My Shimano 600 RH brifters are failing!
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My Shimano 600 RH brifters are failing!
When it was just one bike, I figured it was destiny and that I could deal with it.
I now have two Shimano 600 8S equipped bikes, and both the RH brifters are failing, usually to engage on the upshift (from small rear to larger rear). It just is a void.
this could just be old age but it completely ruins the ensemble.
anyone have experience or a suggested fix or salve for this?
many thanks
Peter
I now have two Shimano 600 8S equipped bikes, and both the RH brifters are failing, usually to engage on the upshift (from small rear to larger rear). It just is a void.
this could just be old age but it completely ruins the ensemble.
anyone have experience or a suggested fix or salve for this?
many thanks
Peter
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Sometimes they just die from old age, but often it's curable problem caused by dried gummy lube and dirt. Flush with WD-40, or a similar solvent, ans work the mechanism while wet, to loosen and flush the crud. I find it easiest to shift to low, then work the lever while tensioning the cable by pulling it away from the downtube. This eliminates the need to pedal. Or you can do the same with the rear wheel off.
One it's flushed and acting normally, let it dry, then lube with something very light.
One it's flushed and acting normally, let it dry, then lube with something very light.
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WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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Flushing may or may not work and is a Band aid IMO. It did not work for me, I ended totally disassembling , cleaning and re-lubing. Their are two different venders on Ebay who will do this for you, or you can buy a 10 speed campy Veloce for 115.00 with cables and be good for a long while as they use the same 2.8 cable pull. Their aere places inside those shifterts you are not going to flush out , even with a can of brake clean and compressed air.
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if it is just dried up grease then flushing with solvent works 90% of the time. for the last 10% i strip it off the bike and throw it in the heated parts washer. relube with oil when done and oil periodically. if a part is physically broken then it is junk
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Spray WD40 [through the straw] till you're bored of spraying, then soldier on and keep spraying. If it works wait a day for the solvent (yes, wd40 is a solvent) to evaporate the follow with a proper lubricant like triflow or chain-l #5 . These shifters are rather robust, burning a $4 can of wd40 before you write them off seems like a lot of potential reward for not a lot risk.
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Having pulled them apart it's my opinion is that there are places inside those shifters where you are not getting grease out of and lube into unless they are disassembled. For shifter longevity grease is going to be a much better choice than light oil IMO . How long does light oil hang around in tight clearances in your chain for example?
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One problem with Shimano brifters is there are no repair or replacement parts available. So, if degreasing and relubing isn't sufficient, the only alternative is replacement and, of course, 8-speed has been out of print for a long time.
I've seen Fred's recommendation for using Campy's 10-speed brifters as a compatible replacement elsewhere and it seems to be a viable alternative if you want to stay with 8-speed.
I've seen Fred's recommendation for using Campy's 10-speed brifters as a compatible replacement elsewhere and it seems to be a viable alternative if you want to stay with 8-speed.
#12
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Otoh
8 speeds still show up on lower cost new bikes, so, they are sold as a repair part, as well, 1 per box.
LBS, here, tries to have 1 on hand.
customers are not as flush for cash around here , so that is reflected in the inventory.
LBS, here, tries to have 1 on hand.
customers are not as flush for cash around here , so that is reflected in the inventory.
Last edited by fietsbob; 03-28-14 at 08:34 AM.
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Having pulled them apart it's my opinion is that there are places inside those shifters where you are not getting grease out of and lube into unless they are disassembled. For shifter longevity grease is going to be a much better choice than light oil IMO . How long does light oil hang around in tight clearances in your chain for example?
As for lubrication, that can be done the same way but using a thicker oil or grease in solvent to help wicking. Once in place, the solvent evaporates leaving the lubricating film.
BTW- after lubing, let it stabilize (OK to ride) for a while, so all solvent is gone. Then use a Q-tip or rilled corners of a paper towel or rag to dab as much as possible off exposed surfaces. This will help slow the adhesion of dust over time.
The flush and relube cycle can be repeated as needed, and will keep levers working for a long time. Don't get anal, because it is possible to kill with kindness, but doing it once in a while, maybe after a rough winter is good PM.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
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As a practical matter, not only will a thin solvent oil blend penetrate everywhere, there's no way to prevent it from doing so. Capillary action ensures that it'll wick effectively, and the thinner & tighter the spaces the better it'll wick in there.
As for lubrication, that can be done the same way but using a thicker oil or grease in solvent to help wicking. Once in place, the solvent evaporates leaving the lubricating film.
BTW- after lubing, let it stabilize (OK to ride) for a while, so all solvent is gone. Then use a Q-tip or rilled corners of a paper towel or rag to dab as much as possible off exposed surfaces. This will help slow the adhesion of dust over time.
The flush and relube cycle can be repeated as needed, and will keep levers working for a long time. Don't get anal, because it is possible to kill with kindness, but doing it once in a while, maybe after a rough winter is good PM.
As for lubrication, that can be done the same way but using a thicker oil or grease in solvent to help wicking. Once in place, the solvent evaporates leaving the lubricating film.
BTW- after lubing, let it stabilize (OK to ride) for a while, so all solvent is gone. Then use a Q-tip or rilled corners of a paper towel or rag to dab as much as possible off exposed surfaces. This will help slow the adhesion of dust over time.
The flush and relube cycle can be repeated as needed, and will keep levers working for a long time. Don't get anal, because it is possible to kill with kindness, but doing it once in a while, maybe after a rough winter is good PM.
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Having pulled them apart it's my opinion is that there are places inside those shifters where you are not getting grease out of and lube into unless they are disassembled. For shifter longevity grease is going to be a much better choice than light oil IMO . How long does light oil hang around in tight clearances in your chain for example?
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