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  1. #1
    Senior Member biker7's Avatar
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    Calling all Campy techs that have rebuilt Campy brifters. Question is...how many detents in the rachets for LH and RH Campy Brifters respectively? I believe it is 12 for the FD/LH Brifter and 10 for the RD/RH Brifter with 10 speed Campy driveline. Is this correct? Last question is...when setting up the cable for the FD...do you guys intially set cable tension to one side?...with all the slack out on the smallest chain ring? It stands to reason with 12 incremental clicks or so...or that much racheting capability...setting the cable initally with one or two clicks tension in the cable on the smallest ring may be a better target for intially setting the tension for the FD. In the rear of course, since it is one click for each cog, one doesn't have any choice but to set intial cable tension with RH brifter at full slack or last of 9 thumb clicks (10 speeds) with the chain on the smallest cog.
    Thanks for any perspective,
    George

  2. #2
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biker7
    Last question is...when setting up the cable for the FD...do you guys intially set cable tension to one side?...with all the slack out on the smallest chain ring? It stands to reason with 12 incremental clicks or so...or that much racheting capability...setting the cable initally with one or two clicks tension in the cable on the smallest ring may be a better target for intially setting the tension for the FD.
    Didn't it come with instructions?

  3. #3
    Senior Member biker7's Avatar
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    You obviously haven't read them or you would know the above isn't covered. Campy's PDF files, while a decent reference, don't address the above. Anybody else?...any Campy techs on the board?...thought we may have one or two that have rebuilt Campy brifters on this forum.
    George

  4. #4
    human velocipedio's Avatar
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    i have, once, but i really can't remember the details. i think i got directions from www.campyonly.com .
    when walking, just walk. when sitting, just sit. when riding, just ride. above all, don't wobble.

    The Irregular Cycling Club of Montreal
    Cycling irregularly since 2002

  5. #5
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biker7
    You obviously haven't read them or you would know the above isn't covered. Campy's PDF files, while a decent reference, don't address the above. Anybody else?...any Campy techs on the board?...thought we may have one or two that have rebuilt Campy brifters on this forum.
    George
    Click the thumb shifter for the front till all the cable is played out. With the chain on the small ring and big cog adjust low limit screw, so there is .5 to 1mm clearance between chain and FD inner plate. Attach cable to derailer correctly,removing as much cable slack as possible.Use tension adjuster so that initial movement of lever causes derailer movement. It matters not if if you start on the first or whichever click in the shifter or how many clicks the shifter has. You are looking for positive derailer movemmment and enough travel in the shifer to get from the small to the big ring. I know that is a too simple minded an answer for you,but trust me.That really is all there is too it, other than possibly a bit of final tweaking of the limits and or tension. It is not required to know how many detents the ratchet has in order to adjust it properly....And, I'm not gonna go count em for you!.

  6. #6
    Forum Admin lotek's Avatar
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    Branford Bike has detailed instructions on rebuilding campy
    Brifters, and exploded views of the internal parts.

    I'm moving this to mechanics forum where you will
    probably get more detailed answer.

    Marty
    Sono pił lento di quel che sembra.
    Odio la gente, tutti.

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  7. #7
    Senior Member biker7's Avatar
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    Thanks Marty...appreciate it. And will respond over on the Mechanic's forum to what you wrote Sydney...thanks for your response.
    George

  8. #8
    Senior Member biker7's Avatar
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    Sydney...to respond to your instructions above which I do appreciate and is pretty standard fare I might add based upon the generic procedure posted on Campy's site...where I differ with you is..."for the LH brifter/ front derailleur"...not RH brifter...it isn't desireable to set the inboard small chain ring up at "the last click with all the slack out of the cable" for the LH Brifter. Why?...because as you add tension to the cable for adjustment...you don't want the travel of the cable to limit your full derailleur travel back down to the small chain ring stop. No need...you have plenty of clicks to get all the way up to the big ring and then some...and conversely you don't have to limit travel back down by initially setting the front derailleur cable at full extension or at maximum no. of clicks. Because you have a lot of clicks/detents in the LH brifter to work with to encompass the full range of travel from small to big ring, a better approach is to set the small ring up with one or clicks of tension in the LH Brifter cable. That way you will encompass the variablity of any tension adjustment you make to the cable during break in/cable stretch...to always have enough slack/another click if needed to firmly hit the small chain ring travel stop" coming down. All there is to it.
    George
    P.S. as to my original question...I sent an e-mail to a Campy tech referenced in the Branford site showing the rebuild instructions and will post on the board accordingly with the answer....Thanks again Marty for the Branford site reference.

  9. #9
    Senior Member biker7's Avatar
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    Got the answer...Andrew Muzi a Campy tech took an '05 Centaur left brifter and counted 13 clicks. His response was there are more clicks in the LH Brifter than RH....there are 9 clicks in a 10 speed RH brifter. He stated that front clicks move less cable than rear clicks, i.e., the range is less total travel which incidentally fits with fewer clicks and larger spacing for the same size ratchet diameter. Without taking both apart, it is likely the diameter of each rachet is the same but the spacing of each detent is a bit farther apart for the RH brifter as the chain needs to move a bit more per click in the rear at one click per cog change...where as taking multiple clicks in front to move the FD over one chain ring.

    For those interested, here is an informative link that shows an exploded view of a Campy Ergo Brifter...a good read...and rebuildable with some patience:

    http://www.yellowjersey.org/ergo1.html

    George
    Last edited by biker7; 03-18-05 at 11:10 AM.

  10. #10
    Senior Member sydney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biker7
    Sydney...to respond to your instructions above which I do appreciate and is pretty standard fare I might add based upon the generic procedure posted on Campy's site...where I differ with you is..."for the LH brifter/ front derailleur"...not RH brifter...it isn't desireable to set the inboard small chain ring up at "the last click with all the slack out of the cable" for the LH Brifter. Why?...because as you add tension to the cable for adjustment...you don't want the travel of the cable to limit your full derailleur travel back down to the small chain ring stop. No need...you have plenty of clicks to get all the way up to the big ring and then some...and conversely you don't have to limit travel back down by initially setting the front derailleur cable at full extension or at maximum no. of clicks. Because you have a lot of clicks/detents in the LH brifter to work with to encompass the full range of travel from small to big ring, a better approach is to set the small ring up with one or clicks of tension in the LH Brifter cable. That way you will encompass the variablity of any tension adjustment you make to the cable during break in/cable stretch...to always have enough slack/another click if needed to firmly hit the small chain ring travel stop" coming down. All there is to it.
    George
    Typicaly overanalysis that ends up bankrupt as usual.Curious that mine ends up workng flawlessly. But whatever..........

  11. #11
    Senior Member biker7's Avatar
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    You only think yours shifts flawlessly because you don't know any better. As I said before, I am quite convinced you don't even own a bike...lol. You and that scrap drawer of yours...you sleep in there?
    The only thing bankrupt besides your poor grammar and repulsive tone to virtually all your posts is your convoluted version of the truth.
    Who's your daddy...say it.
    George

  12. #12
    The Red Lantern Rev.Chuck's Avatar
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    Personally, I take them apart one at a time and keep any new parts bagged until install.
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    I am in the woods and I have gone crazy.

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