gunterw

Hi,

I am just getting into cycling. I cycle to work 3-4 times a week: round trip is 27.5 miles - including a lot of very wet weather.

I bought a 2012 Kona Dew Plus last fall (on sale - old model). So far I have put on 970 miles. After about 625 miles the chain wear was 0.50% (measured over a 50" span). So I replaced it. I was using Tri-Flow exclusively (based upon the recommendation of the bike shop I bought the Kona at). I was meticulously oiling and cleaning the chain after almost every ride to work. I was disappointed I only got 625 miles out of the chain. It was a lower quality KMC Z72 chain.

Another bike shop recommend ProLink over the Tri-Flow. They said Tri-Flow is too thin for chain lube.

I am thinking of switching.

Any comments?

Thank you,
Gunter

Chesterton

When you say you only got 625 miles of the chain, did you retire it because it had stretched too far?

I think Tri-Flow is too light for wet conditions, although if you oiled it every ride one would think that would be enough. I use Finish Line Wet, which is a thicker lube. The downside is that a thicker lube will attract more grime and grit, but my bike has a full chaincase so that's not as much of an issue for me.

Even if you do switch to a different chain lube, Tri-Flow is a good light oil for general purpose bike maintenance (oiling fastener threads, pivot points, etc.), so you haven't wasted the bottle if you do other maintenance work yourself.

leob1

Here we go.

gunterw

Yes, I replaced the chain at 625 miles because of wear i.e. 0.50%. I would rather replace chains then cassettes and chain rings

lopek77

I love this topic...I wonder why nobody else started this type of topic earlier.

FBinNY 

How about "neither" as a choice on the poll?

Anyway, unless you're an animal, riding extreme terrain (maybe commuting to the weather station at the top of Mount Wsashington), you get terrible service out of your chain.

I suspect is wasn't the lube, as much as you killing the chain with kindness. Cleaning and oiling too often tends to flush out good lubricant, and carry in dirt, and can be counterproductive.

It also depends on what you're cleaning the chain with, because the cleaning solvent, can keep fresh oil from wicking into the chain where it needs to be.

Shimano, recommends against cleaning chains, but sometimes it is necessary. However you should think about washing chains as you would about washing a cat. Do it only when it's necessary, then do it very carefully.

Lastly, I'm bit curious how you measured chain wear. If using a "chain checker" gadget, be aware that these are notorious for reading high, and it's possible your chain was less worn then you thought. Next time confirm stretch using a 12" ruler before replacing he chain (unless you did).

gunterw

Believe me, I am no animal. I am almost 50 years old and trying to get back into shape. However, I do ride is some very, very wet weather....

As for cleaning, I am simply wiping the chain with a clean rag - no solvents or "cleaners" invloved. I find 5 minutes with a rag and the chain is very clean. Then I add lube (Tri-flow) to every pin on the inside of the chain. I then let is sit overnigt before the next ride to work.

I measured the chain wear by removing the chain from the bike and measuring across 50 inches (50" *0.50% = 1/4" of stretch). I find mesuring over 50 inches to be more accurate then measuring over 12 inches.

FBinNY 

OK, first of all, TriFlow isn't very rain resistant at all, and IMO (remember, I make a competitive product) ProLink isn't much better in that regard.

So if you're riding in the rain a lot, odds are some or much of that time you're riding with water as a lube. Then keep in mind that water doesn't dry out of crevices very rapidly (ever get it trapped under a glass table top?) so there's a good chance that your newly applied lube never penetrated because there was no room at the inn (this is the issue with washing chains).

After riding in the chain, it's important to allow the chain to dry completely before oiling anew.

Lastly, not sure how you're measuring, but 1/2% or 1/16" over 12" would equal 1/4" over 50". Is it possible you blew the math and replaced the chain sooner than necessary?

BTW- for those who do ride in the rain a lot, the number one best way to improve chain life is to use fenders with a mud flap, or at least a front fender. Spray from the front wheel hits the chain edge on with driving force, scrubbing it dry of lube quickly, and blasting road grit deep into it.

