Brinelling
#1
a77impala
Thread Starter
Brinelling
I searched threads and found this term referring to a fork self centering. A friend has a '82 Peugeot that does that and he claims it is designed that way. I have had bikes do it and have serviced the bearings to correct it.
I don't want to tell him he is wrong without being sure. Does he need to service the headset or not?
Thanks.
I don't want to tell him he is wrong without being sure. Does he need to service the headset or not?
Thanks.
Last edited by a77impala; 02-23-14 at 07:37 AM. Reason: spelling
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Your friend is absolutely wrong. It is not "designed that way", it is a defect and should be repaired.
"Brinelling" is a misnomer but it's used to describe the pockmarking of the headset races (usually the lower race) due to impact, lube breakdown and wear. The pockmarks align with the bearing balls and cause what is called "index steering" or the self-centering you mentioned. It interferers with the proper steering of the bike and in serious cases can be dangerous.
A quick and temporary fix is to replace caged balls with loose balls. That requires one or two more balls per race and the pockmarks no longer line up with the balls. The proper fix is to replace the headset with a new one followed by proper adjustment and lubrication to keep it from happening again. .
"Brinelling" is a misnomer but it's used to describe the pockmarking of the headset races (usually the lower race) due to impact, lube breakdown and wear. The pockmarks align with the bearing balls and cause what is called "index steering" or the self-centering you mentioned. It interferers with the proper steering of the bike and in serious cases can be dangerous.
A quick and temporary fix is to replace caged balls with loose balls. That requires one or two more balls per race and the pockmarks no longer line up with the balls. The proper fix is to replace the headset with a new one followed by proper adjustment and lubrication to keep it from happening again. .
#3
Mechanic/Tourist
You can also remove the lower race that's installed in the head tube, rotate it slightly and reinstall.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Above ground, Walnut Creek, Ca
Posts: 6,681
Bikes: 8 ss bikes, 1 5-speed touring bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 86 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
on occasion, i've been able to purchase a new bottom race for a few dollars...
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
Keep in mind that today's ultra-stiff cable housings, especially when installed on the short side, can contribute to fork centering. If the bike in question has under-tape cable routing, the cables are just long enough, and the housings are very stiff, you may want to try disconnecting all the cables from the derailleurs and brakes and retesting the effect. No sense redoing the head set if that is not the problem.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
#7
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Kissimmee, FL
Posts: 12
Bikes: 2002 Specialized Allez
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sounds like your friend may have been and old customer of FBinNY! I found this last night while searching this topic myself:
-Andy
When I was in retail eons ago, this was a common issue affecting all good road bikes, and we learned that we could still ride even with really badly fretted headsets. But many people would be concerned so I started the rumor that Campy made special Cyclocross headsets that indexed this way so the front wheel wouldn't swing around when you carried the bike up embankments. That worked fine until someone walked in one day and insisted on buying a cyclocross headset.
#8
a77impala
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies.
Last edited by a77impala; 02-23-14 at 08:58 AM. Reason: added
#9
Mechanic/Tourist
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 33,656
Bikes: '96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '20 Surly Midnight Special, All are 3x10. It is hilly around here!
Mentioned: 39 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2026 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1,096 Times
in
742 Posts
Temporary can be a long time, and finding a compatible lower race can take a long time as well.
#11
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
But has the advantage of being readily available, which isn't always the case for acquiring lower headset stack parts separately. While not a permanent fix, it can extend the life of the headset until a suitable replacement can be found.
#12
a77impala
Thread Starter
That is a good point, I had completely forgotten that!
cnybikeman's posting above has merit because headsets for an early 1980's French bike are going to difficult to find.[/QUOTE]
cnybikeman's posting above has merit because headsets for an early 1980's French bike are going to difficult to find.[/QUOTE]
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,704
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5778 Post(s)
Liked 2,575 Times
in
1,426 Posts
In my experience in retail, nobody ever brought in an index headset complaining of handling problems. It was always noticed while walking or working on the bike. The fact that it posed no riding problems is what made my XC gag credible.
