Cycling and bicycle discussion forums. 
   Click here to join our community Log in to access your Control Panel  


Go Back   > >

Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-03-14, 09:53 PM   #26
dscheidt
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Bikes:
Posts: 1,373
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
I don't generally have problems undoing master links, but the last chain I replaced on my beater (which was pretty well rust and gunk covered, and old) wouldn't come undone, even with a tool. Chain breaker worked fine, since it was junk.
dscheidt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 02:30 AM   #27
Gerryattrick
Beicwyr Hapus
 
Gerryattrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: The Dis-United States of Europe
Bikes: 3 rideable (Genesis, Dawes & Merlin, 2 in pieces (Orange & Dawes)
Posts: 1,283
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 12 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by loimpact View Post
Care to point us in the right direction???

(I tried looking but not having good luck. The strength of a tool like this is in the hinge point. Small jaws & lots of handle make for lots of torque. One might immediately assume snap-ring pliers, but I've also read forums where they say they don't work like the Park tool does)

TIA
Birzman Chain Link Removing Tool | Evans Cycles

This is in the UK, but I'm sure there are similar available in the US.
Gerryattrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 07:46 AM   #28
loimpact
Senior Member
 
loimpact's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: SoCal
Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Supersix Evo 3; 2014 Cannondale Quick 4; 2014 Cannondale Crash 4 hi-mod
Posts: 1,307
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerryattrick View Post
Birzman Chain Link Removing Tool | Evans Cycles

This is in the UK, but I'm sure there are similar available in the US.
And you'd think there would be, but unfortunately, that's not the case. It appears that between amazon & ebay, there just ain't much showing under $10, so might as well just order the Park or KMC tool around $13-$15 anyway.
loimpact is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 09:52 AM   #29
lostarchitect 
incazzare.
 
lostarchitect's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Bikes: See sig
Posts: 6,046
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10 Post(s)
wiggle wiggle wiggle pop!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NG2WW5CTIqc
__________________
1964 JRJ (Bob Jackson), 1973 Wes Mason, 1974 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1986 Schwinn High Sierra, 2000ish Colian (Colin Laing), 2011 Dick Chafe, 2013 Velo Orange Pass Hunter
lostarchitect is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 11:20 AM   #30
redlude97
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Bikes:
Posts: 1,144
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomTroll View Post
Darn!


I'm not sure I have it right. What you recommend sounds obvious, and what I tried. Let me see if I understand: pinch one end of the ML with the thumb and index finger behind the pin, do the same for the other end with the other hand, squeeze the link between each thumb and finger, then push both ends together. That it? I thought I tried that.

It's curious that some people have no idea what I'm talking about - they've never had a problem using their fingers, and one guy never had a problem until he used a KMC. I've been working with chains for years but always used a chain tool after the first 'miracle link' installation; the early ones worked only once.

Here's the KMC tool for $9.45 KMC Missing Link Opener @ eBikeStop.com . I find almost any bike part cheaper at a bike site than Amazon. Shipping makes a difference for some, of course. Same people sell KMC chains by the box of 25 cheap.
I only need the tool for 10 speed chains which may be the discrepancy.
redlude97 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 11:58 AM   #31
Velocivixen 
Senior Member
 
Velocivixen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: The Great Pacific Northwest
Bikes: 1978 Univega Gran Rally, 2015 Surly Straggler, 1985 Nishiki Riviera mixte, 1987 Miyata One Twelve mixte, '71 Raleigh Twenty, 1995 Trek 820
Posts: 3,712
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
I just did this last night and I didn't have a paperclip, but had thick wire. I cut piece of wire about 4" long, then bent each end at 90 degrees - sort of like a "U" shape, but longer and straighter. I placed the ends of the wire between chain links to help take tension off the chain, freeing up the links where the master link goes and it made it easier to do the squeeze & push routine. Hope this helps.
Velocivixen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 12:10 PM   #32
contango 
2 Fat 2 Furious
 
contango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: England
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc, 2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
Posts: 3,998
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomTroll View Post
Darn!


I'm not sure I have it right. What you recommend sounds obvious, and what I tried. Let me see if I understand: pinch one end of the ML with the thumb and index finger behind the pin, do the same for the other end with the other hand, squeeze the link between each thumb and finger, then push both ends together. That it? I thought I tried that.

It's curious that some people have no idea what I'm talking about - they've never had a problem using their fingers, and one guy never had a problem until he used a KMC. I've been working with chains for years but always used a chain tool after the first 'miracle link' installation; the early ones worked only once.

