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How the heck do I get this thing off? Sekine crankset

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How the heck do I get this thing off? Sekine crankset

Old 10-29-13, 05:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Grand Bois
Cotters are best removed and replaced with a cotter press. They are correctly called cotters in the USA.
This.

I bought one of the last Park presses produced, Bikesmith makes an excellent cotter press and stocks high quality cotter pins.
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Old 10-29-13, 07:59 PM
  #27  
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^I don't believe that the OP will consider a cotter pin press. I'm getting a magnitude of cottered cranks in my "world" and I'll never justify getting one myself!
In other words, if I can't McGuyver it, it doesn't merit my time...
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Old 10-29-13, 09:41 PM
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Kickstand.
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Old 10-30-13, 08:38 AM
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How the heck do I get this thing off? Sekine crankset

Do you dislike my kickstand?
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Old 10-30-13, 09:30 AM
  #30  
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Canada.
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Old 10-30-13, 09:35 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by anixi
^I don't believe that the OP will consider a cotter pin press.
No, but if a local shop or co-op has one it may be worth using their tool.
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Old 10-30-13, 09:47 AM
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I don't think anybody's mentioned what a nightmare of a time you can have with a hammer and a jammed cotter pin made of cheese, all the best precautions notwithstanding.
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Old 10-30-13, 09:58 AM
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How the heck do I get this thing off? Sekine crankset

So I'm gathering that the best idea is to leave it alone. I'll do that.
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Old 10-30-13, 10:02 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson
No, but if a local shop or co-op has one it may be worth using their tool.
touche!
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Old 10-30-13, 11:52 AM
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I used to tap them out gently with a hammer. I would unscrew the nut so that the nut and end of the pin were flush. Then tap with a hammer so it hits both the nut & pin at the same time. That spreads the load around a bit and less likely to mash the end of the pin & threads.
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Old 10-30-13, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kimmo
I don't think anybody's mentioned what a nightmare of a time you can have with a hammer and a jammed cotter pin made of cheese, all the best precautions notwithstanding.
The secret is not to tap it, but to strike it hard, once. The cotter pins are not like bolts, they are softer steel so that they deform to the crank flats. Tapping them just bends them. Strike to remove, they fly out and the crank swings down. One of my favourite jobs in the workshop. The pins are often reusable this way, but if not, with new pins less than $1 each, no dramas were had that day.

- joel
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Old 10-30-13, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
I used to tap them out gently with a hammer. I would unscrew the nut so that the nut and end of the pin were flush. Then tap with a hammer so it hits both the nut & pin at the same time. That spreads the load around a bit and less likely to mash the end of the pin & threads.
Another precaution is to support the crank arm on something solid so the hammering force isn't absorbed by the frame and bottom bracket shell. A length of 1/2" or 3/4" steel pipe stood vertically under the crank arm so the cotter pin can be driven into its center works well.
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Old 10-30-13, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jammysosa
So I'm gathering that the best idea is to leave it alone. I'll do that.
I think so - apparently people just enjoy talking about cotter removal.
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Old 10-31-13, 02:56 AM
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The conversation gets that nostalgic blacksmithy vibe about it.
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Old 10-31-13, 11:06 AM
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If you don't want to spend on a press, you can take off both wheels, get an assistant and use a big vise and a 1/2" nut as a press.
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Old 10-31-13, 05:57 PM
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I use a bench vise and socket with great success. I always works and usually leaves the cotter in good enough condition to reuse. Search this forum or google it to see the details.

Cottered cranks are not substandard equipment. They work great but do take a bit more effort to disassemble. I am looking for a cottered steel crankset for my commuting bike to replace the square taper set. I have broken too many alloy cranks to trust aluminum any more.
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Old 11-01-13, 10:35 AM
  #42  
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Sheesh, guys, there's a lot of hate for cottered cranks here! Let me make a couple general points.

If you hate cotters and want to rid the world of cottered cranks, you are not the right person to answer the question of how to service a cottered crank.

If a crank hasn't been overhauled in many years, you are likely to have trouble. But this is a general rule, not unique to junky cottered cranks.

Junky bikes tend to have junky components, and for the last 30-40 years cottered cranks have been relegated to junky bikes. Not surprisingly, a lot of them are junky. Junky components are hard to work with. Again, this is a general rule, not unique to junky cottered cranks.

Sometimes, it all goes wrong, even if you use the right tools and the right techniques. You can minimize the chances of this by using the right tools, or you can maximize the chances of this by using the wrong tools. Again, a general rule.

Okay, all that said, If you actually own a bike with a cottered crank, and you intend to maintain it properly, you should know how to do it.

First step, put away the hammer. Yes, you can remove cotters with a hammer, but it's not the best tool for the job. You can also remove a square taper crank with a hammer, but it's not the best tool for the job.

The bench vise and socket method is a good way to go if you don't have a cotter press. A drill press vise is easier to handle and is strong enough for the job. A ball joint separator also works pretty well. A lot of guys have made an excellent cotter press from a cheap chain breaker, but that requires a bit of work with a drill and a file.

Last edited by rhm; 11-01-13 at 10:39 AM.
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