Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    52
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Cleaning Rust from Threaded Steel Steerer Tube

    Hi,

    I have carbon fork with a threaded steel steerer tube that has rusted a lot inside the steerer tube where the stem goes in (previously had a seized stem inside) and outside on the threads a bit. What's the best way to clean off the rust inside and outside of the steerer tube? Also how can I prevent the stem from getting seized again? Should I purchase a new threaded stem or can I just clean it somehow? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    2,054
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    flex-hone, grease, store bike out of rain

  3. #3
    Senior Member Bat56's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    St.Paul, MN
    Posts
    1,664
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I didn't think that carbon forks have existed long enough to have a stem seized in one...

    Flex hone is a good idea for the inside. If you don't have one a little patience with a file and/or rolled up sandpaper will do the trick. For the outside hit it with some steel wool. I would just get the loose stuff off and then then grease it up really well for the rest of its life.

    In addition to rain try not to sweat all over it.

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    22,540
    Mentioned
    69 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    No need to actually remove the rust. Simply pull an oil dampened strip of cloth through to clean off loose rust and leave a protective film. If you're finicky, push a steel wool pad, or piece of Scotchbrite in and push it back and forth with a stick, to polish out the rust, then followup with oil.

    Flex hone $20.00 or more ---- SOS (or Brillo) pad and a stick under $1.00, and probably already handy.

    For the future, find a neoprene O-ring, and fit it around the stem, and push down to the top of the headset to keep sweat out of the tube. Sometimes, there's room to trap the O-ring at inside top of the locknut. Greased up well, it's stays hidden while keeping water out, making for a more elegant job.
    Last edited by FBinNY; 01-05-14 at 09:15 PM.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  5. #5
    SE Wis dedhed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    My Bikes
    '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400
    Posts
    2,271
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    poor mans flex hone - split end of wood dowel and insert emory cloth, chuck into drill.
    '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    22,540
    Mentioned
    69 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by dedhed View Post
    poor mans flex hone - split end of wood dowel and insert emory cloth, chuck into drill.
    This is a very handy home made tool. I prefer to use brass rod rather than wooded dowel. Either way, wind the emery strip and insert the tool into the tube before powering up. Stop before withdrawing. Spinning it unsupported creates the risk of it snapping and flying across the room (or toward you).
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  7. #7
    Senior Member loimpact's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    SoCal
    My Bikes
    2014 Cannondale Supersix Evo 3; 2014 Cannondale Quick 4; 2014 Cannondale Crash 4 hi-mod
    Posts
    702
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    And as a second to the idea of not using a flex hone, most you will find will probably to large a ball media which will not be conducive to getting into the threads. Steel wool is a much better idea. And very little at that. Consider it a cleaning and then lubricate. And anti-seize compound might be a good idea too unless there is great opposition from the bike folks here. And I think the o-ring idea is a good one too.

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Middle of the road, NJ
    Posts
    2,208
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Use a wire brush on the threads, steel wool, scotch brite, emery on a stick, etc, for the inside. No need to polish or hone the inside.
    To prevent it from seizing again, apply waterproof grease to the inside of the tube with your finger, and grease on the stem. this will prevent further corrosion, and keep the stem from getting stuck.
    If you don't know the way, you shouldn't be going there.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •