rpenmanparker 

I was having trouble with my brake calipers sticking (Zero Gravity Ti). You know, you release the lever but the calipers don't snap back. There is nearly no tension on the cable. I tried the usuals like checking the pivot bolt wasn't too tight and the bolt and area between the caliper arms was lubricated. No help. Then I thought maybe the cable is sticking in the hollow tension adjustment bolt that it runs through right before the attachment bolt. I sprayed a little WD40 in there and sure enough, problem solved. I was surprised considering the cable is Teflon coated. But whatever works!

One other thing. Once previously I had a similar problem and found that the bottom edge of the aluminum hollow tension adjustment bolt had corroded and gotten very rough. That was grabbing the cable and keeping it from moving smoothly. A little work with the grinding tip on the Dremel tool smoothed it without harming the threads and fixed it.

Robert

EDIT: Sorry, I just realized this should have gone in the Trick and Tips thread. Moderators, please feel free to move it. I don't see how.

Looigi

Interesting. The cable makes a pretty straight shot through a fairly big hole in the adjusting screw. Seems strange to me that the cable would hang up in it unless there was some dirt or debris jamming it, either in the screw or in the end of the housing.

loimpact

Forgive my ignorance as I'm still really getting into my own Vbrakes but any chance you can up the tension on your spring?

Reason I say that is because once I saw the mechanic (and saw folks mention here) that they don't even mess with those little adjustment screws any more and usually just tweak the springs a little bit, I do the same on my vbrakes.

I don't know why but whenever I remove a wheel for travel or storage and then put it back on, I sometimes get the brakes acting differently than they did when the wheel was on before. Into the dropouts the same, all else same, just get a mind of their own. Sooo.....rather than fiddle with adjusting screws I just take a fraction of the time and release the spring wire and give it a slight tweak on the weak side and.....voila.....all's well again.

I really haven't had to do it in a while but I just figure I've got strong hands so I can tolerate tighter brakes & better release over easier brakes & finicky brake behavior.

fietsbob

Those a weight weenie Boutique part have a lot more going on than your typical OEM dual Pivot.

Nice that you haver disposable income for them . Enjoy ..

for the poster, above ...V brakes are a lot simpler ..
like 30 years ago you can change the return spring rebound ,
by bending the spring itself , rarely are they actualyl brought up to a real Spring Temper .

MA of V brakes is a Lot , the arm is long..
[ but the hand lever is not so high a MA, its a pairing match of the Cable pull ]

rootboy 

Now that you've found the spot, put a drop of real lubricant in there.

rpenmanparker 

No, road bike caliper brakes don't work that way. Thanks.

Kimmo

I'm thinking contamination inside the housing, and the lube wicked up inside there.

The brakes are getting bumped and moving on their mount.

The mounting bolts for the brakes don't need to be as crazy-tight as most people do them up, and nasty star washers between the brake and the frame are pointless IMO. Leave out the star washers and do up the nights tight enough to hold the brake in place, but not so tight you can't manually rotate it (you need a tool to rotate a single-pivot brake, but DPs just need to be held open and twisted). In the event of pad rub, it's easy to tweak the brake until the pads hit the rim together.