Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Rust Removal

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Rust Removal

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-11-13, 04:11 PM
  #1  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rust Removal

Hi guys I'm cleaning up my bike and could use some help removing the rust. I'm using vinegar for the unpainted and smaller parts which works great but the parts start rusting again almost immediately after I wash them off. What are some things I can do to prevent this?

Also, I'm trying to get some rust off of the forks. I am hesitant to sand the area for fear of removing the grooves. Is the vinegar approach safe for the paint? Other suggestions?

Thanks

Last edited by laserspeed; 02-17-14 at 10:09 AM.
laserspeed is offline  
Old 11-11-13, 04:32 PM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,703

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5777 Post(s)
Liked 2,575 Times in 1,426 Posts
Once you remove the rust with acid (vinegar) you have to rinse thoroughly, dry and protect the bare metal with wax or an oil film. (at least until you're ready to touch up with paint). I also do a rinse with baking soda & water to neutralize any remaining acid, but I don't know if it's necessary if rinsed well enough.

As for the fork (singular, the same as the one you eat with), vinegar won't etch out the metal enough to affect the texture. The so-called groves are actually emboss marks from the serrations in the QR, and even if sanded smooth (would take a while), would be pressed back in by the skewer, assuming you're using the same one.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is online now  
Old 11-11-13, 04:49 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
dsbrantjr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319

Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta

Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times in 723 Posts
Instead of just removing rust and leaving vulnerable bare metal behind you can use a "rust converter" to change the rust to a so-called conversion coating which is tenacious, resists further rusting and which holds paint well.
dsbrantjr is offline  
Old 11-11-13, 07:39 PM
  #4  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Great suggestions! Looking forward to the result
laserspeed is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thrasher9905
Classic & Vintage
7
05-18-15 01:56 PM
jayjay8
Classic & Vintage
4
05-30-11 07:57 PM
vins0010
Bicycle Mechanics
1
11-23-10 03:38 AM
cg1985
Classic & Vintage
6
07-30-10 05:55 AM
sjpitts
Classic & Vintage
6
03-04-10 08:08 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.