Eric

I own a Trek 4500 and I just noticed a slight wobble in my rear wheel (while not turning my wheel, I can move the wheel side to side slightly). Inspecting this, I noticed a loose spoke. I have never adjusted a spoke before but I do have a crank brothers multi-purpose tool with a spoke wrench. I have went to many sights on this issue (truing a wheel) and they all talk about turning the nipple a little at a time. Now, I now this may be a stupid question, but remember I am not a bike mech. I plan to tighten the spoke or spokes this weekend, but what I would like to know, is if I have to remove my tire from the wheel?
or can I tighten the spoke with just the wrench where the spoke meets the wheel. In other words, how do I do the adjustment step by step. Thanks you to whoever reponds.

ljbike

No you don't have to remove the tire to tighten the spokes. But you need to remove the wheel from the bike and adjust the bearings because that is what is causing the side to side movement. DONOT OVER TIGHTEN THEM.
The wheel should spin freely while holding the axle in your fingers. IF you feel any sort of vibration, then it is too tight. If you don't have the tools for this take it to the shop.

lotek 

I'd check the wheel bearings. Truing the wheel won't do a
thing if the whole wheel moves side to side.
If you're not sure about this bring it to your LBS.

Marty

mike

I'm thinking the same as lotek. Sounds like your bearing cones are loose. That can lead to BIG trouble. It won't take long until you grind your bearings into shiny shards. That always happens at the very worst time.

If you are ambitious, get yourself two cone wrenches, some instructions, and have at it. In my opinion, proper cone adjustment is half wrench, half art.

Otherwise, bring in into the shop.

Eric

I took the wheel to the LBS and they told me it was the cassette. He said that it wasn't as serious as I thought and it should be fine. When I start to notice a problem shifting gears, I should get it fixed. They said it is about a 20 dollar fix. The play in the wheel is, like I said, very minimal. It was just somthing I noticed while cleaning the bike. He also said my spokes were fine as well. Does this sound right to you guys or do u think the problem is with the bearings?

lotek 

Eric,

They said its the cassette? I don't know it just
doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me.
If the whole wheel moves laterally when you
hold the axle how could it be cassette?
I would be inclined to get a second opinion,
I'm no wrench but as Mike said trashed
bearings will lead to buying new hubs.

Marty

WorldIRC

yah i disagree with what your LBS said. if your holding the axle of the wheel and the wheel still moves theres no way it can be the cassette. urr cones probably are loose. take to anohter LBS and have them tighten them up.

Eric

Well, I noticed the play getting a little worse. I took off the rear wheel and investigated more. I noticed that the wheel itself is secure, but the cassette is what has the play in it. When attached to the bike, it was the wheel that moved. I am not sure what type of cassette attachment I have i.e. screw on or lock pin. Sorry, I am not up to speed on cassettes or hubs. Like I said before, I have a 2002 Trek 4500. Anyway, anybody have any comments. Is this an easy fix? Thanx in advance

Oh, one more thing. I hear a humming noise from the front wheel as well. I am wondering if water got into my hub. I thought they where sealed hubs though and I don't spray into them when I wash the bike. By the way, it isn't the tire making the noise. It even does it in the dirt. it probably isn't a big deal, I am just curiuos. Thanx

Precision Pedal

UMMM, A loose cassette make not a loose wheel. If your cassette was loose I am troubled as to why they did not tighten that up on the spot. Also to charge $20 to do that or even if they have to tighten the cassette hub body that is a ridiculous sum of money to charge. Now this problem that you have described can only be from one or two things. Your hub cones are loose or worse case scenario the axle is broken. Go to another LBS and have them look into it and ask if you can watch. As far as the humming sound does this happen when you spin it while not riding it? If so isolate the location of the sound, and write back.

MichaelW

Your bike has a splined freehub, standard modern stuff, and is shouldnt wobble.
By wobble, do you mean static wobble (can actually move the rim side to side when not rotatating), or a non-circular rim, which appears to move from side to side as it rotates.
The former is due to lose wheel bearings, that latter is due to uneven spokes.

Eric

I can actually move the rim side to side without spinning the wheel. It isn't alot of play, maybe a 1/8-1/4 inch side to side.
As far as the humming, it is when I am on the bike. I don't get it when I spin the tire unloaded

bikerider

If, when the wheel is secured tightly in the dropouts and you grip the rim, there is a definite side to side 'knocking' then the hub cones need to be tightened. The LBS didn't fix the problem and you will severely reduce the life of the hub by riding it around like that. I'm assuming that it's a Shimano hub (or similar).

Try these sites:

https://www.parktool.com/repair_help/...#hubadjustment

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html

pat5319

A Loose FREEHUB could be the problem, that's what the casette mounts onto, a loose freehub does have symptoms similar to those of loose cone adjustment. Since the description of the problem isn't totally clear, the problem could be, a loose cone adjustment, or a loose spoke or spokes as well.

Ride Well Adjusted
Pat

Eric

Thanx everyone for your replies. It is greatly appreciated.
I think if it were the cones, the LBS would have tried to tighten them. At least I would think..lol. Maybe it is the freehub like pat5319 stated and that is why they said it was an easy $20 fix. I am taking the wheel back this weekend and no, I havn't been riding on it till it gets fixed. Thanx again everybody.

Eric

Well, I took the wheel to my LBS and I now need a new wheel . They said that the innards were cross threaded. I don't know how this would have happened from just riding the trails. They think it was a manufacturers defect. Hopefully my warrenty will cover this. I just bought the bike in April 2002.

mike

"innards were cross threaded"?

Sounds like the doohicky was busted by too much interference by the thingamabob.

That can be expensive depending on your ability to comprehend exactly what it is the wrench is telling you.

How much does he want to charge you for that?

WorldIRC

you probably only need a new hub then.. the wheel should be fine

Eric

Well, the bike shop I purchased the bike from is replacing the wheel. All is covered under warrenty. They were great, no questions asked. I guess it's easier then just replacing the hub itself. No complaints here Thank you, to all u guys, for you help.
I really learn alot in this forum......

P.S. I guess the "innards" comment doesn't really sound like I've learned anything, but I have. How does saying, " the freehub and the hub were crossthreaded" Thanx again