Removing chainring bolts?
02-28-14, 04:06 PM
#1
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Removing chainring bolts?
I am changing the chainring on my new Kilo TT FG bike. Are there any tricks to holding the slotted nuts? I looked on youtube for ideas but nothing that has worked thus far. I see that Park Tool sells a wrench for this, but I would have to mail order one.
Any help?
Any help?
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02-28-14, 04:14 PM
#2
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You can use a flat head screwdriver to hold the nut(s) , other than that get the Park 's tool .
02-28-14, 04:39 PM
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I tried all kinds of improvised solutions the first time I tried this. Long story short, I had to buy the Park chainring nut tool. And even with the right tool it took a combination of finesse and force to get them loose.
02-28-14, 04:48 PM
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I rarely need to hold the nuts. The trick is to loosen with a quick snapping action, which will pop the screw loose (doesn't always work). Once it's a bit loose you can usually hold the nut with direct thumb pressure. In a few cases where the thread may be sticky, especially if some shoemaker used locktite on the threads.
For installing and to prevent issues, you can use some lapping compound under the rim of the nut. This will effectively bind it to the ring and hold it while you tighten or loosen. If you prefer, locktite or a similar adhesive under the nut's rim does the same thing.
For installing and to prevent issues, you can use some lapping compound under the rim of the nut. This will effectively bind it to the ring and hold it while you tighten or loosen. If you prefer, locktite or a similar adhesive under the nut's rim does the same thing.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-28-14, 05:18 PM
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after a number of years of trying to "make do", i went to my LBS and tried to buy a chainring wrench. the mechanic GAVE ME his. he said they were cheap... i don't doubt him. it's just a piece of 1/16", on a good day, stamped steel that's been bent in a couple of places. pretty flimsy, but usually works.
BTW, when i don't have the tool handy, i've managed from time to time to get them off, and on, by vigorously turning the male portion while imparting a lot of sideways torque. the friction heats up the female portion causing her (
) to bind in the spider.
BTW, when i don't have the tool handy, i've managed from time to time to get them off, and on, by vigorously turning the male portion while imparting a lot of sideways torque. the friction heats up the female portion causing her (
) to bind in the spider.
Last edited by hueyhoolihan; 02-28-14 at 05:22 PM.
02-28-14, 05:18 PM
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A wide blade screwdriver should span the slots in the nuts. The proper tool is the Park or similar spanner.
02-28-14, 05:23 PM
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after a number of years of trying to "make do", i went to my LBS and tried to buy a chainring wrench. the mechanic GAVE ME his. he said they were cheap... i don't doubt him. it's just a piece of 1/16", on a good day, stamped steel that's been bent in a couple of places. pretty flimsy, but usually works. .
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-28-14, 05:25 PM
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A wide blade screwdriver often works, but just as often doesn't because the screw extends beyond the depth of the slot. You need to use a blade wide enough, then grind out the center, so only two small edges of the blade can fit around the screw.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-28-14, 05:27 PM
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02-28-14, 05:29 PM
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Yes, if you have the right one (the discontinued red one), and a very steady hand. The current crop's pins are too fat.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
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“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
02-28-14, 05:29 PM
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Removing chainring bolts?
I have used a snap ring plier with some success. Sometimes you can find them in the cheapy bin at your hardware store.
02-28-14, 05:36 PM
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02-28-14, 07:05 PM
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Yeah, some do and some don't. The Shimano cranks of several vintages I have all have the bolts short enough that a wide screwdriver blade can span the nut's notches without interference. I've had others that don't work.
02-28-14, 07:06 PM
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+1, Park CNW-2, the right tool for the job. Grease the threads to ease removing them the next time.
02-28-14, 07:15 PM
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This is one that Truvative got right. Their chainring bolts take a 5mm hex wrench on the front and 6mm on the back. Wonder why a simple idea like that took so long to come up with.
02-28-14, 07:45 PM
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Works like a charm.
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02-28-14, 08:00 PM
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put grease on the threads
and on the head of the bolt
but not on the nut
this way the friction will be greater on the nut than on the greased threads
and on the head of the bolt
but not on the nut
this way the friction will be greater on the nut than on the greased threads
02-28-14, 08:30 PM
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Used to be these wrenches were included with each crankset. They work, but not real well. This is what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/Var-Combined-T.../dp/B004YJ2X7Q
https://www.amazon.com/Var-Combined-T.../dp/B004YJ2X7Q
03-01-14, 08:59 AM
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Used to be these wrenches were included with each crankset. They work, but not real well. This is what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/Var-Combined-T.../dp/B004YJ2X7Q
https://www.amazon.com/Var-Combined-T.../dp/B004YJ2X7Q
03-01-14, 09:34 AM
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Just went to the harware store and bought a snap-ring pliers. We'll see what happens.
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03-01-14, 10:05 AM
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Bent the pins on the pliers. I took the crank off and have it soaking in WD-40 for a bit. Next I take some heat to it break the bond.
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03-01-14, 11:14 AM
#24
Your cog is slipping.
Used to be these wrenches were included with each crankset. They work, but not real well. This is what you need:
https://www.amazon.com/Var-Combined-T.../dp/B004YJ2X7Q
https://www.amazon.com/Var-Combined-T.../dp/B004YJ2X7Q
This works just as well for occasional use if the Park Tool spanner isn't cutting it.
03-01-14, 11:44 AM
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Man, on all the cranksets (dozens, more?) I have disassembled over the last couple of years at the co-op, I have never had an issue taking the bolts off chainrings with nothing more than the allen key. I must just be lucky.