Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-01-14, 11:47 AM   #26
scububa
Member
 
scububa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: St. Louis
Bikes: Litespeed Classic - DuraAce, Trek 2120 upg w/9-spd Ultegra
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Since I have bought a couple of Shimano cranks, I have the wrenches that came with the crank. I would imagine that's were the bike shop guys get their supply. I also had a couple of riding buddies who would 'only let me' work on their bikes. I would keep the wrench that came with their cranks. They didn't know what to do with it anyway ;-) That plus a six pack was my payment to build their bikes. When ever they needed something done that I didn't have the tool for, the price went up to include them bring me the tool.
scububa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-14, 12:11 PM   #27
dweenk 
Senior Member
 
dweenk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Maryland
Bikes: 1971 Fuji Finest, Royale, S-10-S, 1976 Motobecane Mirage, 1989 Trek 330, 1100, 1970 Raleigh Sport, and more
Posts: 1,495
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
I use a penny on the back side. It's always worked for me. I'll sel mine for 5.99 + shipping.
dweenk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-14, 12:22 PM   #28
Scrodzilla
There goes Tokyo
 
Scrodzilla's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Bikes: EAI Bare Knuckle, 1975 Raleigh Pro Track
Posts: 26,475
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 37 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobotech View Post
Man, on all the cranksets (dozens, more?) I have disassembled over the last couple of years at the co-op, I have never had an issue taking the bolts off chainrings with nothing more than the allen key. I must just be lucky.
That's usually all it takes here too but every now and again we encounter some very stubborn ones.
__________________
__________________________________

Last edited by Scrodzilla; 03-01-14 at 02:11 PM.
Scrodzilla is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-14, 04:25 PM   #29
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 7
Posts: 18,796
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 218 Post(s)
the VAR tool in no.19 would be useful at the velodrome
where the team may adjust the chain ring and cog choice for the track and weather conditions.
fietsbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-14, 06:31 PM   #30
FastJake
Constant tinkerer
 
FastJake's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Bikes:
Posts: 7,574
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Lots of people recommending the Park tool. I really like Park Tools so I bought the CNW-2, what a worthless POS. Bent the hell out of it the first time I used it on some stubborn bolts.

So, does anyone make a stronger tool? I'll have to try the penny trick. I like the ground off socket idea too.
FastJake is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-14, 06:36 PM   #31
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Posts: 29,406
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
Lots of people recommending the Park tool. I really like Park Tools so I bought the CNW-2, what a worthless POS. Bent the hell out of it the first time I used it on some stubborn bolts.

So, does anyone make a stronger tool? I'll have to try the penny trick. I like the ground off socket idea too.
If you have a bench grinder, buy a cheap (really cheap) screwdriver with the blade the right width. Then grind a hollow in the middle to clear the screw so only the two edges engage.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-14, 08:36 PM   #32
Jeff Wills
Insane Bicycle Mechanic
 
Jeff Wills's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: other Vancouver
Bikes:
Posts: 7,907
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve-in-kville View Post
Bent the pins on the pliers. I took the crank off and have it soaking in WD-40 for a bit. Next I take some heat to it break the bond.

Get one of the cheapy chainring nut tools. Clamp it in a bench vise, pin side up (this takes a little finesse). Plop the offending bolt on the tool, apply downward pressure (a T-style hex wrench helps), and break the screw loose with a short, sharp, shock. It's never failed me.

I suspect they were originally assembled with a minimum of lubrication. When putting them back together, clean the threads then grease them well.

__________________
Jeff Wills

Comcast nuked my web page. It will return soon..
Jeff Wills is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-14, 05:19 AM   #33
Kopsis
Senior Member
 
Kopsis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. Pete, Florida
Bikes:
Posts: 1,089
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
This is one that Truvative got right. Their chainring bolts take a 5mm hex wrench on the front and 6mm on the back. Wonder why a simple idea like that took so long to come up with.
+1

When I switched my FSA crankset over to a Wolftooth chainring, I replaced the bolts with Truvative bolts. So much easier!
Kopsis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-14, 05:59 AM   #34
migrantwing
Senior Member
 
migrantwing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: UK
Bikes: '07 Carrera TDF / 2011 Ghost Race 5000
Posts: 300
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
This is one that Truvative got right. Their chainring bolts take a 5mm hex wrench on the front and 6mm on the back.

+1

Wonder why a simple idea like that took so long to come up with.
'cause then, they can't charge you 10 bucks for a tool
migrantwing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-14, 08:49 AM   #35
HillRider 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
Posts: 28,776
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
If you have a bench grinder, buy a cheap (really cheap) screwdriver with the blade the right width. Then grind a hollow in the middle to clear the screw so only the two edges engage.
Years ago Performance sold a commercial version of this idea. It was a wide blade "screwdriver" with the parts of the blade ground away for clearance but a thin centering post left in the middle. It cleared the bolt's edges but the center post kept it from slipping off sideways. It looked like the working end of the Park CNW-2C but is stronger.
HillRider is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-14, 01:00 PM   #36
Wilfred Laurier
Señor Member
 
Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 3,708
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
i agree with the 'modified wide screwdriver from the dollar store' camp
to paraphrase an insurance commercial
'15 minutes with a file could save you 25% or more on chainring bolt wrenches'
Wilfred Laurier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-14, 01:59 PM   #37
fietsbob 
coprolite
 
fietsbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 7
Posts: 18,796
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 218 Post(s)
have had the same tool I got in the 80s with my M730 crank ..
it also has a pin spanner for the particular dust cap that Shimano made back then ..

now I tape and rubber-band the 2 additional tools I need on my Mountain Drive crank..
another folded sheet metal spanner and a small allen wrench for the setscrew in the center..

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-02-14 at 02:03 PM.
fietsbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-14, 04:37 PM   #38
LesterOfPuppets
cowboy, steel horse, etc
 
LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Rock Springs, WY
Bikes: My War
Posts: 26,480
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Years ago Performance sold a commercial version of this idea. It was a wide blade "screwdriver" with the parts of the blade ground away for clearance but a thin centering post left in the middle. It cleared the bolt's edges but the center post kept it from slipping off sideways. It looked like the working end of the Park CNW-2C but is stronger.

I got a screwdriver style chainring nut driver just about 5 years ago. I think Price Point had it.

Looks like it's a Lifu unit.

Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 03-02-14 at 04:42 PM.
LesterOfPuppets is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-14, 04:45 PM   #39
FBinNY 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Posts: 29,406
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 80 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
Years ago Performance sold a commercial version of this idea. It was a wide blade "screwdriver" with the parts of the blade ground away for clearance but a thin centering post left in the middle. It cleared the bolt's edges but the center post kept it from slipping off sideways. .
Yes, it was a knockoff of a decades old VAR tool. I believe the VAR version is still made. Here's one from Cyclo in the UK, but I don't think it's made anymore.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1269015914649-mqx1jquwyedn-399-80.jpg (7.4 KB, 9 views)
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-14, 05:29 PM   #40
bikeman715
Senior Member
 
bikeman715's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Salinas , Ca.
Bikes: Bike Nashbar AL-1 ,Raligh M50 , Schwinn Traveler , and others
Posts: 2,402
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
There is the shimano tool which is stronger that the parktool one .
bikeman715 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:20 PM.