Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

cantilever brake replacement

Search
Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

cantilever brake replacement

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-20-14, 08:31 AM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
arsprod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,043

Bikes: Fairdale Weekender Drop, Motobecane 29LTD, Cannondale H400, Basso Coral

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 183 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 14 Posts
cantilever brake replacement

I have an old set of shimano br-ty22 brakes on my commuter bike and they need help. They've been getting spongier and don't snap back well. I've disassembled and cleaned with some results but not great. I'm using problem solvers get wide cable clamps and brake cables are both new.

Are these brakes just worn out (though I don't see what can wear out with a metal lever)? Will I notice improvement if I replace them? If so, what would be an inexpensive option? My son's bike has Tektro Oryx and they're really cheap on amazon. Thanks in advance!
__________________
I'm slow, go around
arsprod is offline  
Old 04-20-14, 08:59 AM
  #2  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,707

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5781 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times in 1,427 Posts
Poor return is a friction issue. Possibly the bushing is a bit mushroomed from over tightening over time, or the spring is somehow damaged. As for the sponginess, that's most likely in the cable.

I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 04-20-14, 09:21 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Brooklyn NY
Posts: 7,726

Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22 Post(s)
Liked 464 Times in 365 Posts
Did you replace the housing with the cables? That's an inexpensive thing to try if you didn't do that. You'd be surprised at how much that can help.

For replacement I like v-brakes, but that requires new levers too. It just starts to get expensive that way and isn't always worth it, especially if you have combined shifter/levers.
zacster is offline  
Old 04-20-14, 02:39 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
arsprod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,043

Bikes: Fairdale Weekender Drop, Motobecane 29LTD, Cannondale H400, Basso Coral

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 183 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 14 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Poor return is a friction issue. Possibly the bushing is a bit mushroomed from over tightening over time, or the spring is somehow damaged. As for the sponginess, that's most likely in the cable.

I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
Agreed and I replaced the yoke with straight cable and get wide yoke. Thanks for confirming that replacing the actual levers won't help. Considering the age of them buhings sounds like a likely culprit. Suggestions where I can get replacements?
__________________
I'm slow, go around
arsprod is offline  
Old 04-20-14, 02:57 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: New Rochelle, NY
Posts: 38,707

Bikes: too many bikes from 1967 10s (5x2)Frejus to a Sumitomo Ti/Chorus aluminum 10s (10x2), plus one non-susp mtn bike I use as my commuter

Mentioned: 140 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5781 Post(s)
Liked 2,576 Times in 1,427 Posts
Originally Posted by arsprod
Agreed and I replaced the yoke with straight cable and get wide yoke. Thanks for confirming that replacing the actual levers won't help. Considering the age of them buhings sounds like a likely culprit. Suggestions where I can get replacements?
The only source for that kind of stuff is the scavenge bin that some old school mechanics maintain. However, you might be able to dress them or the outer edge of the boss with a file. GO slow, and feel and look to confirm the problem before fixing it.
__________________
FB
Chain-L site

An ounce of diagnosis is worth a pound of cure.

Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.

“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN

WARNING, I'm from New York. Thin skinned people should maintain safe distance.
FBinNY is offline  
Old 04-20-14, 03:18 PM
  #6  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
arsprod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,043

Bikes: Fairdale Weekender Drop, Motobecane 29LTD, Cannondale H400, Basso Coral

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 183 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 14 Posts
Originally Posted by FBinNY
The only source for that kind of stuff is the scavenge bin that some old school mechanics maintain. However, you might be able to dress them or the outer edge of the boss with a file. GO slow, and feel and look to confirm the problem before fixing it.
Righto - will check the local bike co-op
__________________
I'm slow, go around
arsprod is offline  
Old 04-20-14, 08:58 PM
  #7  
Senior Member
 
Medic Zero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Vancouver,Washington
Posts: 2,280

Bikes: Old steel GT's, for touring and commuting

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by FBinNY
Poor return is a friction issue. Possibly the bushing is a bit mushroomed from over tightening over time, or the spring is somehow damaged. As for the sponginess, that's most likely in the cable.

I'm not a fan of Shimano's link system, and routinely replace them with conventional yoke cables, and very basic carriers. The one thing I can say for sure is that the metal isn't tired and getting softer, unless there's a crack someplace allowing more deflection than before.
+1
Replacing the fixed Shimano straddle cable with a (traditional adjustable) straddle cable carrier is an important part of getting the most out of cantilever brakes.