IMO, the OP should ride the bike, and if it rides OK, not worry about it yet. It will get worse over time, and at some point he can decide it's time to replace it.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,704
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5778 Post(s)
Liked 2,575 Times
in
1,426 Posts
While there were a small number of headsets with the same cup in the frame upper and lower, (>> -HT- <<) the vast majority are not symmetrical and have both cups open downward, probably to shed water better, (>>--HT-- >>), so swapping upper and lower cups isn't possible because the upper HT cup is a cone.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
Last edited by FBinNY; 02-23-14 at 12:20 PM.
#16
Bicycle Tinker'er
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 158
Bikes: Focus Touring (Vhc.)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm confused. I usually tighten my headset adjuster ring tight enough to where the steerer locks forward. This is damaged? or is this only bad when it becomes this way naturally?
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 8,688
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1074 Post(s)
Liked 295 Times
in
222 Posts
The traditional rule for headset tightening is to the point where there's no discernible play when the bike is rocked forward against a locked front brake.
Old townies sometimes have a spring between fork and downtube to help keep the front wheel aligned (during handling other than riding I presume).
Many mechanics keep either a bungee cord or a strap from a pedal clip handy to secure the front wheel of a bike that gets hoisted onto a workstand.
I think I've seen a properly engineered steering damper on a DH bike once. But again, that'll give a smooth motion across the arc.
Now, "bad" is a tricky word in these circumstances.
Is it meant to be like that - No.
Will it cause the bike to self-destruct, or you to lose control in a critical moment - hugely unlikely.
Revise your headset adjustment parameters.
Ride and be happy.
Replace when troubled by it.
#18
Bicycle Tinker'er
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 158
Bikes: Focus Touring (Vhc.)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Steering is supposed to be a smooth motion across the arc. Indexing is always a bug and not a feature.
The traditional rule for headset tightening is to the point where there's no discernible play when the bike is rocked forward against a locked front brake.
Old townies sometimes have a spring between fork and downtube to help keep the front wheel aligned (during handling other than riding I presume).
Many mechanics keep either a bungee cord or a strap from a pedal clip handy to secure the front wheel of a bike that gets hoisted onto a workstand.
I think I've seen a properly engineered steering damper on a DH bike once. But again, that'll give a smooth motion across the arc.
Now, "bad" is a tricky word in these circumstances.
Is it meant to be like that - No.
Will it cause the bike to self-destruct, or you to lose control in a critical moment - hugely unlikely.
Revise your headset adjustment parameters.
Ride and be happy.
Replace when troubled by it.
The traditional rule for headset tightening is to the point where there's no discernible play when the bike is rocked forward against a locked front brake.
Old townies sometimes have a spring between fork and downtube to help keep the front wheel aligned (during handling other than riding I presume).
Many mechanics keep either a bungee cord or a strap from a pedal clip handy to secure the front wheel of a bike that gets hoisted onto a workstand.
I think I've seen a properly engineered steering damper on a DH bike once. But again, that'll give a smooth motion across the arc.
Now, "bad" is a tricky word in these circumstances.
Is it meant to be like that - No.
Will it cause the bike to self-destruct, or you to lose control in a critical moment - hugely unlikely.
Revise your headset adjustment parameters.
Ride and be happy.
Replace when troubled by it.
#19
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
#20
Bicycle Tinker'er
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 158
Bikes: Focus Touring (Vhc.)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In all fairness, years ago my local bike shop gave it to me that way. Good to know the "right way" but I'll keep doing it the "wrong way" on my bikes. Sure is an easy way to pedal without hands.
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
Is no hands riding really that important to you? I doubt freezing the steering like that really does anything for no hands riding. You're kidding yourself.
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,783
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
9 Posts
It seems to me that "locking" a bike's steering at all, whether forward or any other position, would hinder hands-free riding, not help it. When riding hands-free, you're constantly making small steering corrections by shifting your weight and you would want the headset to turn freely to allow it. It's the steering geometry that'll keep steering roughly centered, not friction in the headset resisting turning forces.
#23
Bicycle Tinker'er
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 158
Bikes: Focus Touring (Vhc.)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#24
Bicycle Tinker'er
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 158
Bikes: Focus Touring (Vhc.)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
It seems to me that "locking" a bike's steering at all, whether forward or any other position, would hinder hands-free riding, not help it. When riding hands-free, you're constantly making small steering corrections by shifting your weight and you would want the headset to turn freely to allow it. It's the steering geometry that'll keep steering roughly centered, not friction in the headset resisting turning forces.