear a clink from the chain. I stopped by the lbs on the way home, they said my current chain was 3/4 spent, so I sprung for a new chain, but on the way home, the same thing happened.
When I got home, I flipped her over and ran the cranks and found that the chain is sticking to the chainring at one point when running in reverse, and having trouble seating when running forward. In the photo, you can see the chain not seating properly. Looking at the teeth in the other photo (I don't have a trained eye), nothing seems to be out of order.
I bought a Sugino xd600 this summer, it has maybe 800 miles on it. Today, when riding in the large chainring, periodically I hear a clink from the chain. I stopped by the lbs on the way home, they said my current chain was 3/4 spent, so I sprung for a new chain, but on the way home, the same thing happened.
When I got home, I flipped her over and ran the cranks and found that the chain is sticking to the chainring at one point when running in reverse, and having trouble seating when running forward. In the photo, you can see the chain not seating properly. Looking at the teeth in the other photo (I don't have a trained eye), nothing seems to be out of order.
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In the second photo, it's approximately the 5th tooth starting from the chain looking right
#3
Ancient Clydesdale
Have you used a chain wear indicator tool to check chain wear? My guess would be that the chain is worn out.
You can also directly measure chain wear like this:
From this link
Measuring Chain Wear
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one link pin, then looking at the corresponding link pin 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this link pin will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the link pin will be past the inch mark. [For accurate measurement, the chain should be held under some tension -- either on the bicycle, or hanging. Also, use a metal ruler or tape measure. Wood, plastic and cloth all can expand or shrink.-- John Allen]
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.
If the link pin is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
If the link pin is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
If the link pin is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
If the link pin is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
You can also directly measure chain wear like this:
From this link
Measuring Chain Wear
The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler at the side of one link pin, then looking at the corresponding link pin 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this link pin will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the link pin will be past the inch mark. [For accurate measurement, the chain should be held under some tension -- either on the bicycle, or hanging. Also, use a metal ruler or tape measure. Wood, plastic and cloth all can expand or shrink.-- John Allen]
This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets. first, let's look at how to do this with a ruler that measures in inches.
If the link pin is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
If the link pin is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
If the link pin is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
If the link pin is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.
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"My guess would be that the chain is worn out." The OP stated that he has just replaced the chain.
Forget the chain checkers and spend your money on a good rule and measure as instructed above. The chain checkers are notoriously unreliable and misleading.
Does the chain have a problem engaging the chainwheel in only one spot or does it happen everywhere. If it is only a single link with the problem the chain may have a manufacturing defect or has been joined incorrectly at that link.
I would be surprised if you have worn out a chainwheel in 800 miles unless you have ridden in extreme conditions and been very neglectful of the chain to boot.
Forget the chain checkers and spend your money on a good rule and measure as instructed above. The chain checkers are notoriously unreliable and misleading.
Does the chain have a problem engaging the chainwheel in only one spot or does it happen everywhere. If it is only a single link with the problem the chain may have a manufacturing defect or has been joined incorrectly at that link.
I would be surprised if you have worn out a chainwheel in 800 miles unless you have ridden in extreme conditions and been very neglectful of the chain to boot.
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Your chainrings are fine, and there's good chance you old chain was also. 800 miles is extremely short to wear out a chain, (or 3/4 wear one out). Most of the chain wear indicators tend to read high, including some I've seen that show brand new chains 1/2 way worn.
As for the click, it could be any number of things, from the chain passing over the shift gates, which doesn't matter, to a crank loose on the spindle which is serious and needs immediate attention. It could also be a number of other things, so take your time and diagnose it carefully before you throw any money at the problem.
One key to the diagnosis is timing. Try to note the frequency as compared with crank rotation, and if once per turn, when it happens (pedal position).
As for the click, it could be any number of things, from the chain passing over the shift gates, which doesn't matter, to a crank loose on the spindle which is serious and needs immediate attention. It could also be a number of other things, so take your time and diagnose it carefully before you throw any money at the problem.
One key to the diagnosis is timing. Try to note the frequency as compared with crank rotation, and if once per turn, when it happens (pedal position).
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Your chainrings are fine, and there's good chance you old chain was also. 800 miles is extremely short to wear out a chain, (or 3/4 wear one out). Most of the chain wear indicators tend to read high, including some I've seen that show brand new chains 1/2 way worn.
As for the click, it could be any number of things, from the chain passing over the shift gates, which doesn't matter, to a crank loose on the spindle which is serious and needs immediate attention. It could also be a number of other things, so take your time and diagnose it carefully before you throw any money at the problem.
One key to the diagnosis is timing. Try to note the frequency as compared with crank rotation, and if once per turn, when it happens (pedal position).
As for the click, it could be any number of things, from the chain passing over the shift gates, which doesn't matter, to a crank loose on the spindle which is serious and needs immediate attention. It could also be a number of other things, so take your time and diagnose it carefully before you throw any money at the problem.
One key to the diagnosis is timing. Try to note the frequency as compared with crank rotation, and if once per turn, when it happens (pedal position).
#7
Ancient Clydesdale
"My guess would be that the chain is worn out." The OP stated that he has just replaced the chain.
Forget the chain checkers and spend your money on a good rule and measure as instructed above. The chain checkers are notoriously unreliable and misleading.