As for inexpensive replacements for the whole units, the Nashbar cantilevers work quite well in my experience. I was very impressed with them*. Tektro 720's are great too. The Nashbar offering is regularly on sale, right now they're $22 for a full (front and rear) set:
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Normal Shipping Ground


* FWIW, I'm a 280 pound Clydesdale riding in a hilly city, set up right the Nashbar cantilevers will work great for anyone.

Last edited by Medic Zero; 04-20-14 at 09:10 PM.
Medic Zero is offline  
Old 04-21-14, 07:03 AM
  #8  
Senior Member
 
Kopsis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. Pete, Florida
Posts: 1,258
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Medic Zero
As for inexpensive replacements for the whole units, the Nashbar cantilevers work quite well in my experience. I was very impressed with them*. Tektro 720's are great too. The Nashbar offering is regularly on sale, right now they're $22 for a full (front and rear) set:
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Normal Shipping Ground
The Nashbar cantis appear to be rebranded Tektro Oryx units. I had the Oryx on one bike and they do work ok when set up with a proper straddle cable. I much prefer Tektro 720s, though OP was looking for narrow profile and 720s are definitely not.
Kopsis is offline  
Old 04-21-14, 07:05 AM
  #9  
Collector of Useless Info
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,404
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
The one thing that Shimano's Link system has going for it is that a broken cable won't send you over the handlebars like it would with a straddle cable. Installing fenders or a front reflector in the fork crown would catch the straddle cable and prevent this.
cycle_maven is offline  
Old 04-21-14, 07:20 AM
  #10  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
arsprod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Indianapolis
Posts: 2,043

Bikes: Fairdale Weekender Drop, Motobecane 29LTD, Cannondale H400, Basso Coral

Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 183 Post(s)
Liked 17 Times in 14 Posts
Originally Posted by Medic Zero
+1
Replacing the fixed Shimano straddle cable with a (traditional adjustable) straddle cable carrier is an important part of getting the most out of cantilever brakes.

As for inexpensive replacements for the whole units, the Nashbar cantilevers work quite well in my experience. I was very impressed with them*. Tektro 720's are great too. The Nashbar offering is regularly on sale, right now they're $22 for a full (front and rear) set:
Nashbar Cantilever Front and Rear Brakeset - Normal Shipping Ground


* FWIW, I'm a 280 pound Clydesdale riding in a hilly city, set up right the Nashbar cantilevers will work great for anyone.
Holy crap, that really is a full set. $22 is cheaper than scavenging around extra parts - ordered.
__________________
I'm slow, go around
arsprod is offline  
Old 04-21-14, 09:44 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Medic Zero's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Vancouver,Washington
Posts: 2,280

Bikes: Old steel GT's, for touring and commuting

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 39 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Kopsis
The Nashbar cantis appear to be rebranded Tektro Oryx units. I had the Oryx on one bike and they do work ok when set up with a proper straddle cable. I much prefer Tektro 720s, though OP was looking for narrow profile and 720s are definitely not.
Indeed. Tektro 720's are about as wide as it gets, and part of why I selected them when I was looking to upgrade from some junk level cantilevers on a low-end old mountain bike. The wider the cantilever, the more mechanical advantage you get. They are wide enough that I ended up using a different set of brakes on the front of that bike because there was a conflict between the 720's and my Nitto Big Front rack. They work great on the rear for me, even if once in a blue moon I feel the edge of my shoe bump against them when I'm wearing big shoes. No harm though.
Medic Zero is offline  
Old 04-22-14, 07:12 AM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Kopsis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: St. Pete, Florida
Posts: 1,258
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time in 1 Post
Originally Posted by Medic Zero
They are wide enough that I ended up using a different set of brakes on the front of that bike because there was a conflict between the 720's and my Nitto Big Front rack.
On my CX bike I do the exact opposite -- run 720s on the front and old-style Shorty 4s on the rear. The Shorty's give me a little more clearance on mounts/dismounts. If I put the 720s on the rear, I'm sure I'd impale myself at least once a race
Kopsis is offline  
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tonyfourdogs
Classic & Vintage
9
12-14-17 03:51 PM
CrowSeph
Bicycle Mechanics
12
05-09-16 07:58 PM
Realsteel95
Bicycle Mechanics
4
05-03-14 09:52 AM
apollored
Bicycle Mechanics
18
11-20-12 12:20 PM
soymateofeo
Bicycle Mechanics
12
06-03-11 01:33 AM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.