Miche Primato bb install question
#1
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Miche Primato bb install question
Hey guys,
This is probably not even worth asking about, but I just to be sure. (I've looked around with the part number, and all I've found are places that stock it rather than installation instructions). I have this bottom bracket to install:
I see that indented ring on the main enclosure, and I wonder whether it should indicate something to me. Can anyone confirm whether it should go to the drive side, non-drive side, or doesn't matter? Should the side of the enclosure with the indented ring go in the cup that also has a slight indented ring on its inside (left in the photo)?
Thanks!
This is probably not even worth asking about, but I just to be sure. (I've looked around with the part number, and all I've found are places that stock it rather than installation instructions). I have this bottom bracket to install:
I see that indented ring on the main enclosure, and I wonder whether it should indicate something to me. Can anyone confirm whether it should go to the drive side, non-drive side, or doesn't matter? Should the side of the enclosure with the indented ring go in the cup that also has a slight indented ring on its inside (left in the photo)?
Thanks!
#2
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Well this is only a guess but- First the cups are easy to tell which side they go on. The LH threaded cup goes into the drive side (as the BB is for a BSC shell). Then the axle/bearing unit is installed. Usually if there's a difference in axle length, extending past the bearing unit, the longer side goes into the drive side cup. then the second, RH threaded, cup goes into the non drive side of the shell.
It's easy to assume that the grooved end of the unit matches up with the grooved cup. But a measurement should confirm if this is not wrong. Ultimately there's no wrong way as long as the crank arms/rings are located the proper distance from the frame's centerline and chainstays. Dry fit first then while leaving one cup in place remove the other, lube/anti seize/lock tite (your preference) the removed cup back in place and repeate with the second cup. This way the axle/bearing unit it kept in the same location while the final cup installing is done. Andy.
It's easy to assume that the grooved end of the unit matches up with the grooved cup. But a measurement should confirm if this is not wrong. Ultimately there's no wrong way as long as the crank arms/rings are located the proper distance from the frame's centerline and chainstays. Dry fit first then while leaving one cup in place remove the other, lube/anti seize/lock tite (your preference) the removed cup back in place and repeate with the second cup. This way the axle/bearing unit it kept in the same location while the final cup installing is done. Andy.
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As Andrew says, you don't have a choice about the rings because they're right and left threaded and can only go on their respective sides of your BB shell. The cartridge can go either way according to the desired chain line, but the original version had the grooved side go into the grooved cup.
When this BB first came out years ago, they used to pre-assemble one cup onto the cartridge, and retain it via a steel spring clip trapped in the grooves. Some time later they decided this wasn't necessary and now sell it with both cups loose.
BTW- be sure to apply grease between the cups and cartridge. Otherwise water wicks into the gap causing corrosion which binds the cups to the cartridge. It's not terrible if one cup gets stuck to the cartridge, but if both bind, you'll need extraordinary methods to remove the BB.
When this BB first came out years ago, they used to pre-assemble one cup onto the cartridge, and retain it via a steel spring clip trapped in the grooves. Some time later they decided this wasn't necessary and now sell it with both cups loose.
BTW- be sure to apply grease between the cups and cartridge. Otherwise water wicks into the gap causing corrosion which binds the cups to the cartridge. It's not terrible if one cup gets stuck to the cartridge, but if both bind, you'll need extraordinary methods to remove the BB.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I found this on another site;apparently if not installed properly the Miche BB can come loose.
https://www.lfgss.com/thread9463.html
Hey
The Primato bb needs a good mechanic to install. You could have cleaned the alloy threaded cups when you got it, then put a few drips of Threadlock no.242 on both sides of those 2 cups, let dry overnight, then clean your frame shell of any old grease and dirt, then simply grease the cup threads that have dried for 24 hrs, then install with the campy cassette tool, adapted to a torque wrench, and tighten both sides after selecting chainline, to 50 Nm both right and left.
Keep in mind its sealed fairly well, but not for riding in rain, its a TRACK bottom bracket.
Jack of CT USA
The Primato bb needs a good mechanic to install. You could have cleaned the alloy threaded cups when you got it, then put a few drips of Threadlock no.242 on both sides of those 2 cups, let dry overnight, then clean your frame shell of any old grease and dirt, then simply grease the cup threads that have dried for 24 hrs, then install with the campy cassette tool, adapted to a torque wrench, and tighten both sides after selecting chainline, to 50 Nm both right and left.
Keep in mind its sealed fairly well, but not for riding in rain, its a TRACK bottom bracket.
Jack of CT USA
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I think the coming loose concerns just mentioned are more to do with that it's a threaded assembly that gets significant forces AND not that there's some inherent design or detail that is unique to this BB. If the BB and shell were French threaded I'd be talking differently. So with this in mind traditional assembly methods should work well. Note in my first post I did mention possible use of assembly compounds. I don't go to a thread locking compound unless i must. Good lubing of threads and periodic maintenance is all that I've needed (excepting Phil BBs, French shells and non threaded ones). Andy.
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Hey guys,
This is probably not even worth asking about, but I just to be sure. (I've looked around with the part number, and all I've found are places that stock it rather than installation instructions). I have this bottom bracket to install:
I see that indented ring on the main enclosure, and I wonder whether it should indicate something to me. Can anyone confirm whether it should go to the drive side, non-drive side, or doesn't matter? Should the side of the enclosure with the indented ring go in the cup that also has a slight indented ring on its inside (left in the photo)?
Thanks!
This is probably not even worth asking about, but I just to be sure. (I've looked around with the part number, and all I've found are places that stock it rather than installation instructions). I have this bottom bracket to install:
I see that indented ring on the main enclosure, and I wonder whether it should indicate something to me. Can anyone confirm whether it should go to the drive side, non-drive side, or doesn't matter? Should the side of the enclosure with the indented ring go in the cup that also has a slight indented ring on its inside (left in the photo)?
Thanks!
Further, since the Miche has two threaded installation rings allowing an adjustable chain line, I would use the installation instructions for the similar Phil Wood BB. https://www.philwood.com/philpdfs/cra...ationguide.pdf
Last edited by onespeedbiker; 11-13-13 at 09:21 PM.