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  1. #1
    Senior Member spdracr39's Avatar
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    crankset questiion

    I need to replace my triple fsa vero crankset. I was wanting to go with a shimano sora so it matches the derailuers. Will I have to change the BB also and will I need any special tools.

  2. #2
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    Whether or not you need to change your BB depends entirely upon what you've got and what you'd like to replace it with, neither of which have you specified.

    Having said that you can often get cranksets with BBs included for a good price so you might consider just changing your old one out.

  3. #3
    Senior Member spdracr39's Avatar
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    It is the original that came with the fsa crank set. I cant seem to find exactly what it uses or if it is compatable. I suppose it would be easiest to change the whole thing but I am intimidated because it is my first time to do much work on a bike. I guess the question now would be will there be any issue replacing the fsa BB with the Shimano one. I could just get an fsa crankset but I like the looks of the Shimano better and it isn't that much more expensive. I will keep digging thanks.

  4. #4
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr39 View Post
    I need to replace my triple fsa vero crankset.
    Why? I can understand why you might want to replace it. But need? Did you break it?

    FTR, your FSA Vero appears to be a traditional square-taper job from an image search. As a three-piece internal bearing crankset this is so totally not compatible with two-piece, external bearing Hollowtech II.

    Depending on the tool interface used on the FSA BB, it might be somewhat difficult for an inexperienced wrench to remove if you're unlucky, but shouldn't prove insurmountable.

    The lighter and stiffer HT2 setup is vastly easier to work with than square taper, but chews bearings something like 5-10 times faster, wearing about as fast as a well-used big ring. And it's important to replace the BB as soon as it develops slop, or you risk wearing grooves in the BB spindle (which is married to the right crank), particularly if it's one of the aluminium ones.

  5. #5
    Senior Member spdracr39's Avatar
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    The large chainring is in poor condition with some broken/shortened teeth tips the BB is fine however as far as I can tell ( no noise or play). I am mechanically inclined but have never worked on bikes before. I will also change the chain and potentially the rear cassette so the drive train will be all new. I just purchased this bike and it appears to have been heavily used but cosmetically well maintained. I am not having any issues yet but foresee problems in the near future and just trying to make a plan in advance. I am going to ride it more when the weather allows so I can get components that will enhance my riding experience and appearance. the wheelset was already upgraded so the hubs, wheels, and tires are new. The only issue I have is the drivetrain seems loud to me. Not grinding but just i can hear it more than my other bikes. I cleaned and lubed everything and it helped some. I am having a little difficulty with smooth shifts from middle to large chain ring but I think that is because of the bad teeth.
    01212_hPFkQhccquX_600x450.jpg

  6. #6
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spdracr39 View Post
    The large chainring is in poor condition with some broken/shortened teeth tips .......
    You might compare tis to some other large chain rings.
    Many have "odd" teeth to assist in shifting.
    Do the "broken" teeth appear to be in a specific sequence around the ring? Every nth tooth?

  7. #7
    bike whisperer Kimmo's Avatar
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    Forget the chainring tooth tips, they look like that to help shifting. Poor front shifting is most likely caused by less-than-perfect FD adjustment. The outer cage plate should be parallel to the chainrings, the inner limit should just clear the chain in first gear (small/big) and the cable shouldn't go floppy when fully released.

    Measure 12" worth of chain under tension. If it's less than 12&1/16", you're golden. If it's approaching or past 12&1/8" it could have caused wear to the cogs and rings.

    The only way to check the wear on your rings aside from a visual inspection is to wrap a new chain on it and lift it up; if you can see a whole tooth under the chain, the ring is shagged. Likewise if you can feel the drivetrain throb under load. If your rings pass these tests, they're fine, unless they're bent. The main thing to look out for is the throb appearing under power; this indicates a lack of efficiency and accelerated wear.

    As for the noise level, a multitude of factors can contribute to that, so it may not be indicative of anything amiss, particularly if the chain isn't Shimano.

  8. #8
    Senior Member spdracr39's Avatar
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    It is not a Shimano chain. The odd teeth do seem to be consistently about 1/3 of the way around. I did adjust the FD and on the stand and it shifts pretty good now but due to the snow I haven't road tested it yet. Shorts last weekend, Snow and ice yesterday and today, 60's again friday. WTH is up with this weather !!!
    photo 3.jpg

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