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  1. #51
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by LONO100 View Post
    good point on the bianchi being a double, and as it sits right now, the FD in question sits high, but i looked at trying to lower it, but it seems that any lower, and the chain would then be coming into contact with the top of the cage , thats why i didnt want to lower it any more than it already is. i could give it a shot, but it looks like it would start coming into contact with parts of the cage that it shouldnt.
    don't worry about this
    you're visualising required clearance assuming a chain is covering the teeth
    in actuality the chain will always be inbetween the FD cage plates, never directly under the edge of one
    hence cage to ring clearance only needs to worry about the naked teeth

  2. #52
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    Scott Scale 950, bianchi via nirone, bianchi fremont, GT avalanche 1.0, kona Muni-mula, nishiki century singlespeed, bianchi strada singlespeed conversion, bianchi eros robinson BMX, haro mirra, custom low rider bike
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    i know its supposed to shift back down, i was quoting myself from an earlier post when i was asked what happens "when i pull on the cable" from an earlier poster. here is the problem and a quick summary of this thread: when the bike is on my park stand, it shifts up and down, not perfectly, but it shifts. once i put it to the road, it becomes harder to shift, it goes from ring to ring roughly and it takes much more force from my hands to the lever to upshift when im riding it than it does when its on the stand. i am aware that putting weight or load on the chain would cause these symptoms but when i test ride it, i am on flat ground and not putting much weight on the pedals as i mentioned in the beginning of the thread. i changed the cable and housing, i inspected the cage and the inside of it looks pretty good, the deraileur is sitting a bit high, but it looks like if i try to lower it any, the chain would then be running into the top part of the cage. i noticed that the barrel adjuster doesnt seem to hold as tight as normal, and the chain ring teeth look quite warn. hope this clears things up

  3. #53
    Senior Member Wilfred Laurier's Avatar
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    front derailleur cable housing
    looks to be slightly too short
    but not as severe as both brake cable housings

    it also looks like you might have spiral wound housing on your f der cable
    instead of the lengthwise wound compressionless housing needed for accurate indexed shifting
    although you should be able to get away with this with a front derialleur

    also
    it looks like you are missing a ferrule
    or cable housing end
    on the lower end of the f der cable housing
    and ferrules are mandatory to achieve proper shifting

    also
    rear derailleur cable housing looks too long
    and seems to have a kink near the headtube

  4. #54
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    copy/paste links: http://velospace.org/node/36949 http://velospace.org/node/47746 http://velospace.org/node/47747
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    Have you positioned the FD properly yet? 6mm is miles out.

  5. #55
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    You sometimes get this problem if the chain or chainset is badly warn. If this is not the case the derailleur may be set to high, it should be 1mm above the teeth of the biggest chain ring

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