cantilever brake replacement
#1
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cantilever brake replacement
I have an old set of shimano br-ty22 brakes on my commuter bike and they need help. They've been getting spongier and don't snap back well. I've disassembled and cleaned with some results but not great. I'm using problem solvers get wide cable clamps and brake cables are both new.
Are these brakes just worn out (though I don't see what can wear out with a metal lever)? Will I notice improvement if I replace them? If so, what would be an inexpensive option? My son's bike has Tektro Oryx and they're really cheap on amazon. Thanks in advance!
Are these brakes just worn out (though I don't see what can wear out with a metal lever)? Will I notice improvement if I replace them? If so, what would be an inexpensive option? My son's bike has Tektro Oryx and they're really cheap on amazon. Thanks in advance!
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#2
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Poor return is a friction issue. Possibly the bushing is a bit mushroomed from over tightening over time, or the spring is somehow damaged. As for the sponginess, that's most likely in the cable.
I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#3
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Did you replace the housing with the cables? That's an inexpensive thing to try if you didn't do that. You'd be surprised at how much that can help.
For replacement I like v-brakes, but that requires new levers too. It just starts to get expensive that way and isn't always worth it, especially if you have combined shifter/levers.
For replacement I like v-brakes, but that requires new levers too. It just starts to get expensive that way and isn't always worth it, especially if you have combined shifter/levers.
#4
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Poor return is a friction issue. Possibly the bushing is a bit mushroomed from over tightening over time, or the spring is somehow damaged. As for the sponginess, that's most likely in the cable.
I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
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The only source for that kind of stuff is the scavenge bin that some old school mechanics maintain. However, you might be able to dress them or the outer edge of the boss with a file. GO slow, and feel and look to confirm the problem before fixing it.
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FB
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An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.
Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
#6
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Righto - will check the local bike co-op
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Poor return is a friction issue. Possibly the bushing is a bit mushroomed from over tightening over time, or the spring is somehow damaged. As for the sponginess, that's most likely in the cable.
I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
Replacing the fixed Shimano straddle cable with a (traditional adjustable) straddle cable carrier is an important part of getting the most out of cantilever brakes.
As for inexpensive replacements for the whole units, the Nashbar cantilevers work quite well in my experience. I was very impressed with them*. Tektro 720's are great too. The Nashbar offering is regularly on sale, right now they're $22 for a full (front and rear) set:
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Normal Shipping Ground
* FWIW, I'm a 280 pound Clydesdale riding in a hilly city, set up right the Nashbar cantilevers will work great for anyone.
Last edited by Medic Zero; 04-20-14 at 09:10 PM.
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As for inexpensive replacements for the whole units, the Nashbar cantilevers work quite well in my experience. I was very impressed with them*. Tektro 720's are great too. The Nashbar offering is regularly on sale, right now they're $22 for a full (front and rear) set:
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Normal Shipping Ground
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Normal Shipping Ground
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The one thing that Shimano's Link system has going for it is that a broken cable won't send you over the handlebars like it would with a straddle cable. Installing fenders or a front reflector in the fork crown would catch the straddle cable and prevent this.
#10
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+1
Replacing the fixed Shimano straddle cable with a (traditional adjustable) straddle cable carrier is an important part of getting the most out of cantilever brakes.
As for inexpensive replacements for the whole units, the Nashbar cantilevers work quite well in my experience. I was very impressed with them*. Tektro 720's are great too. The Nashbar offering is regularly on sale, right now they're $22 for a full (front and rear) set:
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Normal Shipping Ground
* FWIW, I'm a 280 pound Clydesdale riding in a hilly city, set up right the Nashbar cantilevers will work great for anyone.
Replacing the fixed Shimano straddle cable with a (traditional adjustable) straddle cable carrier is an important part of getting the most out of cantilever brakes.
As for inexpensive replacements for the whole units, the Nashbar cantilevers work quite well in my experience. I was very impressed with them*. Tektro 720's are great too. The Nashbar offering is regularly on sale, right now they're $22 for a full (front and rear) set:
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Normal Shipping Ground
* FWIW, I'm a 280 pound Clydesdale riding in a hilly city, set up right the Nashbar cantilevers will work great for anyone.
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Indeed. Tektro 720's are about as wide as it gets, and part of why I selected them when I was looking to upgrade from some junk level cantilevers on a low-end old mountain bike. The wider the cantilever, the more mechanical advantage you get. They are wide enough that I ended up using a different set of brakes on the front of that bike because there was a conflict between the 720's and my Nitto Big Front rack. They work great on the rear for me, even if once in a blue moon I feel the edge of my shoe bump against them when I'm wearing big shoes. No harm though.
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On my CX bike I do the exact opposite -- run 720s on the front and old-style Shorty 4s on the rear. The Shorty's give me a little more clearance on mounts/dismounts. If I put the 720s on the rear, I'm sure I'd impale myself at least once a race
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