Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
There's no need to remember every possible cassette/freehub combination if you understand one basic principle. The system is analogous to how threadless headsets work, in that the cassette has to overhang the freehub so that the lockring bears on the cassette without bottoming against the freehub body.
It's that simple, add/remove spacers behind the cassette to bring the front out to slightly over 1mm overhang, install lockring and go. On the off chance that the cassette compresses more than you allowed, add another spacer and repeat. If you're unsure whether the lockring is compressing the cassette put a tire lever between any two sprockets (not any that share a spider, if any) and pry gently and see if you can push sprockets apart.
For those who use multiple wheels on the same bike, you might use micro-spacers behind the cassettes they all come to the same distance from the locknut face. That will allow wheel changing without needing to adjust RD trim.
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
“Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions”
- Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance