jefft72

I bought this bike from someone here in town and it was a basket case. I am taking the opportunity to learn about bike mechanics as I get this bike road ready. My intent is to be riding this bike hopefully sooner rather than later. I feel that I am close, but need to correct a few things before I get there.

My biggest question has to do with the rear wheel/axle assembly. I figured I would post pictures to aid in giving the best illustration about the issue and to help others who may be in a similar situation.

Problem #1 : The rear axle is missing something, but I am not sure what. My best guess is that it is some sort of spacer. Currently on the drive side there is only the cone and lock nuts. As it is currently, the skewer nut bottoms out without actually locking the wheel into the drops.
Problem #2 : The rear derailleur hanger needs a bolt to attach it to the drops. Is this sort of special bolt/nut combo or can I use general hardware?

Thanks in advance.

Axle Assembly:



RD Hanger attachment (bolt inserted currently is simply to hold it in place):

FBinNY 

Yes, you're missing something.

You need spacers and a locknut to bring the axle face out past the freewheel by about 3mm. That way the frame closes against the axle faces and the freewheel is inboard with chain clearance and free to spin. Total axle width form face to face (excludes the axle itself which is longer) should equal 120mm or 126mm depending on when it was made, bit either will be about 11mm shorter than the overall length of the axle.


Hub vary in their cone, locknut and spacer arrangement. Some (I suspect yours) use a locknut against the cone, then spacers and a locknut,m or a thick nut which incorporates the spacers. Others are simply cone, spacers and a locknut.

If the bearings are still correctly adjusted, then you don't have to remove the freewheel, and can simply add the spacers and nut. If the bearings need adjusting, remove the freewheel, add the spacers, and adjust the bearings.

AnkleWork

Here's a crazy weird suggestion: remove the wheel from the frame, take a photo in good light, in focus of the hub and axle, just off axis. Then post it here.

jefft72

Thanks for the speedy reply. Seems that it would be wise to take the entire wheel into the shop to find the proper sized spacer.

I did remove the freewheel for cleaning and while I was as it cleaned/lubed the bearings. I did not move the non-drive side cone nut.

Once I get this rear axle things taken care of I will only need to replace derailleur cables, adjust brakes/derailleurs, and do some wheel work on the front wheel. I will likely be back with additional questions.

FBinNY 

The problem is obvious in the first photo. Another photo isn't needed.

BTW, to the OP. You also have to reposition the "claw" that holds the derailleur on. It goes entirely in the dropout slot, with the screw and nut fully at the back of the slot so the outer plate lays flat against the dropout.

jefft72

re: AnkleWork

I can do that as well. I was hoping that a photo of the wheel in place on the frame would be a better illustration of the problem.

SquidPuppet

Your pics were perfect.

FBinNY 

Jeff,

There's a good co-op in Huston. They'll likely have the spacer nut you need, plus can help with the rest of the stuff at low cost. You might also get involved with them as a volunteer and pay it forward.

In any case, be sure to properly mount that derailleur hanger before continuing.

BTW- here's some pictures of hubs similar to yours. Look at the first two, the built hub ans the one piece nut/spacer I described, the disassembled one has a flat locknut with thick spacer. Either is fine for you as long as you end u at the right width.

jefft72

Thanks for the very useful information. I will put a thick spacer on my shopping list. Bringing the wheel with me will help to ensure that I get the correct piece.

Here are a couple of pictures of the drop out and RD. Having the RD fork fully set into the drops was how I had initially thought it needed to go. Without a way to secure the RD to the dropout without the wheel in place seemed odd to me. If I were to remove the rear wheel the RD would drop out of place as well. If that's the way it is then so be it, but it did seem wonky, not to mention overly troublesome.

FBinNY 

Yes, where you had it (using the fender eye) was wrong. Where you're holding it in the second photo is right.

AnkleWork

Right, "perfect." I knew that most posters would agree that it was a crazy suggestion.

Homebrew01

The derailleur "claw" should have a nut & bolt for the small hole to keep it in place. The "nut" is rather odd looking. It has 3 flat sides and 1 curved side and fits in the frame dropout slot, which stops it from turning while you tighten the screw.

SquidPuppet

Good morning sunshine.
Bait taken. Congrats.

jefft72

Thanks for the hanger nut suggestion. A light bulb went off and I realized that the hanger nut/bolt combo work to secure the RD to the drops and at the same time extend the drop slot. Shopping list appended.
- Large spacer for rear axle
- rd hanger nut/bolt
- shifter cables
-shifter housings
-15mm cone wrench

I should have paid less than what I did for this bike, but I will view it as the price of admission into the school. And truth be told none of the items on the list are expensive. The chain was priciest piece. It's just that the bike is so close and I am overly anxious to ride.

Speaking of which, it's lunch time. The weather is great and I am going out for a ride.

dabac

The odd-looking nut is handy, as it holds the derailer in place with the wheel removed. But it isn't needed when the wheel is in place. Don't break your back trying to find one. Positioning the claw by hand,then tightening the wheel nut/cr will do just fine.