Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    36
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Sturmey Acher AB3 internals issue.

    I have a Dutch Gazelle, bought new on Secember 30th of 2013, less than 250 miles put on it. The issue has been progressive. My indicator rod has broken off today but prior to this, the hub has been giving me some trouble. The issue has been happening for about 3 weeks now. The hub was very over geared for this heavy bike and I changed the cog from a 19t Sram to a 22t Sturmey last week. Put everything back the same as I took it off, but for some reason the hub would never keep the gearing right after adjustment, and it would slip sometimes when pedaling with moderate or hard pressure, and slow shifts. Sometimes I would shift and the hub would as well, but I'd feel slippage till the hub clicked the gear into place. The problem would sort itself out for a while and suddenly come back and go away. Today while riding the hub suddenly wouldn't stop slipping (around after 5 miles of riding), and the wheel wouldn't spin freely, nor would the cranks turn freely without the hub giving resistance (forwards and backwards). Took it to the shop I bought it at today and they looked at it, took the wheel off, and adjusted it and the shifting, and the slippage was minimal for a few minutes after i left, then more slippage started happening again like it was earlier. I adjust it again and it stopped the slippage and the hub shifted fine. Then my indicator rod snapped off with the threads still engaged, shifted to 3rd gear, while the hub gave the wheel and cranks resistance again, so much so that I couldn't pedal easily. It also engaged the brake drum on it's own, which i loosened, but still had a bit of intermittent resistance afterwards.

    The slippage wasn't limited to any single gear, it happened in every gear, and sometimes it would prevent the shifter from sliding the hub into the next gear (without pedaling), or keep it in only 2 gears (shift from 1-2, or 3-2, no full range). Right now the cranks still spin with the resistance, and i can ride it in 3rd (with slippage).

    Can anyone help me with what may be wrong with this hub and how It may be fixed?

  2. #2
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakville Ontario
    Posts
    4,855
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    There will be no way to diagnose it without removing and dis-assembling the internals, but there are a couple of possibilities.
    it may have been assembled with inadequate lubrication, and/or moisture has worked it's way in and caused the pawls to stick.
    A bent or broken axle will present symptoms like this as well.
    Any way you slice it, the hub has to be torn down. If it's a manufacturing defect, (or maybe even if it's not) SA is pretty good about standing behind their products and shipping out replacement internals without too many questions.
    At least that's been my experience dealing with Sunrace Sturmey Archer North America. I don't know what part of the planet you are on.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    Rule #12: The correct number of bikes to own is n+1

  3. #3
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    36
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I'll be tearing it down later. What lube would be recommended for a hub like this? I'm in north America, New York to be exact and I know Harris cyclery has parts for these hubs. From what I've read around, it seems that older Sturmey Internals are more durable than those of new? But new shells are better than the older shells? Would it doable to take an old AW hub, remove the internals, and put them in this drum brake hub?

  4. #4
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakville Ontario
    Posts
    4,855
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by smokeysurvival View Post
    I'll be tearing it down later. What lube would be recommended for a hub like this? I'm in north America, New York to be exact and I know Harris cyclery has parts for these hubs. From what I've read around, it seems that older Sturmey Internals are more durable than those of new? But new shells are better than the older shells? Would it doable to take an old AW hub, remove the internals, and put them in this drum brake hub?
    Your hub has the NIG internals. I don't know where you read that the old hubs are superior, but the modern production 3 speeds are very well designed and robust. Experiences such as yours are somewhat unusual.
    If you need help with info on how to extract the internals, let us know. Also, I would send an e-mail to Sunrace Sturmey Archer at info@sunraceusa.com It might take David a while to respond, he's a one man show here, but my experience is he is most helpful.
    Last edited by Dan Burkhart; 02-03-14 at 02:23 PM.
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    Rule #12: The correct number of bikes to own is n+1

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    36
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Are NIG internals difficult to extract? I've removed the wheel itself and it's still very hard to turn the sprocket. Could this possibly be from the cones being too tight or something binding? I'd like any help on extracting these as you can provide. Also, how can I get the piece of the indicator rod that's broken off inside of the hub, out of the hub?

  6. #6
    Senior member Dan Burkhart's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Oakville Ontario
    Posts
    4,855
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Extracting NIG internals is no different than the old type with the exception that the notches in the ball ring are a scallop shape rather than square. I've found it no more difficult to deal with, so long as the proper tool is chosen. I use a large brass punch and hammer. Brass is better than steel, because the tip will deform slightly on the lip of the notch when struck with a hammer, and afford better purchase.
    Of course, the left side lock nut and cone must be removed before unscrewing the ball ring.
    Here's a couple of videos that may help you out. This one is an explanation of how a 3 speed functions, but includes a demo of loosening and removing the internals.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o6v5K-2zWMI

    This one shows the design differences between the classic AW and the NIG.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-UyHVWsvzQs
    Gearhubs demystified and other cool stuff.


    Rule #12: The correct number of bikes to own is n+1

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Carlstadt, NJ
    Posts
    141
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Since you're in NYC, John at the Cosmic Wheel may be able to help you. He was a Raleigh dealer half a lifetime ago. His shop is right across the bridge in Ridgefield Pk, NJ. He's building a new SA hubbed wheel for me right now. It's an easy ride there from Manhattan if it weren't for this blasted weather.
    A ride on a bike is not a walk in the park

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    36
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Well I've just gotten done tearing it down and re-assembling it (many photo's taken for reference). The ball ring I got off with a hammer and a wrench (acting as a chisel). I unscrewed the broken indicator threads from the axle pin and inspected everything, looking for chips and such...found nothing. I'm not sure what was causing the slippage but it's gone now (test ridden with hard pedaling in only in 3rd gear as I have no indicator rod to test 1st and 2nd gear). The tightness seems to have been caused by the cones, as I tested this by tightening them (as the drum side cone has no locknut, I assume the locknut to keep the brake mech attached acts as this), in different ways to get the brake drum mech attached without applying more cone pressure. They must not have been tight against their locknuts and tightened as I pedaled possibly?

    @Coal Buster- Thank you, I'll check that place out as I do have a S2 hub that I would like to get laced sometime. I agree man, the snow needs to stop.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •