BTW, when I spoke of powdercoating earlier, I was going on what I'd read on the Internet, and not experience. I just learned of a place near me that works with the local bike rehab/co-op place. They do frames for $45. I suspect that doesn't include removing the old finish, but you've already done that to yours. Also, they can do metallics and candies now (though perhaps not for $45). You might see if you have a local powdercoater and have them quote you.
I didn't have the tool to pop out those bearing cups in the head set (what's that tool called again - basically 4 spreading prongs you hit with a hammer?), but the bike shop did it in seconds for no charge. So I've finally got ALL the parts off and am detail cleaning the paint off. Tedious work, but the little dremel (Craftsman)- type tool with the right attachments is helping a lot. Think I'll try to call around to a couple of local autobody shops today to see if they'd mind painting a bicycle frame.
Hmmm...might have to get one of those. They don't call me the_tool_man for nothing.
Not trying to talk you out of paint. Just thought the information might be useful for someone.
looks alot better than my 78 when i found it
UPDATE: Well, I've got all the paint stripped off the frame and fork. Took it to Palms Cyles in Los Angeles this afternoon. They'll powdercoat and clear coat it for $150. Expensive in the Midwest; not so expensive in southern California. I've also ordered the "NISHIKI" decals from Velocal.
Meantime, I'm cleaning up the various parts. The front derailleur is apparently shot; see photo below. Does anyone know of a source for a new one? The old one says "Suntour" and "Spirt" on the side of the cage. I believe this type is called a "high normal" derailleur, but I'm not sure. Thanks - this is a 1980 Nishiki Sport with a 7-speed rear sprocket and hub assembly.
"Sprint" was one of Sun Tours lower-mid line component groups. I think Sun Tour played around with high-normal (spring loaded toward the largest chainring) fds for awhile but they were unusual even for Sun Tour. The idea was that both the front and rear shifters moved the same way to accomplish up or down shifts. However, you are unlikely to find one and there is no real advantage if you do.
If you have friction front shifting just about any current road front derailleur with the proper clamp diameter will do.
"Another interesting part came in 1966, Sun Tour's Spirt (not Sprint, or Spirit) front derailleur. It was a "top normal" derailleur, in that you move the lever opposite the usual direction to shift up or down. Thus both shift levers move the chain to a higher gear when pressed forward. Apparently the Spirt was produced for some time."
Anyway, as I mentioned in your other thread, you don't need any cable stops to use a standard low normal bottom pull front derailleur.
The frame, stripped of paint, was taken to Palms Cycles in Los Angeles yesterday. $150 for powder coat and finish clear coat.
Does that shop do frame repairs and/or modifications? If so you might have them braze on downtube shifter bosses before they powder coat it. I had this done to an '85 Bridgestone frame that originally had clamp-on dt shifters and it opened up a whole world of shifter options.
Yeah, there's some who don't have people skills, but mostly it's a great bunch.
As far as your Nishiki project goes, looks like you've got a good base to start with, better components than the '86 Nishiki Rally I paid $60 for. Mine was one step up from the bottom level bike, had this stamped steel chainring that was junk and bent, had cheap stem shifters, okay brakes and levers. The frame was in good shape and needed no repainting. My project work was looking in my parts bin and pulling out an old SuperMaxy alloy crankset, a set of high-polished Dia-Compe brakes that had the quick-release mechanism, an old set of Weinmann levers that had the drilled pattern, a clamp-on down-tube shifter to replace the cheap stem shifters, and a longer-reach alloy stem. Some new cables for $7, one rear bearing set for $7, bar tape for $9, new gumwall tires for $30, and a lot of cleanup and re-lubing.
Total cost to me for a bike that fits me and rides well, looks great, and I'm happy to own - $113. To be honest, I'd never repaint a frame, I like the character of the nicks and dings, kind of like an old well-broken-in seat. Get the rust off, touch up the worst spots, shine up the shiny stuff, clean and lube. That's what I do with them.
Good luck with your project, It's a good base to start with, far as I'm concerned. I liked it like you got it.