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Old 04-23-14, 07:00 AM   #1
adw999
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Interrupts with intube brake cables?

I've picked up an old Colnago superissimo, similar to the one here: Steel Vintage Bikes - Colnago Superissimo Classic Bicycle

Brakes are Modolo super prestige's:

I won't be using it for racing so I'd like to fit some top bar brake levers; I've been thinking about interrupters, but my understanding is that they move the brake cable housing, rather than the cable - so will they will work with my frame, where the brake cables are inside the tube of the frame?

If they won't, I'm thinking of ditching the dropbar brake levers and installing some normal top bar levers, but I can't seem to find any that will fit a 23.4mm bar (the stem area on my handlebar is 25.4). Is this a normal thing to do?

Thanks
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Old 04-23-14, 07:08 AM   #2
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I would not reccomend top-mounts as your only brake lever , there are brake levers made to be on the end of the cable ,


those are made to interrupt the housing in the center , of the cable. .. ,
yes the straight bar is 7/8" only bulged to 1" in the center where the stem is..


if you think in relative terms as you spread the housing the cable is relatively shorter. ..
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Old 04-23-14, 07:14 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by adw999 View Post
I won't be using it for racing so I'd like to fit some top bar brake levers; I've been thinking about interrupters, but my understanding is that they move the brake cable housing, rather than the cable - so will they will work with my frame, where the brake cables are inside the tube of the frame?
Yes.
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Old 04-23-14, 07:28 AM   #4
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I like interrupters, a lot.

But then I like suicides too...
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Old 04-23-14, 07:35 AM   #5
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"Top bar" brake levers are meant to be used on straight MTB bars, not drop bars and, are the wrong clamp diameter. As noted, CX-type interrupter levers can be used with your internal cable routing.
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Old 04-23-14, 07:41 AM   #6
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thanks for the replies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fietsbob View Post
I would not reccomend top-mounts as your only brake lever , there are brake levers made to be on the end of the cable
by top mounts do you mean interrupters specifically, or any type of top mount? including what i think is the classic type of top mount, like this:http://www.wigglestatic.com/product-...=430&h=430&a=7

(i know they're for v-brakes, they're just as a quick example where, as you say, they're made for the end of brake cables)



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"Top bar" brake levers are meant to be used on straight MTB bars, not drop bars and, are the wrong clamp diameter. As noted, CX-type interrupter levers can be used with your internal cable routing.
i think i may go for the interrupters then.. i have a hard time of figuring out how they work by moving the cable housing. i've searched for a video with no luck, think i need to go and see some in action
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Old 04-23-14, 07:52 AM   #7
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a quick thought: will interrupters give me enough stopping power for me to consider them as my main brakes? like i said, it's just for small city commute trips, and i don't think i'll be using the dropbar levers often
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Old 04-23-14, 08:00 AM   #8
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a quick thought: will interrupters give me enough stopping power for me to consider them as my main brakes? like i said, it's just for small city commute trips, and i don't think i'll be using the dropbar levers often
The levers should generate sufficient power but, the weak link in your brake system is the brakes themselves. Those Modolo single pivot brakes were never renown for their power and their pads (Are they still originals? How old?) are mediocre at best and may be age hardened on top of that. The won't be equal to modern double pivot brakes no matter what style brake levers you use.
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Old 04-23-14, 08:08 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by HillRider View Post
The levers should generate sufficient power but, the weak link in your brake system is the brakes themselves. Those Modolo single pivot brakes were never renown for their power and their pads (Are they still originals? How old?) are mediocre at best and may be age hardened on top of that. The won't be equal to modern double pivot brakes no matter what style brake levers you use.
the original pads are still on them (they have 1984 marked on them!), but i plan on replacing them - they are extremely squeaky and as hard as metal. I've got a spare pair of (fairly cheap and cheerful) clarks pads but i think i might have to invest in some better ones based on what you say
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Old 04-23-14, 08:09 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by adw999 View Post
a quick thought: will interrupters give me enough stopping power for me to consider them as my main brakes? like i said, it's just for small city commute trips, and i don't think i'll be using the dropbar levers often
i have used cx interrupter levers on my road bike handlebars for years. they require no other levers. just looking at the design makes that clear to most people. and there will be no problem with using them on those fine old single pivot brakes.

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Old 04-23-14, 11:39 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by mconlonx View Post
Yes.
+1, the interrupts will work on your bike. Pushing housing or pulling the inner wire are functionally identical. It's one of those "raise the bridge or lower the water" things.

I won't comment about the appropriateness of the decision, that's for everyone to decide for themselves, but I know tourists who are very happy using these types of levers for dual position braking.
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Old 04-23-14, 04:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
by top mounts do you mean interrupters specifically, or any type of top mount? including what i think is the classic type of top mount, like this:http://www.wigglestatic.com/product-...=430&h=430&a=7 **
Quote:
a quick thought: will interrupters give me enough stopping power for me to consider them as my main brakes?***
**thats a brake lever for non drop Bars IE straight, riser and trekking bars etc.

it is made to be on the end of the cable.

***Interruptors may work ... until you break off the end of the brake cable , flexing the soldered stiff cable end

with a brake lever only used safely in the middle of the housing run ..

the main brake lever would be a road aero type , as the 'interrupter-topmount' is at the end of where the
handlebar tape finised at the top-center of the road bike drop bars.
and the brake cable housing emerges from under the tape ..


KOOK STOP Makes insert pads for that brake , fresh pads would be good.

there are people who hate anything but the latest dual pivot brakes ..

those who are happy to sell them, like their business ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 04-23-14 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 04-23-14, 05:18 PM   #13
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I was looking at the Schwinn CrossFit at Canadian Tire and tried the cross levers. They have a very powerful feel and stop immediately. The same cable goes from the brifters (brake lever/shifters) and through the cross-top or interrupter levers.
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Old 04-23-14, 07:47 PM   #14
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there are people who hate anything but the latest dual pivot brakes ..those who are happy to sell them, like their business ..
You really are a Luddite aren't you? I've used several different makes and models of good quality single pivots and several different makes and models of good quality double pivots and can say without any reservations double pivots are better. Sure single pivots will stop the bike given enough effort but at the end of a loooong, twisty downhill your hands will thank you for using double pivots.
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Old 04-23-14, 09:11 PM   #15
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if more pivots add power, i've got an idea. just keep adding more and more pivots to caliper brakes, eventually we should be able to power the entire NYC power grid by a gripping a single brake lever.
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Old 04-24-14, 09:55 AM   #16
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But my single pivot Campag brakes are adequate , and may be fine for moste people , IF well set up and adjusted ..

have 2 Bromptons 1 CLB single pivot, the new one dual pivot both work well enough ..


Re The oft disparaged Ned Ludd..

the destruction of the common lands and the path to a corporate -state crushing of the of humannity into a divide of the haves and the have nots
is part of the movement labeled the Luddites around the Crown / Parliaments Inclosure acts


Inclosure Acts - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

predates and was part of the pressure that put the old worlds people on the New, landing in the Americas .

which is now run for the same concentration of wealth and power in the hands of the few as the old feudalism,
but with paper money handed around for illusion of value.


But if you want to throw away old brakes and buy new ones , You money is welcome by the sellers .



for your hammer head bat out of hell descents, the rim brake itself is argued as being obsolete here.
some where by someone..

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Old 04-24-14, 10:00 AM   #17
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the destruction of the common lands and the path to a corporate -state crushing of the of humannity into a divide of the haves and the have nots
is part of the movement labeled the Luddites around the Crown / Parliaments Inclosure acts


Inclosure Acts - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

predates and was part of the pressure that put the old worlds people on the New, landing in the Americas .
Thank you for the history lesson but I knew where the term originated. I used it in it's current meaning.
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Old 04-24-14, 10:28 PM   #18
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I descend mountains on a daily basis (20-30 mins descents on 8-10% grades often with late/aggressive braking depending on weather and mood)..

I have tried using interrupters as standalone brake levers (XLC cross levers), here's my thoughts about them:

1. They work fine in term of power (also modern brakes just work vastly better in general, dual-pivot or not.. well in my experience anyway, and I do love vintage gear)

2. They feel really flimsy (they are cheaper and 2x-3x lighter than "proper" flat bar levers, there's definitely a reason for that)

3. I agree that in principle, pulling/pushing is equivalent as mentioned, but the catch is that they pull the cable end at an angle, whereas proper flat bar levers have some sort of pivot system to avoid this (difficult to explain but *very* obvious visually).

So personnaly I would only recommend them for commuting on flat ground, they just look and feel dangerous...

If you really want a flat bar setup, my recommendation would be to get proper flat bar levers and a flat bar.. That's what I do on my old CAAD 5 (flat bar + bar-ends + paul thumbies) but obviously that would look really out of place on that nice Colnago..
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Old 04-24-14, 10:33 PM   #19
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Here's a picture that might help to explain the "angle" issue.. It's more obvious when you use them as standalone levers and if you're like me and like your brakes fairly loose (so you have to pull more cable to get them to bite)..

Not so bad of course but enough that I didn't want to do regular mountain descents with that..





Edit: oh and that picture (found via Google) comes from here, might have some relevant info: http://bicycles.stackexchange.com/qu...ke-performance
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