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Old 12-18-13, 08:01 AM   #1
werwer2012
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How do I remove a 3 speed rear wheel

I have an old Supercycle that I need to remove the rear wheel on it but I have never attempted to do this before and not sure how to. Last thing I want is to mess it up. Here is a picture of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 12-18-13, 08:32 AM   #2
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You see that angled thingy that the wire hooks up to?
In 2nd gear, there should be a symbol in the angled thingy that lines up nicely with a cutout in the housing that holds the angled thingy.
If you can identify the marking and its reference you know what to shoot for when reinstalling the wheel. Now, unhook the wire by holding the locknut(closest to the angled thingy) firm and turning the sleeve. Then back out the axle nuts a few turns and pop the wheel out. Doesn't seem to be any coaster brake reaction arm to worry about.
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Old 12-18-13, 08:32 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by werwer2012 View Post
I have an old Supercycle that I need to remove the rear wheel on it but I have never attempted to do this before and not sure how to. Last thing I want is to mess it up. Here is a picture of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Read Sheldon Brown's tech advice on the SA/AW hub:

"When you remove and re-install a rear wheel with an internal-gear hub, pay particular attention to the axle washers." etc.

http://sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_tech.html

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Old 12-18-13, 09:05 AM   #4
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Bandera that is a Shimano not Strumey Archer hub. Roger
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Old 12-18-13, 09:09 AM   #5
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Bandera that is a Shimano not Strumey Archer hub. Roger
Duh. Putting one's contact lenses in does wonders for clarity, thanks.

2nd try, Sheldon Brown on Shimano:

http://sheldonbrown.com/shimano333.html

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Old 12-18-13, 10:25 AM   #6
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wrench, on the axle nuts , loosen them . remove wheel .. the shift thing on the end unscrews too .

another bike left in the Barn for 20 years.

Last edited by fietsbob; 12-18-13 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 12-18-13, 07:43 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dabac View Post
You see that angled thingy that the wire hooks up to?
In 2nd gear, there should be a symbol in the angled thingy that lines up nicely with a cutout in the housing that holds the angled thingy.
If you can identify the marking and its reference you know what to shoot for when reinstalling the wheel. Now, unhook the wire by holding the locknut(closest to the angled thingy) firm and turning the sleeve. Then back out the axle nuts a few turns and pop the wheel out. Doesn't seem to be any coaster brake reaction arm to worry about.
All my trigger shifter says on it is 1, 2 and 3. There are no symbols on it. So do I still put it in number 2 position then loosen the nut near the wire, to get the assembly off. I read the article from Sheldon Brown but it doesn't say how to take the rear wheel off the bike so I can change the tube and tire.

Greg
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Old 12-18-13, 08:04 PM   #8
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Old 12-18-13, 09:46 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by werwer2012 View Post
All my trigger shifter says on it is 1, 2 and 3. There are no symbols on it. So do I still put it in number 2 position then loosen the nut near the wire, to get the assembly off. I read the article from Sheldon Brown but it doesn't say how to take the rear wheel off the bike so I can change the tube and tire.

Greg
It's actually easiest if you put the selector on 3 so the cable is loose. then just unscrew the cable from the indicator assembly and remove the wheel. You don't have to worry about the trigger being on 2 until you reinstall the wheel and you're ready to adjust. Once you detach the cable it's not much different than removing any rear wheel.
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Old 12-18-13, 11:09 PM   #10
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looks (peering into the darkness) like the cable is rusted , if the barrel adjuster will not unscrew.

cut the cable.. you will need a new one anyhow.
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Old 12-19-13, 05:54 AM   #11
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Thanks to everyone for the help. I get a little nervous about touching anything if I'm not familar with it. Has I don't want to mess it up so it doesn't work anymore. Even though these are low end bikes I still like to fix them up and give them to people in need.
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Old 12-19-13, 10:27 AM   #12
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All my trigger shifter says on it is 1, 2 and 3. There are no symbols on it.
I was referring to the the angled metal thingy attached to the rear axle, in your pic. That has to be in a certain position whent he shift lever is at it's 2 position. If you take a look at this while the bike is working you know what to shoot for when putting the wheel back.
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Old 12-19-13, 10:37 AM   #13
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I was referring to the the angled metal thingy attached to the rear axle, in your pic. That has to be in a certain position whent he shift lever is at it's 2 position. If you take a look at this while the bike is working you know what to shoot for when putting the wheel back.
Thanks for that info.
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Old 12-19-13, 11:31 AM   #14
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Just to add something not yet mentioned. When you reinstall the wheel you have o center it in the frame, and pull it back so there's the proper chain slack (not tension).

Pull the wheel back, so the chain is just slightly slack and sags in the center about 1/4" or so. Test with your fingers, then tighten the wheel just enough so i won't move, but don't tighten full yet. Now turn the cranks and you'll see the sag change slightly because the chaining isn't perfectly round. Find the tightest place, and test with your finger that there's still some free vertical play at the center. If so, tighten the wheel, connect the cable and adjust the gears. Otherwise correct the wheel position.

Once you've done this once or twice, you'll have a good feel for the job wan will be able to center the wheel and get the right chain slack without thinking.
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Old 12-19-13, 01:39 PM   #15
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Just to add something not yet mentioned. When you reinstall the wheel you have o center it in the frame, and pull it back so there's the proper chain slack (not tension).

Pull the wheel back, so the chain is just slightly slack and sags in the center about 1/4" or so. Test with your fingers, then tighten the wheel just enough so i won't move, but don't tighten full yet. Now turn the cranks and you'll see the sag change slightly because the chaining isn't perfectly round. Find the tightest place, and test with your finger that there's still some free vertical play at the center. If so, tighten the wheel, connect the cable and adjust the gears. Otherwise correct the wheel position.

Once you've done this once or twice, you'll have a good feel for the job wan will be able to center the wheel and get the right chain slack without thinking.
Thanks for the extra information.
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