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  1. #26
    Member scububa's Avatar
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    Since I have bought a couple of Shimano cranks, I have the wrenches that came with the crank. I would imagine that's were the bike shop guys get their supply. I also had a couple of riding buddies who would 'only let me' work on their bikes. I would keep the wrench that came with their cranks. They didn't know what to do with it anyway ;-) That plus a six pack was my payment to build their bikes. When ever they needed something done that I didn't have the tool for, the price went up to include them bring me the tool.
    When you're there, you know there's a There there.
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  2. #27
    Senior Member
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    I use a penny on the back side. It's always worked for me. I'll sel mine for 5.99 + shipping.

  3. #28
    The Stark Fist of Reality Scrodzilla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobotech View Post
    Man, on all the cranksets (dozens, more?) I have disassembled over the last couple of years at the co-op, I have never had an issue taking the bolts off chainrings with nothing more than the allen key. I must just be lucky.
    That's usually all it takes here too but every now and again we encounter some very stubborn ones.
    Last edited by Scrodzilla; 03-01-14 at 01:11 PM.

  4. #29
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    the VAR tool in no.19 would be useful at the velodrome
    where the team may adjust the chain ring and cog choice for the track and weather conditions.

  5. #30
    Constant tinkerer FastJake's Avatar
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    Lots of people recommending the Park tool. I really like Park Tools so I bought the CNW-2, what a worthless POS. Bent the hell out of it the first time I used it on some stubborn bolts.

    So, does anyone make a stronger tool? I'll have to try the penny trick. I like the ground off socket idea too.
    Why "derailer" is the correct way to spell the gear-change mechanism: sheldonbrown.com/derailer.html

  6. #31
    Senior Member
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    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastJake View Post
    Lots of people recommending the Park tool. I really like Park Tools so I bought the CNW-2, what a worthless POS. Bent the hell out of it the first time I used it on some stubborn bolts.

    So, does anyone make a stronger tool? I'll have to try the penny trick. I like the ground off socket idea too.
    If you have a bench grinder, buy a cheap (really cheap) screwdriver with the blade the right width. Then grind a hollow in the middle to clear the screw so only the two edges engage.
    FB
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    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

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  7. #32
    Insane Bicycle Mechanic Jeff Wills's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by steve-in-kville View Post
    Bent the pins on the pliers. I took the crank off and have it soaking in WD-40 for a bit. Next I take some heat to it break the bond.

    Get one of the cheapy chainring nut tools. Clamp it in a bench vise, pin side up (this takes a little finesse). Plop the offending bolt on the tool, apply downward pressure (a T-style hex wrench helps), and break the screw loose with a short, sharp, shock. It's never failed me.

    I suspect they were originally assembled with a minimum of lubrication. When putting them back together, clean the threads then grease them well.

    Jeff Wills

    All my bikes.

  8. #33
    Senior Member Kopsis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
    This is one that Truvative got right. Their chainring bolts take a 5mm hex wrench on the front and 6mm on the back. Wonder why a simple idea like that took so long to come up with.
    +1

    When I switched my FSA crankset over to a Wolftooth chainring, I replaced the bolts with Truvative bolts. So much easier!

  9. #34
    Senior Member migrantwing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Burkhart View Post
    This is one that Truvative got right. Their chainring bolts take a 5mm hex wrench on the front and 6mm on the back.

    +1

    Wonder why a simple idea like that took so long to come up with.
    'cause then, they can't charge you 10 bucks for a tool
    Ghost Race 5000 (2011) Shimano 105 Black

  10. #35
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    If you have a bench grinder, buy a cheap (really cheap) screwdriver with the blade the right width. Then grind a hollow in the middle to clear the screw so only the two edges engage.
    Years ago Performance sold a commercial version of this idea. It was a wide blade "screwdriver" with the parts of the blade ground away for clearance but a thin centering post left in the middle. It cleared the bolt's edges but the center post kept it from slipping off sideways. It looked like the working end of the Park CNW-2C but is stronger.

  11. #36
    Senior Member Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
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    i agree with the 'modified wide screwdriver from the dollar store' camp
    to paraphrase an insurance commercial
    '15 minutes with a file could save you 25% or more on chainring bolt wrenches'

  12. #37
    coprolite fietsbob's Avatar
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    have had the same tool I got in the 80s with my M730 crank ..
    it also has a pin spanner for the particular dust cap that Shimano made back then ..

    now I tape and rubber-band the 2 additional tools I need on my Mountain Drive crank..
    another folded sheet metal spanner and a small allen wrench for the setscrew in the center..
    Last edited by fietsbob; 03-02-14 at 01:03 PM.

  13. #38
    Quirky Grifter LesterOfPuppets's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Years ago Performance sold a commercial version of this idea. It was a wide blade "screwdriver" with the parts of the blade ground away for clearance but a thin centering post left in the middle. It cleared the bolt's edges but the center post kept it from slipping off sideways. It looked like the working end of the Park CNW-2C but is stronger.

    I got a screwdriver style chainring nut driver just about 5 years ago. I think Price Point had it.

    Looks like it's a Lifu unit.
    Last edited by LesterOfPuppets; 03-02-14 at 03:42 PM.
    1980ish Free Spirit Sunbird fixed * 1996 Mongoose IBOC Zero-G * 1997 KHS Comp * 1990-ish Scapin * Lemond Buenos Aires Triple

  14. #39
    Senior Member
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    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
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    Quote Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
    Years ago Performance sold a commercial version of this idea. It was a wide blade "screwdriver" with the parts of the blade ground away for clearance but a thin centering post left in the middle. It cleared the bolt's edges but the center post kept it from slipping off sideways. .
    Yes, it was a knockoff of a decades old VAR tool. I believe the VAR version is still made. Here's one from Cyclo in the UK, but I don't think it's made anymore.

    1269015914649-mqx1jquwyedn-399-80.jpg
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  15. #40
    Senior Member bikeman715's Avatar
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    There is the shimano tool which is stronger that the parktool one .
    bikeman715

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