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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrt2you View Post
    i have a 92, i think, trek 2300 i bought at a thrift store. it had shimano 600 sti shifters that didn't work, no dérailleurs, brakes or wheels on it.
    i bought this wheelset, http://www.ebay.com/itm/AEROMAX-700c...item1c3cf8d9b3. they bolted on without any problems. i didn't have to force or bend anything to get them to fit.
    i painted the bike with plans on riding it. then i got a great deal on a specialized roubaix so now it sits.
    Your Shimano 600 STI shifters do work fine, they just need a major flushing with WD-40 solvent and then to be lubicrated and they should work fine then. I will waste nearly a full spray can of WD-40 loosening up a set of sticky non-functional STI shifters.

    Seriously, its a very common issue.
    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  2. #27
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    Trek 2300 upgrade

    Quote Originally Posted by clydeosaur View Post
    Going 8 on this should be fine. I did this to a 91 trek 400 for my wife. I simply bought & moved over brifters, wheels, rear der. and brakes from a person who was upgrading from Sora to 105. The only thing I bought were new cables, chain (seamed like common sense) and the adapters/stops for the down tube bosses. The frame is either 128 0r 129. No hassle putting the rear wheel on of getting it off. Stock crank and front der. work fine with the brifters.
    Do you think 9x2 or 10x2 would work as well?

  3. #28
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    I hope you are able use a de-rusting agent or triflow to get those shifters working. The trek 2300 handles so well. No vibration, super solid, fun downhill riding!

  4. #29
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    So true. An LBS told me to hang the bike on the wall as a collectible. Any idea of a good video or online source to explain how to do this? It is in indeed 126mm.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5ofus View Post
    I hope you are able use a de-rusting agent or triflow to get those shifters working. The trek 2300 handles so well. No vibration, super solid, fun downhill riding!
    Triflow is a lubricant not a solvent. It will lube the internals of the shifters but the key point is that you need a strong solvent like WD-40 to break up all the hardened grease present inside the shifters. Once you work the shifters for a while (half hour?) while spraying WD-40 into them, they should loosen up and start functioning fine again. After that, blow them out and then lube with Triflow. Triflow alone will probably not break up the hardened grease making the shifters sticky.
    "When dealing with stuff like this consider that this is a bicycle, not a spaceship." -- FBinNY

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by AnkleWork View Post
    The ability to factor prime numbers would be a good start.
    Well, you could do it, with a single ring and a 23 cog cassette. And a really, really wide range RD and flexible chain on gigenormous drop-outs.

    Maybe it's a business opportunity for an enterprising engineer.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by mprelaw View Post
    Well, you could do it, with a single ring and a 23 cog cassette. And a really, really wide range RD and flexible chain on gigenormous drop-outs.

    Maybe it's a business opportunity for an enterprising engineer.
    Hilarious! Then the MFRs will dump the 130mm spacing and make everyone buy a new bike to upgrade!

    One other mitigating factor is my rear wheel is a free wheel. My LBS told me "stretching" the frame to fit 130mm would throw the whole bike off. Not sure if that is true or if they were just trying to get rid of me at the time.

    The biggest obstacle seems to be the 126mm spacing. ):

    I wish I could find a conversion that someone has put some miles on successfully. Hard to find conversions on this bike online. Wouldn't bother, but lots of 60degree+ hills to climb around here.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5ofus View Post
    One other mitigating factor is my rear wheel is a free wheel. My LBS told me "stretching" the frame to fit 130mm would throw the whole bike off. Not sure if that is true or if they were just trying to get rid of me at the time.

    The biggest obstacle seems to be the 126mm spacing. ):
    Your bike is constructed of carbon tubes glued to aluminum lugs. Stretching the frame is going to stress the frame and the aluminum lug/glued joint could fail. You already got some good advice here on what you can do. To summarize: 7 speeds in the rear is perfectly ok. If you are purely doing this to get "easier" gearing for climbing, getting a freewheel with larger cogs and a rear derailleur to handle it, or a triple/compact crankset with smaller front rings and derailleurs to handle it will help tremendously.


    So, seeing that both options above require derailleur changes, I would suggest option 1, a larger cog 7 speed freewheel and rear derailleur. Something like the IRD defiant 7 speed freewheel #23728 :http://store.interlocracing.com/fr76and5sp.html.

