Torque wrenches
#1
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Torque wrenches
What would be the best choice or choices for a torque wrench for the home mechanic? I have been researching these and can't seem to get a clear consensus. Thoughts please.
#3
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Higher end, American made, click type; you're $120-150. Asian made budget model, $50-80 ballpark. The guy in the post above found one for $25. I've never seen one that cheap.
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Digital, click type, or beam? What brand and have you had experience with any or all? Thanks.
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#6
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PITTSBUR...item35cd2b05df
may not be the best, but it gets the job done.
may not be the best, but it gets the job done.
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How about digital adapters?
#8
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I have and use both types of torque wrenches. Used properly they both will do exactly what they're supposed to. For circumstances where I can't clearly observe the dial on the wrench I'll use a clicker, particularly if it's a high torque effort such as a bottom bracket. For low torque jobs like stem and handlebar bolts, I use a fixed torque key like the Ritchey model.
#10
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For a home mechanic, a fixed value 5 Nm wrench works well for most basic bike stuff.
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You won't get a consensus because we all have our own opinions, running from my retro grouch skill trumps tools approach, to those who spring for the latest and greatest digital gadget.
I still don't use torque wrenches because I can "read" the load on the bolt as I tighten, but if I wee to use a torque wrench I'd opt for the simplicity and reliability of a flex beam type.
Click type torque wrenches are nice if you want to tighten a series of bolts to the same torque, like an auto mechanic would when tightening the eight bolts on a head. However, on a bicycle you're usually tightening only one or two bolts to a given torque, then other bolts to other torques, so you'd be spending all your time resetting the torque wrench instead of putting the bicycle together.
I still don't use torque wrenches because I can "read" the load on the bolt as I tighten, but if I wee to use a torque wrench I'd opt for the simplicity and reliability of a flex beam type.
Click type torque wrenches are nice if you want to tighten a series of bolts to the same torque, like an auto mechanic would when tightening the eight bolts on a head. However, on a bicycle you're usually tightening only one or two bolts to a given torque, then other bolts to other torques, so you'd be spending all your time resetting the torque wrench instead of putting the bicycle together.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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I was responsible for maintaining and checking calibration for 300 torque wrenches in a manufacturing facility that made components for John Deere, Caterpillar, Case New Holland and TACOM for about 15 years. We used several different brands and types from cheap Chinese junk to high dollar Belknap, Sturtevant Richmonts and CDI wrenches. For home use my personal favorites based on my experiences would be Proto or MAC Tools clicker wrenches. They seemed to hold their calibration the best of the retail type wrenches although the last few Protos we bought had some ratchet issues. What surprised me was that the Snap On wrenches didn't hold their calibration as well as the others. The cheap Chinese stuff was so bad I told the Industrial Engineers not to bother buying them because most were out of cal right out of the package and none of them lasted more than 6 months before they literally fell apart. I'd never buy a used torque wrench unless I had access to a torque analyzer so I could test them. I now have my own so I can check my own wrenches periodically and if I'm considering buying a used wrench I can test it for accuracy before I buy it.
Based on the similarity in appearance of that wrench to some of the better wrenches I've dealt with over the years I'd be willing to give one of those a try. In fact I think I'll order one of the 1/4" drive versions and test it.
Just ordered this one.......... $19.95 with free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/261286764624
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PITTSBUR...item35cd2b05df
may not be the best, but it gets the job done.
may not be the best, but it gets the job done.
Just ordered this one.......... $19.95 with free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/261286764624
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Last edited by Murray Missile; 12-24-13 at 10:41 PM.
#13
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I was responsible for maintaining and checking calibration for 300 torque wrenches in a manufacturing facility that made components for John Deere, Caterpillar, Case New Holland and TACOM for about 15 years. We used several different brands and types from cheap Chinese junk to high dollar Belknap, Sturtevant Richmonts and CDI wrenches. For home use my personal favorites based on my experiences would be Proto or MAC Tools clicker wrenches. They seemed to hold their calibration the best of the retail type wrenches although the last few Protos we bought had some ratchet issues. What surprised me was that the Snap On wrenches didn't hold their calibration as well as the others. The cheap Chinese stuff was so bad I told the Industrial Engineers not to bother buying them because most were out of cal right out of the package and none of them lasted more than 6 months before they literally fell apart. I'd never buy a used torque wrench unless I had access to a torque analyzer so I could test them. I now have my own so I can check my own wrenches periodically and if I'm considering buying a used wrench I can test it for accuracy before I buy it.
Based on the similarity in appearance of that wrench to some of the better wrenches I've dealt with over the years I'd be willing to give one of those a try. In fact I think I'll order one of the 1/4" drive versions and test it.
Just ordered this one.......... $19.95 with free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/261286764624
Based on the similarity in appearance of that wrench to some of the better wrenches I've dealt with over the years I'd be willing to give one of those a try. In fact I think I'll order one of the 1/4" drive versions and test it.
Just ordered this one.......... $19.95 with free shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/261286764624
Let me know if the calibration is good on it. If its crap, I'll stop using it!
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I've a tool chest full of high quality tools for my motorcycle work.
I noted that my 1/4 drive torque wrench only went down to 5nm. So I ordered one of these. Came in the other day, havent' used it yet, but it seems very well made.
https://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-...+torque+wrench
I noted that my 1/4 drive torque wrench only went down to 5nm. So I ordered one of these. Came in the other day, havent' used it yet, but it seems very well made.
https://www.amazon.com/VENZO-Bicycle-...+torque+wrench
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It's of very limited use and mostly just for stem and handlebar clamps. For things like cassette lockrings, bottom bracket cups, crank fixing bolts (square taper, Octalink and external bearing types) etc, it's totally inadequate.
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One absolute I will offer is this, "Westwind" wrenches sold through Grainger about 5 years ago are CRAP and some of the super cheap wrenches I saw at WalMart during the same period are just chrome plated versions of the same junk. I don't know if they're still selling those, I'll see if I can find pictures of them and post them. You definitely want to avoid those.
Went to the Grainger site, their wrenches are "Westward" not Westwind, sorry. But it appears they have switched suppliers for the torque wrenches, probably because the others were such junk. The old ones had a flattened wrench body with a satin finish, the WalMart versions were chrome. The new ones look very similar to most of the better commercial wrenches with a chrome finish and round wrench body. I have had no experience with what they currently sell.
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Last edited by Murray Missile; 12-25-13 at 09:10 AM.
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The eBay wrench is the same as Harbor Fright Pittsburgh for $9.99 I have one & an SK (US made) both read very close to one another . you do need a coupon for that price
I rarely use one on a bike though
Cheers all
I rarely use one on a bike though
Cheers all
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For bicycle use there are two, quite different uses for torque wrenches:
The first is for bottom brackets and cranks. Left to my own judgement I might easily under torque them. (Particularly crankarms, if you're using a 6" allen key, you aren't getting 30 ft/lbs.) They require around 30 ft/lb. You need a pretty big wrench just to get to 30 ft/lb.
The second use is relatively delicate high end stems and carbon fiber parts. That stuff sometimes falls into the 5 ft/lb range and, left to my own judgement, I might overcook it.
I don't really see the same torque wrench as being appropriate for both purposes.
The first is for bottom brackets and cranks. Left to my own judgement I might easily under torque them. (Particularly crankarms, if you're using a 6" allen key, you aren't getting 30 ft/lbs.) They require around 30 ft/lb. You need a pretty big wrench just to get to 30 ft/lb.
The second use is relatively delicate high end stems and carbon fiber parts. That stuff sometimes falls into the 5 ft/lb range and, left to my own judgement, I might overcook it.
I don't really see the same torque wrench as being appropriate for both purposes.
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How about the topeak DX wrench? Very large range-
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Not familiar with that wrench but "very large range" doesn't make much sense to me.
If you're using a wrench that was designed to be used in the 5 ft/lb range, it might be too small to crank up to 30 ft/lbs. A big wrench, that's designed for 30 ft/lbs, might be too awkward for precise use in the 5 ft/lb range.
If you're using a wrench that was designed to be used in the 5 ft/lb range, it might be too small to crank up to 30 ft/lbs. A big wrench, that's designed for 30 ft/lbs, might be too awkward for precise use in the 5 ft/lb range.
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FWIW: It's pretty easy to rig up a lever arm on a torque wrench and use a known good scale (e.g. fish scale) to check wrench calibration at a few points. Similarly, if you need to torque something that you can't fit a socket on (e.g. Garmin Vector power meter pedals), you can use a wrench that works and a scale to apply the required torque. Of course you might be able to use a crow's foot adapter on your torque wrench for applications like this, but if you do, it's best to correct the torque for effect of the crow's foot.
Not giving a how-to or listing the caveats here. If you can confidently figure out how to do these things, go for it. Otherwise, perhaps not.
Not giving a how-to or listing the caveats here. If you can confidently figure out how to do these things, go for it. Otherwise, perhaps not.
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Not familiar with that wrench but "very large range" doesn't make much sense to me.
If you're using a wrench that was designed to be used in the 5 ft/lb range, it might be too small to crank up to 30 ft/lbs. A big wrench, that's designed for 30 ft/lbs, might be too awkward for precise use in the 5 ft/lb range.
If you're using a wrench that was designed to be used in the 5 ft/lb range, it might be too small to crank up to 30 ft/lbs. A big wrench, that's designed for 30 ft/lbs, might be too awkward for precise use in the 5 ft/lb range.
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#24
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If you do Bottom Brackets the scale for 3/8 drive pegs the beam , then you need a 1/2"
so get all 3 ..
so get all 3 ..
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Found pictures of a wrench that looks like the Westward and WalMart wrenches I mentioned to stay away from.............
The brand name is different but it sure looks like the same thing.
The brand name is different but it sure looks like the same thing.
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