Internal cable problem
04-07-14, 06:10 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 803
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Internal cable problem
Probably this not the last question I have about my new frame.
Here is the problem: The cable housing does not stop, but goes deeper and deeper inside the frame.
Please, see picture. It is hard to explain, but I will try:
I have ran the cable through the inner tube, and put cable housing with ferrule on. But as I slide the the housing down, it does not stop. As you can see on the picture the hole in the frame is larger than the ferrule. The internal cable housing is a plastic sleeve, but not the small, it has large diameter. I have inspected the best I could the the metal plate from the inside, and I found that the 3 internal plastic tubes runs to each hole. One of them is attached to the metal plate from the inside (the top one on the picture - it runs to rear brake, and there is no problem there - you can see the plastic tube in the hole)
But the two other plastic tubes are NOT attached to the metal plate from the inside. I do not know how did it happen, the frame I bought was used. I believe that the ferrule should be stopped by plastic tube. But I cannot fit it from inside of the frame into the hole on the metal plate.
Please, advise what I can to to fix the problem?
Thanks
Here is the problem: The cable housing does not stop, but goes deeper and deeper inside the frame.
Please, see picture. It is hard to explain, but I will try:
I have ran the cable through the inner tube, and put cable housing with ferrule on. But as I slide the the housing down, it does not stop. As you can see on the picture the hole in the frame is larger than the ferrule. The internal cable housing is a plastic sleeve, but not the small, it has large diameter. I have inspected the best I could the the metal plate from the inside, and I found that the 3 internal plastic tubes runs to each hole. One of them is attached to the metal plate from the inside (the top one on the picture - it runs to rear brake, and there is no problem there - you can see the plastic tube in the hole)
But the two other plastic tubes are NOT attached to the metal plate from the inside. I do not know how did it happen, the frame I bought was used. I believe that the ferrule should be stopped by plastic tube. But I cannot fit it from inside of the frame into the hole on the metal plate.
Please, advise what I can to to fix the problem?
Thanks
04-07-14, 08:17 AM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 28,682
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6556 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 58 Times
in
36 Posts
Can't say for sure but some internal brake cable setups have the outer casing going all the way through the frame. There are no stops with bare inner cable in between. The outer goes all the way from the lever to the caliper.
04-07-14, 08:32 AM
#3
~>~
04-07-14, 11:38 AM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Mustang, OK
Posts: 727
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If I am reading this right it is cable housing all the way and won't have stops.
https://www.argon18bike.com/documents...8_2012_v13.pdf
https://www.argon18bike.com/documents...8_2012_v13.pdf
04-07-14, 11:48 AM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,671
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5767 Post(s)
Liked 2,541 Times
in
1,407 Posts
It's kind of obvious. Unless there's a stop, and some kind of system for leading the inner wire out aligned with the axis of the tube, and a corresponding method for the inner wire to exit at the other end, the housing must go all the way through.
It's easy enough to know by looking a the exit hole, and if it too is 5-6mm in diameter, that means housing in/housing out.
It's easy enough to know by looking a the exit hole, and if it too is 5-6mm in diameter, that means housing in/housing out.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
04-07-14, 04:21 PM
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 803
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
It's kind of obvious. Unless there's a stop, and some kind of system for leading the inner wire out aligned with the axis of the tube, and a corresponding method for the inner wire to exit at the other end, the housing must go all the way through.
It's easy enough to know by looking a the exit hole, and if it too is 5-6mm in diameter, that means housing in/housing out.
It's easy enough to know by looking a the exit hole, and if it too is 5-6mm in diameter, that means housing in/housing out.
I was just overthinking it, because so used to external cables. What you said makes perfect sense. Thank you very much.
Then, another question, should I lube the housing as I run it through, and what lubricant to use?
04-07-14, 04:32 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,671
Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter
Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5767 Post(s)
Liked 2,541 Times
in
1,407 Posts
There's no need to lube the outside of the housing because other than you sliding it through, it doesn't move in the frame. In fact, many owners of frames with this configuration find the housing to walk changing the loops at either end in ways they don't like. I have a friend who ended up putting a dab of hot melt glue at one end to stop the walking.
OTOH- if you ride in wet weather, the housing ports are entry points for water. This makes a weep hole in the BB mure critical than otherwise. Besides the weep hole, I'd consider a bead of silicone caulk around the top tube entry point as a weather seal.
OTOH- if you ride in wet weather, the housing ports are entry points for water. This makes a weep hole in the BB mure critical than otherwise. Besides the weep hole, I'd consider a bead of silicone caulk around the top tube entry point as a weather seal.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
Chain-L site
An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