    For the rear derailleur, you'll need a mountain bike derailleur like this: http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...9-speed-silver. Of course you'll need a new chain:http://www.niagaracycle.com/categori...ed-each-silver.

    With this change you'll now test the bike out. If that is sufficient gearing to get up the hills, you can then look at getting new shifters on the bars like these:http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-ST-A07...7FB528A628E2XT. If it is not sufficient, getting a triple crank and front derailleur to work with it will do it. Note: if you have to go with a triple crankset, those shifters I linked only shift 2 chainrings, so you won't be able to use them. If you really want those shifters on the bars, you would opt for a compact double crankset. This option would allow you to use the existing derailleurs with those shifters. The downside is that the gearing on compact doubles doesn't suit everyone. Hope that helps.
    Last edited by likebike23; 02-28-14 at 04:04 PM.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by likebike23 View Post
    Hope that helps.
    Thank you LIKEBIKE23. Yes this helps! I am aware of the carbon construction so I bought a caliber and my Trek is definitely 126mm spacing so I have decided not to force 130mm after preserving the bike so well. Your explanation is very clear.

    I really appreciate everyone's input and being patient with me learning a new skill. I enjoy working on mechanical things, with success in the past so I am hoping I can tackle this on my own. And perhaps down the road I will find a lightweight steel bike and convert it 130mm and put a carbon fork on it. There's a Tesch locally right now in my size but it's $2500.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by likebike23 View Post

    So, seeing that both options above require derailleur changes, I would suggest option 1, a larger cog 7 speed freewheel and rear derailleur. Something like the IRD defiant 7 speed freewheel #23728 :http://store.interlocracing.com/fr76and5sp.html.
    I tried emailing IRD, but it's not working on my computer.

    My bike reads: 21T-24T 32 H

    So can i go with this one?:
    23738 7sp 13-15-18-21-24-28-32

    Or do I need to stick with this one?:
    23730 7sp 13-14-15-17-19-21-24

    I saw someone else put a longer rear derailleur on their 2300 with the 600 set and said it made it run smoother. Can't wait to see how the larger cassette affects performance. The 21 tooth is so small and two of the gears are the same size so it is more like a 6 speed.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5ofus View Post
    One other mitigating factor is my rear wheel is a free wheel. My LBS told me "stretching" the frame to fit 130mm would throw the whole bike off. Not sure if that is true or if they were just trying to get rid of me at the time.
    I'm pretty sure it has a cassette on a freehub, not a freewheel. By 1992 almost any decent bike used cassettes. My '92 1420 certainly did. Also, have someone measure the rear dropout spacing carefully. I'd be very surprised if it isn't 128 mm and would allow you to safely use a 130 mm hub.

    It sounds like you need a different, more cooperative bike shop.

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    I'm pretty sure it has a cassette on a freehub, not a freewheel. By 1992 almost any decent bike used cassettes. My '92 1420 certainly did. Also, have someone measure the rear dropout spacing carefully. I'd be very surprised if it isn't 128 mm and would allow you to safely use a 130 mm hub.

    It sounds like you need a different, more cooperative bike shop.
    Hmm, free hub or free wheel? Here are the specs. Mine is the 2300.

    http://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...rekCatalog.pdf

    I removed the wheel. Even if I set the calibrator to 127, it will not fit inside the dropouts. 126 does. I wanted to be sure myself so bought the calibrator today.

  13. #38
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    Here is the tech manual, but it's pretty simple.

    http://www.vintage-trek.com/Trek-Fis...manualTrek.pdf

    The 2300 is on page 37. It's annoyingly vague.

  14. #39
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    post a really good picture or two of the freewheel, making sure that any writing is visible and remove the quick release skewer before taking the pics. What you need to see is the freewheel as if you are looking into the axle. pictures of the teeth are useless.

  15. #40
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    it's, according to the documentation for a 2300, a 7 speed hyperglide 13-21 freehub. described under a misleading column titled (FREEWHEEL/CHAIN) as: "(fw) Shimano 13-21, 7-speed (c) Shimano Hyperglide". i guess they were still referring to it as a freewheel at that time.

    in another column titled "HUBSET", it states: "Shimano Ultegra sealed 32 hole w/QR".

    please feel free to verify. the doc link in post #37 is a PDF. there is a grid with all the components for all the models on page 4. you'll have to blow it up about 400% to read it though. of course, you could just take my word for it.
    Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 02-28-14 at 10:00 PM.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5ofus View Post
    Hmm, free hub or free wheel? Here are the specs. Mine is the 2300.

    http://www.vintage-trek.com/images/t...rekCatalog.pdf

    I removed the wheel. Even if I set the calibrator to 127, it will not fit inside the dropouts. 126 does. I wanted to be sure myself so bought the calibrator today.
    like Michael Keaton said to Martin Mull in "Mr. Mom". "120... 121... whatever it takes."