Does the chain have a problem engaging the chainwheel in only one spot or does it happen everywhere. If it is only a single link with the problem the chain may have a manufacturing defect or has been joined incorrectly at that link.
I would be surprised if you have worn out a chainwheel in 800 miles unless you have ridden in extreme conditions and been very neglectful of the chain to boot.
Forget the chain checkers and spend your money on a good rule and measure as instructed above. The chain checkers are notoriously unreliable and misleading.
Does the chain have a problem engaging the chainwheel in only one spot or does it happen everywhere. If it is only a single link with the problem the chain may have a manufacturing defect or has been joined incorrectly at that link.
I would be surprised if you have worn out a chainwheel in 800 miles unless you have ridden in extreme conditions and been very neglectful of the chain to boot.
I'm having a hard time reconciling a brand new chain, just installed at the LBS and what I see in the pics. To me, it looks like an old worn out chain on a reasonably fresh chain ring.
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OK, at the risk of sounding like a parrot......... +1..... I didn't look at the chain just the chain ring which looks fine but you're right that does NOT look like a new chain in the pics.
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It's definitely a new chain, I saw the mechanic take it out of the packaging and install it. I had a fair amount of grease buildup on the chainwheel which I wiped off before the photo, and it was raining today, so there is grime all over the bike.
It happened on the way to work with the old chain, and again with the new, so I don't think it's the chain.
It only happens on the largest chainring, which I use the least.
Rotating it at home, I saw the sticky spot and wondered if that was the cause, but I would be surprised if that caused the sound.
I checked the crank arms and there is no play, so the bb seems ok. I wondered if the arms may be spinning around the spindle, but the bottom bracket was new in July, bought with the crank and has the same mileage. Plus, the sound just sounds like a chain, I think the crank arms rotating would make a different sound.
Close to the house, I held the phone between my legs and tried to film it and I never got the image of it, but in the following three links, you can hear the click. It sounds like a gear change, but it's not.
https://s240.photobucket.com/user/byr...4.html?filters[user]=57542571&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1
https://s240.photobucket.com/user/byr...4.html?filters[user]=57542571&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0
https://s240.photobucket.com/user/byr...4.html?filters[user]=57542571&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2
It happened on the way to work with the old chain, and again with the new, so I don't think it's the chain.
It only happens on the largest chainring, which I use the least.
Rotating it at home, I saw the sticky spot and wondered if that was the cause, but I would be surprised if that caused the sound.
I checked the crank arms and there is no play, so the bb seems ok. I wondered if the arms may be spinning around the spindle, but the bottom bracket was new in July, bought with the crank and has the same mileage. Plus, the sound just sounds like a chain, I think the crank arms rotating would make a different sound.
Close to the house, I held the phone between my legs and tried to film it and I never got the image of it, but in the following three links, you can hear the click. It sounds like a gear change, but it's not.
https://s240.photobucket.com/user/byr...4.html?filters[user]=57542571&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=1
https://s240.photobucket.com/user/byr...4.html?filters[user]=57542571&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=0
https://s240.photobucket.com/user/byr...4.html?filters[user]=57542571&filters[recent]=1&sort=1&o=2
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When I got home, I flipped her over and ran the cranks and found that the chain is sticking to the chainring at one point when running in reverse, and having trouble seating when running forward. In the photo, you can see the chain not seating properly. Looking at the teeth in the other photo (I don't have a trained eye), nothing seems to be out of order.
#11
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Ok, I feel kinda dumb, I didn't look at the back side of the tooth, it does have a bur on it, that must be it. Should I just take a file to it?
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In the left photo it appears that there is one link that is not engaging the teeth well. My first thought was a tight link in the chain. But if there is a burr on that particular tooth that would be a better explanation.
#13
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I was thinking about a stiff link, too; probably from installation. It's happened with every chain I've worked on that didn't have a master link. The mechanic could easily flex the chain to eliminate the tight spot.
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The OP could mark the chain on either side of the chain roller that is not seated and then turn the cranks slowly and check to see if the same link has problems seating on the chainring or if different links have trouble seating on the same tooth. But if that tooth has an obvious burr that seems like the best answer.
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I think the bur definitely is the problem. I'll try to file it down and see if that corrects the problem, if not, I'll contact Sugino about a new chainring.
I do have another question though, having taken the bike to the lbs, should they have caught this in your opinion? They measured the chain and said it was worn, so I bought that thinking I needed it regardless, but I paid almost $50 with installation when I could have done it myself for under $30. I don't have any regrets, just curious. I did explain that it only happened on the outer ring.
I'm also wondering what may have caused it, perhaps a rock came up from the roadway. I would think that if the bur was there when I bought it, I would have noticed it long before now.
Thanks again all.
Jon
I do have another question though, having taken the bike to the lbs, should they have caught this in your opinion? They measured the chain and said it was worn, so I bought that thinking I needed it regardless, but I paid almost $50 with installation when I could have done it myself for under $30. I don't have any regrets, just curious. I did explain that it only happened on the outer ring.
I'm also wondering what may have caused it, perhaps a rock came up from the roadway. I would think that if the bur was there when I bought it, I would have noticed it long before now.
Thanks again all.
Jon