Advertise on Bikeforums.net



User Tag List

Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    South Eastern PA
    Posts
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Swapping Cassettes

    I have a Mavic Kysrium Elite S wheel with an Ultegra 6700 12-30 cassette. I removed it to install a Sram 12-32. The Ultegra cassette had 2 shims, one thick and one thin that went on hub first. Leaving these on when I installed the Sram cassette there was not enough room to put the last cog on so I removed the thinner of the 2 shims and the small cog went on. Should this last cog be flush with hub, protrude slightly? What is the correct way to shim this? thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    My Bikes
    '''96 Litespeed Catalyst, '05 Litespeed Firenze, '06 Litespeed Tuscany, '12 Surly Pacer, All are 3x8,9 or 10. It is hilly around here!
    Posts
    25,260
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Does the locknut tighten firmly against the smallest cog with no wiggle or movement in the cassette body? If so, you are good. However, those 1 mm shims are provided with all 10-speed Shimano cassettes for use on their 8/9/10-speed freehub bodies while SRAM cassettes do not need it. Mavic requires the additional 2 mm shim on their freehub bodies so I expect using the 2 mm but deleting the 1 mm is the proper arrangement for your SRAM cassette.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    South Eastern PA
    Posts
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Okay thanks. Nut tightened down fine. Not sure if I will notice the extra 2 cogs or not but figured it was worth trying. I live in a hilly area and am not a light weight. That being said the Shimano Ultegra cassette looks to be much better quality than the SRAM PG1070. Shifts okay in stand but if I do not notice a difference tomorrow riding I will end up changing back.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bill Kapaun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Mid Willamette Valley, Orygun
    My Bikes
    86 RockHopper,2008 Specialized Globe. Both upgraded to 9 speeds.
    Posts
    6,769
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    I think I would experiment trying to use minimal thickness of shims that allows maximum engagement of the lock ring without loose cogs.

    IF a 30T cog just barely gets you up the hill, 32T will be noticeable. It may be a situation where an inch seems like a foot.

  5. #5
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Oklahoma
    My Bikes
    Trek 5500, Colnago C-50
    Posts
    9,018
    Mentioned
    2 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    It's my understanding that with a SRAM cassette you do not need the 1 mm Shimano spacer. I'm assuming that the thicker spacer is for a Mavic hub and would have come with the hub. So you would need it.

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    New Rochelle, NY
    My Bikes
    too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
    Posts
    19,914
    Mentioned
    31 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)
    There's no need to remember every possible cassette/freehub combination if you understand one basic principle. The system is analogous to how threadless headsets work, in that the cassette has to overhang the freehub so that the lockring bears on the cassette without bottoming against the freehub body.

    It's that simple, add/remove spacers behind the cassette to bring the front out to slightly over 1mm overhang, install lockring and go. On the off chance that the cassette compresses more than you allowed, add another spacer and repeat. If you're unsure whether the lockring is compressing the cassette put a tire lever between any two sprockets (not any that share a spider, if any) and pry gently and see if you can push sprockets apart.

    For those who use multiple wheels on the same bike, you might use micro-spacers behind the cassettes they all come to the same distance from the locknut face. That will allow wheel changing without needing to adjust RD trim.
    FB
    Chain-L site

    An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

    “Never argue with an idiot. He will only bring you down to his level and beat you with experience.”, George Carlin

    “One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

    WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.

  7. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    South Eastern PA
    Posts
    131
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    As FB mentioned I just looked at last sprocket I installed to make sure it just protruded a little bit so everything would tighten up. Ended up leaving off 1mm spacer which goes with the Shimano cassette and left on the 2mm which goes with the Mavic wheel. Thanks you all for your help.

  8. #8
    Senior Member OldsCOOL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    northern michigan
    My Bikes
    '88 Cannondale Criterium
    Posts
    4,526
    Mentioned
    11 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Quote Originally Posted by FBinNY View Post
    There's no need to remember every possible cassette/freehub combination if you understand one basic principle. The system is analogous to how threadless headsets work, in that the cassette has to overhang the freehub so that the lockring bears on the cassette without bottoming against the freehub body.

    It's that simple, add/remove spacers behind the cassette to bring the front out to slightly over 1mm overhang, install lockring and go. On the off chance that the cassette compresses more than you allowed, add another spacer and repeat. If you're unsure whether the lockring is compressing the cassette put a tire lever between any two sprockets (not any that share a spider, if any) and pry gently and see if you can push sprockets apart.

    For those who use multiple wheels on the same bike, you might use micro-spacers behind the cassettes they all come to the same distance from the locknut face. That will allow wheel changing without needing to adjust RD trim.
    Well said!
    Having a flat tire as part of the total cycling experience is highly overrated. Knowing how to fix one quickly is not.

    '85 Trek 460 road racer

    '89 Raleigh Technium PRE

    '79 Motobecane Super Mirage

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •