jyl

Is it possible to thread a 1" threadless fork, so that it will work with a 1" threaded headset?

Anyone done this or had it done?

Why - I have an older bike that I'd like to convert to front disc for winter/rain/crud riding. But I don't like the look of older bikes with threadless headsets and stems.

And, anyone know of a carbon, disc, 700C, roadbike fork, with tight clearances (not some bow- legged cyclocross thing), with a 1" steerer suitable for threading?

rpenmanparker 

Not only does the fork have to be able to be threaded, but the ID has to match
the OD of your quill stem. Choose a fork with a steel steerer and the right OD. Check that first.

Jeff Wills

Ding ding! The threadless forks steerer tubes I'm familiar with are typically less well finished than a similar threaded steerer tube. They might accept a quill stem... they might not.

I could be wrong. Check with Brett Flemming at Bike Gallery on Sandy (when he's around).

HillRider

You are going to go to a lot of trouble and possibly expense for a minor cosmetic difference on a bike used in dirty, sloppy conditions anyway. I'd swallow my pride and go threadless.

cyccommute 

As my Pappy used to say: "Hogwarsh!" The tubing used for a threaded or threadless fork has the same diameter and "finish". You seem to be implying that threadless steer tubes are an inferior product which is not what I have observed in a couple of decades of bicycle wrenching.

Yes, it is possible but there are many caveats. First, the bike won't have the channel for a keyed washer. The keyed washer isn't absolutely necessary and would only be a problem with a centerpull type of caliper brake since the key keeps the hanger and brake anchor point from turning. That's not going to be an issue with a disk brake and isn't really an issue with a centerpull type since there are lots of hangers that clamp to the stem for threadless headsets.

Threading isn't that much of a problem if you have access to stem thread cutter. If you don't, don't even think about it since a Park FTS-1 threading set will cost you north of $250 if you are lucky. That's a lot of green for something that you'll use maybe once.

The really big problem is going to be finding a 1" fork that is disc brake ready. 1" forks are rare as hen's teeth as it is. 1" forks that can handle a disc brake start to enter Big Foot territory, i.e. they're mythical.

Tim_Iowa

Counterpoint: Surly, a company no one accuses of under-engineering, states clearly that their threadless steer tubes are thinner, and not up to threading. They say it would be unsafe.

And, they say the diameter is all wrong, too.

https://surlybikes.com/info_hole/faqs...ess_surly_fork
[h=2]Can I thread a threadless Surly fork?[/h]No! Don't do it. Really, just don't; It's unsafe. The wall thickness of our forks' steer tubes is too thin to thread safely, and as well as the inside diameter won't be right for your quill stem.

OneGoodLeg

Surlys lawyers thought that response was best, regardless of the accuracy. It's a CYA answer, saying yes is a total liability.

I work in the medical distribution industry. I've worked in past with surgical instruments, as a product specialist. It was my job to answer similiar questions. Anything that I had posed to me that I couldn't answer without lying or creating a liability, I passed onto the legal department.

Barrettscv 

+1

Soma also does not recommend threading a thread-less fork steerer for the same reason.

fietsbob

certainly.. but how does that help you?

ship it out and Ill find people to do it. LBS has some Threading dies , but not a whole <C> frame Prep kit
like I expect JDT has ..


you have a bike shop on every corner and a bunch of frame-builders in PDX
go forth and get it done.

I have a fork that I got threaded a lot longer than I needed .. if I were to do it again

Id use a Mix Match . threadless headset and just thread the steerer very top,

a thin thru threaded Nut and the top lock nut would secure the whole deal ..

My use was a Touring bike, so like higher Bars.. .. as I gather, You want a Classic Race Bike look..

this is where you hire a Custom Builders help , you need a steel steerer tine to make the threaded part Work


weight weenies want all Carbon fiber , these Days steerer and all

something using an Aluminum fork crown and bonding in a couple Carbon Fiber fork blades of round tube can be done ..

just dont as how much , the one off nature of a market of just You will push the cost Up.

FastJake

You are concerned about the look of a threadless headset on an old bike, but you don't mind putting a DISC BRAKE on? Get over the look, realize threadless is superior, then run the fork you find threadless.

Or get a 1" canti fork (which you can probably actually find), some Kool Stop salmon pads, and realize you don't need discs. Gee I'm helpful today

fietsbob

Drum brakes retro fit nicely and dont over stress a decent steel fork ..

FBinNY 

I don't know what your Pappy used to wash hogs, but I doubt he said this as loosely as you're willing to. Fact is fork steerers come with various thickness walls.

This is just another example where the simple act of measuring would trump all the expertise or opinions here. Steerers intended for threading usually have a 1/16" wall and take a quill stem 1/8" smaller in diameter than the stem - ie. 1" fork = 7/8" stem, 11-1/8" fork = 1" (actual) stem.

There are exceptions to this, such as BMX forks which often have thicker walls and take a smaller .833" stem.

So that answers the first question --- 1" Steerer ID's are not all the same.

This also works in the opposite direction, with some makers of steel threadless forks using thinner tubes, resulting in a larger than standard ID. Not only isn't there enough wall to thread, there aren't any stems to match the larger ID.

So before anyone even consider cutting and threading a fork, they must first check whether a quill stem will fit. That will automatically answer whether it can be made into a threaded fork.

squirtdad

look at this thread https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...readed-steerer

simple answer no

HillRider

How would a drum brake not put the same kind of reaction forces into a fork as a disc?

Jeff Wills

Well, I did say I might be wrong, and I also referred him to Brett, who's probably more current. I never said that threadless steerers were inferior, either, just built different.

Brett's a busy guy, though: chief mechanic at Bike Gallery, principal behind Efficient Velo Tools, guest lecturer at Specialized, and consultant for Shimano. I kind of wish I had his life, but I value my leisure time. FWIW: he and I attended Schwinn School in the same year (1980) with the same instructor (Jim Parrott). It's kind of fun comparing notes.

fietsbob

just doesn't come on as hard, easy to modulate, the strap that goes around the fork

for the reaction strut is 6" up from the fork tip.


and I've been running a drum brake hub set for 30+ years with out issues.. zero-zip-Nyet.