scottz123

I have a 1995 Kona Kapu road bike with Campy Veloce that I use on trainer.

I want to upgrade the bottom bracket (showin in picture below) to accept Shimano Hollowtech cranks (if possible)

The frame measures 70mm and what I can measure on outside of BB shown measures approx 34.5mm o.d.

1) is it possible to install BB to accept Hollowtech cranks?

2)can anyone point me to tools and direction to do this? (remove old BB and install hollowtech BB)

3) Shimano Ultegra or 105 OK for this?

HillRider

Measure your frame's bottom bracket shell again and you should get 68 mm. I'd be VERY surprised if it isn't a standard English threaded 68 mm bottom bracket. If the current bb is a Campy Veloce, from that period it should be a cup-and-cone type and removal will require a lockring spanner, pin spanner and a fixed cup spanner. For a one-time removal, I'd have an LBS do the job as buying the tools isn't worth it for a single use.

Assuming it is an English bottom bracket any of the Shimano Hollowtech II cranks and bottom brackets should fit. 105 or Ultegra are fine and the crank and bb don't have to be from the same group. Suitable external bearing installation tools include Shimano's TL-FC32 or Park's BBT-9 or BBT-19. You will also need the Shimano TL-FC16 to set the non-drive side arm torque and Park's BBT-9 has this tool built in. A torque wrench and a 5 mm Allen key bit is needed to torque the nds clamp bolts properly.

fietsbob

Why? Whats wrong with those cranks?

Phil Wood.. then its rebuildable.

well biked

If it is indeed 70mm wide, it's probably a 68mm Engish threaded shell with a millimeter or so of paint buildup on each side to cause it to measure 70mm. A good candidate to have faced with a bb chasing/facing tool at the LBS, more than likely. Particularly when installing external bb cups such as Hollowtech II.

fietsbob

buy 2 sets of tools, 1 to remove, and a separate ones to install ..

scottz123

Looks like it is 68mm - BB does say Japan on it.

But thinking into this more not looking practical w/hollowtech 10spd cranks. The rest of bike is 8spd campy.

Sounds like I am better off buying used 10 spd shimano bike?

My goal was to put hollowtech crank on bike with power meter (stages) built into crank arm

well biked

Small point: "Hollowtech" was the name for Shimano cranks from the Octalink era. "Hollowtech II" cranks are from the outboard bearing bb era. Completely different bb systems. The name "Hollowtech", in both cases, comes from an engineered-for-strength-and-low-weight hollow crankarm design.

reptilezs

you can do it but might get a little more rub in the cross chain combos

fietsbob

get the whole kit Crank and BB and the widget from the same seller make sure it all works together, that way.

HillRider

Buy them for only one use? Why?

scottz123

Thanks for heads up. I was using term to loosely. I want to use "Hollowtech II"

Upon closer inspection - BB is a Shimano 1.37 68

you guys are right - I could run 8spd chain on 10spd chainrings

Darth Lefty 

Yeah but for the price you can buy a box full of regular sealed cartridge BB.

fietsbob

And throw each away in turn. "why do you hate America?"


Precisely , , a bike shop trip saves on the single use tool buy.

HillRider

None of us "hate America" but we do disapprove of needless extravagance. Shimano cartridge bottom brackets are low in initial cost durable to the point where throwing them away will take years for each one. Rebuilding a Phil Wood bb will cost as much or more than a replacement Shimano. You are such a Phi Wood partisan you don't see they aren't the answer to every question.

scottz123

BB on bike now says 'BC 1.37 68 VIA TF shimano' is it safe to say this is 24 tpi?

well biked

Yes, it's a 68mm English threaded bottom bracket, 24 tpi. If you install outboard bearing bb cups, it would be a good idea to go to a shop and have the frame's bb shell faced. From your photo, I can see paint on the face of the shell, and it would be a good idea to get that cleaned up with a facing tool. It's important to have the faces of the shell parallel with each other, within very close tolerances, when using outboard bearing cups.

fietsbob

only Raleigh did 26 tpi (because they could?)