  17. #42
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    There's a lot of confusion as to whether it has a freewheel or freehub. Either way, any shop can change the gearing to make it lower. 7 speed freewheels and cassettes are available with 32 or 34 large cogs. 7 speed chains-available. 7 speed brifters are available. 7 speed is not a problem unless you want high level componentry. If a shop is telling the OP that it can't be done, she needs to go to another shop.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5ofus View Post
    I tried emailing IRD, but it's not working on my computer.

    My bike reads: 21T-24T 32 H

    So can i go with this one?:
    23738 7sp 13-15-18-21-24-28-32

    Or do I need to stick with this one?:
    23730 7sp 13-14-15-17-19-21-24

    I saw someone else put a longer rear derailleur on their 2300 with the 600 set and said it made it run smoother. Can't wait to see how the larger cassette affects performance. The 21 tooth is so small and two of the gears are the same size so it is more like a 6 speed.
    if i simply wanted lower gearing on that bike (and it is unusually high as stated in the doc), then i would just by this -> http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG4.../dp/B005DTWLGY. good luck.

    oh... you might need this -< http://www.amazon.com/KMC-7-8sp-chai.../dp/B001CN6QA2, seeing as how you might need a longer chain for the extra 7 teeth on the big sprocket in the cassette. may not though. you can try it without. don't worry, you'll find out soon enough it it's not long enough.

    i'll let others chime in on possible RD cage issure.
    Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 02-28-14 at 10:36 PM.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by likebike23 View Post
    post a really good picture or two of the freewheel, making sure that any writing is visible and remove the quick release skewer before taking the pics. What you need to see is the freewheel as if you are looking into the axle. pictures of the teeth are useless.
    Let me know if this is good. Thanks!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  20. #45
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    You ARE correct! That was what was confusing. Thanks! I need a cassette. Darn - LikeBike23 had me all set up.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by hueyhoolihan View Post
    it's, according to the documentation for a 2300, a 7 speed hyperglide 13-21 freehub. described under a misleading column titled (FREEWHEEL/CHAIN) as: "(fw) Shimano 13-21, 7-speed (c) Shimano Hyperglide". i guess they were still referring to it as a freewheel at that time.

    in another column titled "HUBSET", it states: "Shimano Ultegra sealed 32 hole w/QR".
    You ARE correct! That was what was confusing for me. Thanks! I need a cassette. I want to go light if possible. Darn - LikeBike23 had me all set up.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by likebike23 View Post
    There's a lot of confusion as to whether it has a freewheel or freehub. Either way, any shop can change the gearing to make it lower. 7 speed freewheels and cassettes are available with 32 or 34 large cogs. 7 speed chains-available. 7 speed brifters are available. 7 speed is not a problem unless you want high level componentry. If a shop is telling the OP that it can't be done, she needs to go to another shop.
    i agree.

    seems like Shimano hadn't agreed yet on differentiating a freewheel from what would eventually be called a freehub either. guess it was a time of transition, so i suppose they should be cut a little slack.

    BTw, if you see the OP tell him or her? to just get a new 7 speed chain regardless. like birds of a feather,... buy chain and cassette together...

  23. #48
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Keep the crank, get yourself a 14-32 7-speed cassette, new rear derailer, new chain, and call it a day. Or add 7-speed STI if desired.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
    Keep the crank, get yourself a 14-32 7-speed cassette, new rear derailer, new chain, and call it a day. Or add 7-speed STI if desired.
    Thanks Jake! What bike makes you so fast?!

    Does anyone know the smallest to biggest 7sp quality cassette out there. Really appreciate everyone replying to this thread!

  25. #50
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    Here you go: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-HG50...item54039c80a6

    As I said you'll need a new, longer chain. And a MTB rear derailer to handle the 32T cog.

    The bike that you ride makes you fast! Ride any bike enough and you will be fast. But I will admit I'm fond of my carbon USPS Trek.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

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