If fenders aren't for you, (I don't use them either), make a note of where the worst of the spray passes next time you ride through a puddle. If it's right on the chainrings, you can sometimes move it away by changing the width of the front tire.

I get very mixed reports of lube service life from folks who ride in the rain, I suspect fenders, or the angle of spray are the reason for the big variation.

gunterw

Sorry... my typo... measured the chain wear by removing the chain from the bike and measuring across 50 inches (50" *0.50% = 1/4" of stretch).

lopek77

ProLink is great in wet. Expect more than 100 miles of quiet and well lubed chain, even in a pouring rain. At least that is what I'm experiencing, and I have no desire to change my ProLink lube anytime soon.

arex

I use Tri-Flow, but I do worry that it's too light for a chain.

A similar but heavier spray lube is RemOil, which you'd find in gun shops...back when I serviced printers all the time, RemOil was the perfect light machine oil.

gunterw

I agree 100% about fenders. I have installed full fenders and the front fender even has a mud flap. However, even with the mudflap, I can see the front tire driving water & dirt into the chain. I might try and "extend" the mud flap a little futher to offer the chain more protection.

Wanderer

Since FB didn't say it ----- clean your chain very, very, well, and dry it completely. I find a solvent like naptha, or real mineral spirits, works very well in a gatorade bottle. Change it until it stays clean.

Dry it very thoroughly in a warm place, not exposed to flame.

When thoroughly dry, apply "Chain L" according to directions.

Your chain will be very happy, and so will you. Reapply as needed.

MHO - Chain L is the best there is, over the counter, for chains.

FBinNY 

Thanks,

Sixty Fiver

I have often wondered what oil would work best in a high mileage Fiero...

Wanderer

Shell Rotella T Synthetic, 5W-40, the new concoction............ A true Heavy Duty Oil, in a synthetic, long change, concoction.............

There!!!!!

RoadTire 

Tri-Flow, IMO is way too light. Also I'm thinking you may not have been saturating the rollers enough, and as already been said, any water in the chain wasn't being displaced. On the new chain I'd go with Pro-Link or ChainL. After a ride and the chain dries, maybe u use a stiff brush to get the grime and grit off before applying the lube. Put lots on the chain, spin it around a lot, and wipe the excess of. I wouldn't use Naptha except occasionally on a rag to wipe the heavy grime off. I think the proponents of minimal washing and leaving the factory grease in the chain, just supplementing it with the lube, is your best bet.

bkaapcke

I'm not knocking Pro Link because it's what I use, but I ride only in dry conditions. It's not going to hold up to rain & wet roads either. bk

HillRider

That's dreadful chain life and I also wonder if you measured the "stretch" correctly. The standard way is over 24 pins (center-to-center or left edge to left edge) which should be 12.0" on a new chain and 12-1/16" after 0.5% elongation. Did you measure your 50" of chain using exact reference points at both ends?

I've got over 3000 miles on a mid-level Shimano chain and it measures just under 12-1/16" over 24 pins which is about typical.

Torelli4

+1 Chain L. Used Pro Link for several years but nothing else I've tried beats Chain L. Especially in the rain.

gunterw

I measured the chain wear by removing the chain from the bike and measuring across 100 pins (left edge to left edge) = 50" for a new chain.

100 pins or 50" at 0.50% wear = 1/4" of wear/stretch

I find it easier to measure over 50" and see if the left edge went past the 1/4" mark versus measuring over 12" and trying to determine if the left edge went over the 1/16" mark.

To measure over 50" I put a small nail in my garage wall and very, very accurately measure down 50.25" and place a mark. I then hang the chain from the nail and let it hang. When the edge of the pin is at the 50.25" mark then I know I have 0.50% wear. I measure from the top edge of pin to the top edge of pin. I find this easier and more accurate than trying to mesure over 12".

fietsbob

Any is better than None apply some occasionally ..

FBinNY 

Apparently not, 600 odd miles to kill a chain is pretty damm poor.

fietsbob

I imagine the Fat Bike buying clam diggers riding them on the Beach , stalking the tasty Bivalve

will get pretty low milage out of their chains , due to the beach sand.

djb

one sees very very few of those around anymore. I always notice them as they almost still have a classic shape, almost. ;-)