Seriously, its a very common issue.
Seriously, its a very common issue.
I hope you are able use a de-rusting agent or triflow to get those shifters working. The trek 2300 handles so well. No vibration, super solid, fun downhill riding!
So true. An LBS told me to hang the bike on the wall as a collectible. Any idea of a good video or online source to explain how to do this? It is in indeed 126mm.
One other mitigating factor is my rear wheel is a free wheel. My LBS told me "stretching" the frame to fit 130mm would throw the whole bike off. Not sure if that is true or if they were just trying to get rid of me at the time.
The biggest obstacle seems to be the 126mm spacing. ):
I wish I could find a conversion that someone has put some miles on successfully. Hard to find conversions on this bike online. Wouldn't bother, but lots of 60degree+ hills to climb around here.
So, seeing that both options above require derailleur changes, I would suggest option 1, a larger cog 7 speed freewheel and rear derailleur. Something like the IRD defiant 7 speed freewheel #23728 :http://store.interlocracing.com/fr76and5sp.html.
For the rear derailleur, you'll need a mountain bike derailleur like this: http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...9-speed-silver. Of course you'll need a new chain:http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...ed-each-silver.
With this change you'll now test the bike out. If that is sufficient gearing to get up the hills, you can then look at getting new shifters on the bars like these:http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-A07...7FB528A628E2XT. If it is not sufficient, getting a triple crank and front derailleur to work with it will do it. Note: if you have to go with a triple crankset, those shifters I linked only shift 2 chainrings, so you won't be able to use them. If you really want those shifters on the bars, you would opt for a compact double crankset. This option would allow you to use the existing derailleurs with those shifters. The downside is that the gearing on compact doubles doesn't suit everyone. Hope that helps.
I really appreciate everyone's input and being patient with me learning a new skill. I enjoy working on mechanical things, with success in the past so I am hoping I can tackle this on my own. And perhaps down the road I will find a lightweight steel bike and convert it 130mm and put a carbon fork on it. There's a Tesch locally right now in my size but it's $2500.
My bike reads: 21T-24T 32 H
So can i go with this one?:
23738 7sp 13-15-18-21-24-28-32
Or do I need to stick with this one?:
23730 7sp 13-14-15-17-19-21-24
I saw someone else put a longer rear derailleur on their 2300 with the 600 set and said it made it run smoother. Can't wait to see how the larger cassette affects performance. The 21 tooth is so small and two of the gears are the same size so it is more like a 6 speed.
It sounds like you need a different, more cooperative bike shop.
I removed the wheel. Even if I set the calibrator to 127, it will not fit inside the dropouts. 126 does. I wanted to be sure myself so bought the calibrator today.
Here is the tech manual, but it's pretty simple.
The 2300 is on page 37. It's annoyingly vague.
post a really good picture or two of the freewheel, making sure that any writing is visible and remove the quick release skewer before taking the pics. What you need to see is the freewheel as if you are looking into the axle. pictures of the teeth are useless.
it's, according to the documentation for a 2300, a 7 speed hyperglide 13-21 freehub. described under a misleading column titled (FREEWHEEL/CHAIN) as: "(fw) Shimano 13-21, 7-speed (c) Shimano Hyperglide". i guess they were still referring to it as a freewheel at that time.
in another column titled "HUBSET", it states: "Shimano Ultegra sealed 32 hole w/QR".
please feel free to verify. the doc link in post #37 is a PDF. there is a grid with all the components for all the models on page 4. you'll have to blow it up about 400% to read it though. of course, you could just take my word for it.;)
There's a lot of confusion as to whether it has a freewheel or freehub. Either way, any shop can change the gearing to make it lower. 7 speed freewheels and cassettes are available with 32 or 34 large cogs. 7 speed chains-available. 7 speed brifters are available. 7 speed is not a problem unless you want high level componentry. If a shop is telling the OP that it can't be done, she needs to go to another shop.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG4.../dp/B005DTWLGY. good luck.
oh... you might need this -< http://www.amazon.com/KMC-7-8sp-chai.../dp/B001CN6QA2, seeing as how you might need a longer chain for the extra 7 teeth on the big sprocket in the cassette. may not though. you can try it without. don't worry, you'll find out soon enough it it's not long enough.
i'll let others chime in on possible RD cage issure.
You ARE correct! That was what was confusing. Thanks! I need a cassette. Darn - LikeBike23 had me all set up.
seems like Shimano hadn't agreed yet on differentiating a freewheel from what would eventually be called a freehub either. guess it was a time of transition, so i suppose they should be cut a little slack.
BTw, if you see the OP tell him or her? to just get a new 7 speed chain regardless. like birds of a feather,... buy chain and cassette together... :)
Keep the crank, get yourself a 14-32 7-speed cassette, new rear derailer, new chain, and call it a day. Or add 7-speed STI if desired.
Here you go: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-HG50...item54039c80a6
As I said you'll need a new, longer chain. And a MTB rear derailer to handle the 32T cog.
The bike that you ride makes you fast! Ride any bike enough and you will be fast. But I will admit I'm fond of my carbon USPS Trek.