HonestOne

Long story short, bike has been sitting in a box completely taken apart for about a decade. I started putting it back together recently and noticed some parts seem to be missing. I stopped by my LBS and to my surprise, he pulled out an old bag with some parts in it for my bike! What are the odds? Anyways, I've found where most of the little pieces go, but some others that were in the bag, I don't know where they go or if they even belong. If someone could share pictures, brochures, anything like that would help me a lot! Thanks again.
- Aaron

I found this online, best picture I could find.

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AnkleWork

You first.

Andrew R Stewart 

I find it hard to believe that the bag of parts that your LBS had was the actual one that came with your bike. Was he holding out all these years only to wait for you to come back?

While some of your questions could be answered with a lengthly series of posts and replies (starting with photos of your bike and parts as you have them, not some one else's photos) you'll do far better if you go back to your LBS with the bike and parts and pay them to complete the assembly. Another reason to have a pro deal with this is that the age of the bulk of the bike and the needs that come with age. If you're unsure of what i suggest (like lube issues, shift pods, suspension oils/seals) then all the more reason to have a shop do the detail work. If you hope that you find all your answers here i wish you luck. Andy.

HonestOne

To start, I didn't know what bike I had. It was completely disassembled and the frame stripped of its paint and stickers. All I had was an old Police Report from the theft that said "Mongoose Pro". When I went to the shop and described a little what I had, he moved a box on the work table and said, "here. maybe these will work". Sure enough, I went home and some of the pieces fit! I had looked on Bikepedia to find something similar and had saved the 8.1 as a possible match, the bag he game me had 8.1 written on the outside! He says he remembers selling them 15 years ago but asked me to try and do some research to clear some things up, thus why I'm here. I'm a bike mechanic on the side so I know how to do most repairs. Thank you for the suggestions Andrew.

Andrew R Stewart 

Well having more of the story helps to understand your situation. From your starting post i thought you had bought the bike many years ago then storied it away for whatever reason. But, also, from your post it seemed that you were unfamiliar with the bike and how to assemble it. I now understand you are far more informed then i thought. So with your skills can you give us a more specific focus on the parts that you still have questions with? If you are unable to fully describe the parts, photos will help us guide you better. Andy.

HonestOne

This is the major problem I am having. I don't have a press to put this bearing on, there is one that goes on the other side of the part as well. I tried freezing the metal and heating up the bearing but that didn't work. Suggestions? I don't have a rubber mallet at the moment either.

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Andrew R Stewart 

It seems that the story deepens! That's one major "bike taken apart before storage" if the cartridge bearings were pulled.

So I'll try to describe a few basic issues with working these bearings. If these are new replacements and you have the old bearings the old ones can be used as the pressure washers to help press the new onto the axle and into the hub shell. The key while doing this is to not have more pressure going through the inner race/ring then the outer one. You don't want the balls to be pulling in the other ring as that can cause denting of the race/rings. We use old bearings, washers, sockets from ratchet sets, drift punches, and thought out placement of lock tight to install these bearings at work. It's costly to have every possible bearing setting tool that is out there so some creative thought usually solves the tooling need. Axles or all thread rod can act as the pressure producing device. Wheel QR skewers can too. bench vices, if the hub/wheel,frame can be fitted, are great presses. Having a third or fourth hand helps many times.

Much of the challenge is deciding which bearing/seat to do first then second, then third and on till all is assembled. the classic hub design will have a shell with outer bearing seats on both sides and an axle with two seats/shoulders on it. Typically one bearing is installed in the shell and the other on the axle's other end. Then sliding the axle/bearing unit into the shell/bearing unit. If you don't have good pressing washers/old bearings, tooling then use of Lock Tight on the initial bearing pressings will help them resist the forces to do the second set of pressings.

To focus on the photo and how to get that bearing onto the axle stub- I would use an old bearing as a first pressing tool with a socket that only contacts the inner race/ring. If the other side need to be pressed into the shell then a larger socket that contacts only the outer ring/race will help press it without effecting the rest of the cartridge. The next step is the tricky one. Needing to press both bearings to home without sending the force through the actual balls. Washers that fit closely over the axle (and contact the inner race/ring) and also contact the outer ring/race are placed against the bearings and whatever (sockets?) is used to then press on these washers.

this is an aspect of wrenching that there are no simple and consistent methods/tools. Like I said before this is where a pro might save cost and equipment. Andy.

The parts photoed look unused. Is this the case? If so have you taken the old parts out of the hub yet? Are the old parts still on hand? Andy.

HonestOne

To add complexity, the rear dropouts/chain stay part needs to be in place while pressing on the bearings. That is why the bearings were pulled. The parts do look new, it was in the bag from the LBS. I'll give your ideas some thought, ill update as I go on. Thanks again Andrew.

HonestOne

So I got the bearings on, used a piece of wood and a mallet to press one side on, I then slipped it through the housing, placed a bearing on the side that I pressed the other bearing on to so that I could pound the other bearing on to the other side of the spindle. Putting more parts on the bike, I find that the Derauiller that was in the box is not from my bike! Have to purchase a replacement hangar, found the right one on Wheels Manufacturing's website. Probably buy it from my LBS unless I find an old junk bike with the same hangar. Wish my dad would have kept this stuff together a little better!

HonestOne

Finally have it up and running now! The hangar did not fit properly and I had to cut a few millimeters off of the mounting spot for it to work.
New problem (or not?), is this supposed to have some sort of cylinder that fits inside the hole so that the bolt doesn't bounce around or am I supposed to tighten it down really hard? I may have a machinist friend bore out a piece of metal that will fit inside of the frame. Let me know what ya think, thanks.

Andrew R Stewart 

I hope there is suppose to be a sleeve inside that bushing that the two sides of the link tighten up against. This sleeve would rotate snugly within the plastic(?) bushing and be ever so slightly longer then it. Andy.

HonestOne

Two years later with regular riding, still going strong! Every once and a while I have to tighten up that bolt for the seat shock though.

Andrew R Stewart 

Great to hear of the bike's being used for so long. Thanks for the follow up. Andy.