Yeah, factory lubes are the best IME.
But it's easy to use the study to jump from solid ground into quickstand if you're not careful. They studied the efficiency or power loss in chain drives under lab conditions, using new chains. That's very different than studying how to maximize chain life in the real world. Nor did they study the effects of wear on efficiency.
So, while the study was interesting, it wasn't relevant to the major concern of most riders, which is getting the most bang for their buck out of their hardware. Lubrication comes at a cost in efficiency because lubricants introduce an added source of drag. This is especially true with chains because of the large flat areas between the plates which have virtually zero friction when running aligned and dry, but act like wet clutches when oiled. However lubrication's purpose on chains isn't to improve new efficiency, it's to improve chain life. Standard practice in the machinery world, even for fully enclosed chains is to have the chain continuously and positively oiled. The reason is that chain life is important and warrants some loss in initial efficiency.
So, for those who feel that lubes serve only to keep the elements from getting into your chains, I suggest an experiment you can do at home. Take a new chain, wash it in napatha, doing multiple rinses, to ensure it's clean and dry inside. Mount it on your bike, and do some hard training on a home trainer (no water or dirt) and pound some serious hard miles. Remove the chain and set aside, and repeat with a lubed chain (your choice). Ride the same distance, then compare chains, and draw your own conclusions.
As I say time and again, there are many ways to lubricate a chain, so pick whatever you prefer and go with it. If you want minimum power loss (for a while) run your chain dry.
As far as this thread is concerned, let's call it a case of reasonable people disagreeing, and end it there. Feel free to continue debating, but I have nothing more to add, and readers of this thread are free to draw their own conclusions.
Chain lube threads always trend to vitriol (no, it's not a chain lube). I guess there are three subjects one should avoid: religion, politics, and chain lube. :p
...and yet another vote for bar & chain oil here. It's cheap!
Did we figure out what kind of oil works best in a high mileage Fiero yet ?
OTOH, if it's not burning oil, and compression remains good, stick with what got you there. My Miata has 250k miles on it and loses 1 pint in 3,000 miles, using Castrol 10x50, but that's probably too heavy for your winters.
I think this is one of the reasons the Nissan 1.6 engines last so long... they run very cool and the last one I had went over a million km (700,000 miles).
I don't think the Fiero engines were ever that good.
Japanese vs American... And you guys were laughing at Japanese "junk" few decades ago. I hope everybody learned the lesson and wont be laughing at Chinese "junk".
I have a great experience with Japanese cars, and terrible with American brands. I'm sticking with what works the best for me.
Some of the Nissan engines were impossible to "kill". Times changed though, and the new models are just not the same. It's either cost cutting or weight saving that in many cases will shorten the life of the modern engines, no matter what oil you put in ;-)
Chain-L is good. But use anything, as long as you use it frequently enough. The thinner it is, the more often you have to reapply it.
Well, I for one find cyccommute pretty convincing.
I bought some Chain-L in So. Cal. It has the distinctive oder of gear oil.
Back a couple of decades ago running sew-ups, toe-clips and nail-on cleats, we used to do the hot 90weight treatment to our chains.
Heat the oil, dip chain, drain off excess and wipe it down good. Lasted a long time… same technic…. get the oil into the chain and if thick enough, will stay there. Will let you know how I like the Chain-L gear oil!
I didn't see all the replies until now. Thanks all for the comments, esp. cyccommute #31 for answering my question.
In the past (and currently) I have only used Finish Line Cross Country Chain oil and Pedalite Green Oil. Are these considered as low, medium or high viscosity? I just need some idea of how other oils are like, which I've never used, and how thin are considered thin, how thick are considered thick. My impression seems to be the former had lower viscosity than the latter, though not sure.
FB, that's hilarious!