Here's the KMC tool for $9.45 KMC Missing Link Opener @ eBikeStop.com . I find almost any bike part cheaper at a bike site than Amazon. Shipping makes a difference for some, of course. Same people sell KMC chains by the box of 25 cheap.
That sounds about right. What you've got is two halves, each of which has a plate and a pin, and each pin has a slightly thinner section near the end to interlock with the plate of the other piece of the link. So what you need to do is push the two plates closer together and the two ends closer together so you can disengage the pin from the link, then the two should slide freely until they come apart.

The first few times I tried to do it I found it a bit of a faff, not least because the chain kept bending around what I was trying to do. I think I take the tension off the chain so it's slack and hold the ends between by little fingers and palms, so I'm only working with the link and not fighting the chain tension as well. If you've got a chain hook (or anything to take the tension off the section with the missing link) that would do as well.
__________________
"For a list of ways technology has failed to improve quality of life, press three"
contango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 01:46 PM   #33
Metaluna
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New Hampshire
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Soma Double Cross Disc
Posts: 914
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by loimpact View Post
And you'd think there would be, but unfortunately, that's not the case. It appears that between amazon & ebay, there just ain't much showing under $10, so might as well just order the Park or KMC tool around $13-$15 anyway.
Go for the Park 1.2 tool. It's the same price as the KMC (maybe a dollar or two more), and they added a second set of indentations so you can use them to install the link as well as remove it. Some of the KMC links are very tight when they're new and need a lot of force to snap them together.
Metaluna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 01:58 PM   #34
Metaluna
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New Hampshire
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Soma Double Cross Disc
Posts: 914
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by contango View Post
I use KMC X9 chains and just open the link with my hands. Squeeze the plates together, then push the ends together, and it opens. If you push the ends slightly together as you squeeze the plates together that may help.
The problem is, there seems to be quite a bit of variation in the amount of force required to join and separate KMC links. Some versions just slide apart with almost no force, as long as you squeeze the side plates together, as you mentioned. But it seems like lately all the 10 speed links I've used need quite a bit of force (as in requiring a tool) to snap them in or out, at least until they've worn a bit. My guess is this is a fairly recent (like within the past 4-5 years) and intentional design change rather than sloppy quality control. I haven't used a 9 speed KMC lately (though I do have one that I will be using once my current 9 speed SRAM wears out), so I don't know if this only applies to the narrower chains.
Metaluna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 03:08 PM   #35
Wanderer
aka Phil Jungels
 
Wanderer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: North Aurora, IL
Bikes: 08 Specialized Crosstrail Sport, 05 Sirrus Comp
Posts: 7,552
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
The 9spd links are pretty tough when new...... Once they have been opened a few times, they get a lot easier, but are still secure.
Wanderer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 04:26 PM   #36
rpenmanparker 
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Posts: 19,719
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 305 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Metaluna View Post
Go for the Park 1.2 tool. It's the same price as the KMC (maybe a dollar or two more), and they added a second set of indentations so you can use them to install the link as well as remove it. Some of the KMC links are very tight when they're new and need a lot of force to snap them together.
There is no difficulty locking the link if you place the assembled link on the top run of chain, hold the rear wheel, and turn the crank forward. Using the crank to apply the force makes it easy.
__________________
Robert

Quote:
Originally Posted by LAJ View Post
No matter where I go, here I am...
rpenmanparker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 05:30 PM   #37
dwmckee
Senior Member
 
dwmckee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Bikes: Co-Motion Cappuccino Tandem,'88 Bob Jackson Touring Bike, Co-Motion Cascadia Touring Bike, Merckx Strasbourg71
Posts: 1,484
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
All of this is why I finally switched to Wippermann master links last year. No tools, 2 seconds to open, never stuck, reliable.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg ONECOL.jpg (87.0 KB, 5 views)
dwmckee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 06:25 PM   #38
dsaul
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 443
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
I just position the needle nose pliers at an angle to the plates, so that squeezing pushes them in the right direction to open the link. Works every time.

Attached Images
File Type: jpg 13633373855_1f9037198c_q.jpg (11.3 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg 13633370645_21ea79ca49_q.jpg (11.2 KB, 83 views)
dsaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 10:12 PM   #39
Metaluna
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New Hampshire
Bikes: Gunnar Sport, Soma Double Cross Disc
Posts: 914
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by rpenmanparker View Post
There is no difficulty locking the link if you place the assembled link on the top run of chain, hold the rear wheel, and turn the crank forward. Using the crank to apply the force makes it easy.
True, and that's how I usually do it. The point I was making though, is if someone is going to buy one of these tools anyway, then it makes sense to get the one that has the most functionality for about the same money. I can think of a few cases where being able to close a tight link would come in handy.
Metaluna is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-14, 10:53 PM   #40
zukahn1
Senior Member
 
zukahn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fairplay Co
Bikes: Current 79 Nishiki Royal, Jeunet 620, 59 Crown Royal, notable previous bikes P.K. Ripper loop tail, Kawahara Laser Lite, Paramount Track full chrome, Raliegh Internatioanl, Motobecan Super Mirage.
Posts: 5,688
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
OK whats wrong with the approaved recomended method of just punching it out with a chain tool and replacing the master link seems pretty simple.
zukahn1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-14, 10:18 AM   #41
melloveloyellow
Senior Member
 
melloveloyellow's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Northern California
Bikes: RitcheyAscent, FisherMontare
Posts: 145
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
OK whats wrong with the approaved recomended method of just punching it out with a chain tool and replacing the master link seems pretty simple.
I re-use these links, many times. A chain tool destroys the link.
melloveloyellow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-05-14, 11:05 AM   #42
zukahn1
Senior Member
 
zukahn1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Fairplay Co
Bikes: Current 79 Nishiki Royal, Jeunet 620, 59 Crown Royal, notable previous bikes P.K. Ripper loop tail, Kawahara Laser Lite, Paramount Track full chrome, Raliegh Internatioanl, Motobecan Super Mirage.
Posts: 5,688
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by melloveloyellow View Post
I re-use these links, many times. A chain tool destroys the link.
Yes you can and should be able to to re-use these master links many times but if one is stuck or difficult the easiest best solution is just to replace it doesn't make sense to spend alot of time or effort messing with a questionable master link.
zukahn1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-14, 01:20 PM   #43
RandomTroll
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Bikes:
Posts: 385
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
OK whats wrong with the approaved recomended method of just punching it out with a chain tool and replacing the master link seems pretty simple.
I've always used a chain tool. I've had no problem reusing the link I punched out either. 'Miracle Links' are easier to use: if I can make them work I will use them. If I can't I won't. I asked for pointers.
RandomTroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-14, 01:58 PM   #44
contango 
2 Fat 2 Furious
 
contango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: England
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc, 2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
Posts: 3,998
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
OK whats wrong with the approaved recomended method of just punching it out with a chain tool and replacing the master link seems pretty simple.
Because it makes as much sense as kicking down your front door and replacing it, rather than bothering with using the key to open the lock? The whole point of the missing links is that you don't need to punch out links.
__________________
"For a list of ways technology has failed to improve quality of life, press three"
contango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-14, 02:56 PM   #45
MikeWMass
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: western Massachusetts (greater Springfield area)
Bikes: Velosolex St. Tropez, LeMond Zurich (spine bike), Rotator swb recumbent, Cignal tandem
Posts: 503
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by zukahn1 View Post
OK whats wrong with the approaved recomended method of just punching it out with a chain tool and replacing the master link seems pretty simple.
What are you punching out? The missing links I have don't have punchable pins. If you punch out the pins on one of the chain links, it seems to me you will end up with a shorter chain.
I use DSaul's method the first time or two, after which they open easily enough by hand. I just join and open them a few times before I put it on the bike. I have never had to break a chain on the road (knock wood!) but I carry a spare master link and my multitool does have a chainbreaker.
MikeWMass is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-14, 09:10 AM   #46
RocThrower
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Bikes:
Posts: 86
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Didn't really want to start a new thread, so I'm kind of piggy-backing on this.

Has anyone been reusing the KMC 11 Missling Link, despite the fact that they are labeled "non-reusable"? On my 9 speed bike, the link was reusable, but as of now I've not seen any reusable 11 speed links. I've read that some people have had success reusing them, and some people have even used the reusable 10 speed links on their 11 speed chains.

In other words, I'm cheap and don't want to replace links or pins every time I remove my chain.
RocThrower is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-14, 10:34 AM   #47
BikeWise1
30 YR Wrench
 
BikeWise1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Oxford, OH
Bikes: Waterford R-33, Madone 6.5, Trek 520
Posts: 2,006
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)


This is all it takes. It's all about the angle at which you set the jaws on the link. I do about 10 chains a day, and it never takes more than 5 seconds.
BikeWise1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:35 PM.