Stuck seat post! solutions ?
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Stuck seat post! solutions ?
Stuck seat post on a 1976 Nishiki International , any solutions? aside from sheldon brown.
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Every method works, SOMETIMES. Ultimately, cutting it out is the only method that always works. Hopefully yours won't be stuck that bad (I am cutting one out right now).
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Hopefully it doesn't resort to cutting since I'm unable to get a new seat post due to lack of funds lol.
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This is going to sound hokey but try Marvel Mystery Oil. Heat the seat post with a heat gun ( hair dryer won't cut it ) as close to the seat tube as you can but watch the paint so you don't scorch it. Squirt some MMO around the top of the tube and give it a good solid smack with a large hammer and a block of wood or brass punch, apply more MMO and let it sit overnight. If you have access to a slide hammer and a way to attach it to the seat post that might work better in this application. Do this everyday until it breaks loose. I did this on a pivot shaft on an antique tractor that had set out in the weather for years. I did this for 5 days without any sign of movement and was ready to call it BS, on day 6 I decided to give it one more try and then move on to something else. I went through the routine, smacked it with a hammer and it went shooting out the other side across the garage. Obviously on the bike you have to pull it out from the top but once you get it to move then you should be able to get it pulled out. I have since used MMO on several stuck parts with excellent success. Be advised if you put it in a squirt can that the stuff will creep through the threads of the container over time so store the squirt can inside a coffee can or something when not in use, otherwise it gets all over the shelf.
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A mechanic at an auto service station with an air hammer would get that post out in about 5 seconds. If you really can't (or, more likely, prefer not to) spend 20 bucks for a new post, figure out some way to cover the bottom of the seatpost clamp to protect it from being damaged by the air hammer.
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My go-to penetrating oil is Kano Labs' Kroil. Second best is PB Blaster.
Marvel Mystery Oil was originally developed as a gasoline additive to clean carburetor jets and was found useful in helping piston rings to seal properly.
While MMO may also be useful in freeing seized or corroded metal parts I prefer to use products designed from the start to do the job at hand. Just my two cents.
Patience and perseverance are your best allies in jobs such as stuck seatposts.
Marvel Mystery Oil was originally developed as a gasoline additive to clean carburetor jets and was found useful in helping piston rings to seal properly.
While MMO may also be useful in freeing seized or corroded metal parts I prefer to use products designed from the start to do the job at hand. Just my two cents.
Patience and perseverance are your best allies in jobs such as stuck seatposts.
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As mentioned there are a few ways to free a stuck post but to add to the artillery try setting the bike upside down and pouring some iced water through the BB into the seatube to get the post nice and cold. Then turn the bike upright, drain the water and pour some boiling water over the outside of the seatube and try to twist the post. It's cheap and easy, won't damage anything so worth a try. Best to use some Kroil or penetrant for a couple of days first to increase your odds of success. I've heard some people are also having success with the Freeze Sprays available at car parts stores too. As an example but other brands have their own versions; https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05002-Free...reeze+it+spray
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I have all kinds of air tools so I'll try it. I'm going to try every way possible way that's "free" to me before i start spending $. I have a vice , air tools, but i will invest in some PB blaster asap though.
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ya dont want to use an airhammer lol u can damage the frame
I cut one out one time,,I spent about 15 minutes for about 15 days in a row till I finally got it out,,had to cut it on 2 sides lol it is the only sure fire way
I cut one out one time,,I spent about 15 minutes for about 15 days in a row till I finally got it out,,had to cut it on 2 sides lol it is the only sure fire way
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It's finally out! its been about two weeks and about gave up hope, thats why i posted here to see what advice other people could offer , it soaked in some wd40 , I tapped it once with a hammer and piece of wood used a screwdriver to pry (slightly) apart the seat post clamp, noticed it wiggle a little and managed to use vise grips on it without destroying the post. Not to mention the weather here in Tennessee went from 70 degrees one day then the next it was in the high 20's . that might have had something to do with it. lol thanks for all the tips guys!!! I appreciate it!
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You where lucky. It wasn't really stuck if a tap of a hammer sorted it. Wait till you come across one that is really stuck
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It's finally out! its been about two weeks and about gave up hope, thats why i posted here to see what advice other people could offer , it soaked in some wd40 , I tapped it once with a hammer and piece of wood used a screwdriver to pry (slightly) apart the seat post clamp, noticed it wiggle a little and managed to use vise grips on it without destroying the post. Not to mention the weather here in Tennessee went from 70 degrees one day then the next it was in the high 20's . that might have had something to do with it. lol thanks for all the tips guys!!! I appreciate it!
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No doubt about that! I even put the post in a vice a few weeks ago and it didn't budge . I don't care how it just so happened to break loose with little effort today but I'm thankful it did.
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There are thousands of items we use everyday for purposes other than what they were originally designed for. Mechanics discovered a MMO was an excellent penetrating oil several decades ago. I know a lot of people that use it for a multitude of purposes but you probably couldn't pay them to put it in their fuel tank LOL.
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#19
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WHAT WORKED FOR ME
Since this is the most current thread on an age old problem, I thought I would add my experience here regarding a seized 26.6mm integrated clamp aluminum post in a $25 vintage chromoly Specialized Hard Rock MTB.
1. Tried WD40, PB Blaster and Freeze Off over a two week period, no progress. I tried a torch too, but no help. Broke off the saddle clamp with big wrenches.
2. Tried the plugged tube with ammonia trick. Fuggedaboutit.
3. Bought a fine hacksaw blade, but too slow and what I thought was too long a post.
4. Bought a long reciprocating saw blade, about 12". Make sure it is not too tall so it will fit in the seat tube. 14-18 tooth demo wood/nail blade in a Makita variable speed sawzall, $4 at HD. Go slow, check every 30 seconds or so with a flashlight when you get near the seat tube itself. I made two cuts along the length of the aluminum tube.
The black crescent wrench is 12"
Since this is the most current thread on an age old problem, I thought I would add my experience here regarding a seized 26.6mm integrated clamp aluminum post in a $25 vintage chromoly Specialized Hard Rock MTB.
1. Tried WD40, PB Blaster and Freeze Off over a two week period, no progress. I tried a torch too, but no help. Broke off the saddle clamp with big wrenches.
2. Tried the plugged tube with ammonia trick. Fuggedaboutit.
3. Bought a fine hacksaw blade, but too slow and what I thought was too long a post.
4. Bought a long reciprocating saw blade, about 12". Make sure it is not too tall so it will fit in the seat tube. 14-18 tooth demo wood/nail blade in a Makita variable speed sawzall, $4 at HD. Go slow, check every 30 seconds or so with a flashlight when you get near the seat tube itself. I made two cuts along the length of the aluminum tube.
The black crescent wrench is 12"
Last edited by oddjob2; 12-16-13 at 10:29 PM.
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Thanks for sharing. I have one right now I have been using a hacksaw blade on, very tedious. I think I will try the long blade in my recip saw instead. Frame is nothing great, but decent.
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