7 speed rear 11-23 confused noob
#1
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7 speed rear 11-23 confused noob
Hey everyone. As you can see I'm new to road cycling and love it. My question is about the rear of the bike.
Bike is a cannondale r500 2.8. 95 build year.
December to be exact.
Shimano rsx components all around.
Ritchey clipless pedals.
bike is all original build except pedals
I'd rather save money for a newer bike in the next couple of years so I'd rather not spend too much money and upgrade too much. Got a great deal on the bike
So here's my question.
I counted the rear cogs and the rear cogs are 11-23 set up. Will changing the tooth count be beneficial to me. I tried researching and just confused myself. Will a different tooth count help on the climbs.
Thanks for any who can clarify and any other advice to help keep upgrades small but beneficial would be greatly appreciated
Bike is a cannondale r500 2.8. 95 build year.
December to be exact.
Shimano rsx components all around.
Ritchey clipless pedals.
bike is all original build except pedals
I'd rather save money for a newer bike in the next couple of years so I'd rather not spend too much money and upgrade too much. Got a great deal on the bike
So here's my question.
I counted the rear cogs and the rear cogs are 11-23 set up. Will changing the tooth count be beneficial to me. I tried researching and just confused myself. Will a different tooth count help on the climbs.
Thanks for any who can clarify and any other advice to help keep upgrades small but beneficial would be greatly appreciated
#2
Really Old Senior Member
Larger cogs equals lower gearing.
Are you sure you have 7 speed? bikepedia.com lists this bike as an 8 speed.
I believe the largest cog it is rated for is 28T??
Are you sure you have 7 speed? bikepedia.com lists this bike as an 8 speed.
I believe the largest cog it is rated for is 28T??
Last edited by Bill Kapaun; 04-23-14 at 08:56 AM.
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To the OP: yes a larger largest cog (say 25, 26 or 28 teeth) will make climbing easier but, in practical terms, the only way to get it is to buy a complete new cassette. And, also in practical terms, that means a new chain to cover the additional teeth plus work properly with the new cassette. We're not talking a lot of money for the changes but there will be a cost.
#4
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
11-23 is a manly man's gearing... lesser men would want a wider range on the cassette so that there was a 26 or 28 tooth cog to make hill climbing a little easier and faster.
You can buy an 11-28 7 speed cassette and should purchase a new chain to make sure it all meshes correctly... you can run 8 speed chain on a 7 and this often improves things nicely. You are looking at about $35.00 in parts and would need the special tools to remove the old cassette and a chain tool.
My old Cooper road bike has a 13-21 (7 speed) mated to a 42/54 crank... if I know there is going to be more climbing I will swap out the racing block for one with a wider range as this will make you feel like a penitent if there are hard climbs or if you have to spend the day running into the wind.
You can buy an 11-28 7 speed cassette and should purchase a new chain to make sure it all meshes correctly... you can run 8 speed chain on a 7 and this often improves things nicely. You are looking at about $35.00 in parts and would need the special tools to remove the old cassette and a chain tool.
My old Cooper road bike has a 13-21 (7 speed) mated to a 42/54 crank... if I know there is going to be more climbing I will swap out the racing block for one with a wider range as this will make you feel like a penitent if there are hard climbs or if you have to spend the day running into the wind.
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11-23 is a manly man's gearing... lesser men would want a wider range on the cassette so that there was a 26 or 28 tooth cog to make hill climbing a little easier and faster.
You can buy an 11-28 7 speed cassette and should purchase a new chain to make sure it all meshes correctly... you can run 8 speed chain on a 7 and this often improves things nicely. You are looking at about $35.00 in parts and would need the special tools to remove the old cassette and a chain tool.
My old Cooper road bike has a 13-21 (7 speed) mated to a 42/54 crank... if I know there is going to be more climbing I will swap out the racing block for one with a wider range as this will make you feel like a penitent if there are hard climbs or if you have to spend the day running into the wind.
You can buy an 11-28 7 speed cassette and should purchase a new chain to make sure it all meshes correctly... you can run 8 speed chain on a 7 and this often improves things nicely. You are looking at about $35.00 in parts and would need the special tools to remove the old cassette and a chain tool.
My old Cooper road bike has a 13-21 (7 speed) mated to a 42/54 crank... if I know there is going to be more climbing I will swap out the racing block for one with a wider range as this will make you feel like a penitent if there are hard climbs or if you have to spend the day running into the wind.
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Or a man (or woman) who rides in Florida. I had a bike I kept at a friend's house in Orlando and it had a 13-21 7-speed cassette with a 50/40 crank. However there is only one hill of any note in the whole state.
I would NEVER use that gearing here in Pittsburgh.
I would NEVER use that gearing here in Pittsburgh.
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If the chainrings are the original RSX they are probably pretty small, so the 11-23 cassette may make sense.
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I agree with Sixty-Fiver: changing the cassette to a 11-28 will get you a 20% lower low gear without needing to change anything else except the chain.
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How often do you find yourself riding in the 23t cog, and wishing you had a larger (easier) gear to shift to?
If not, then you are good with what you have. Otherwise, and xx-28 (or 30?) may be a better fit.
If not, then you are good with what you have. Otherwise, and xx-28 (or 30?) may be a better fit.
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I live in NH and things can get steep quick. I would like a larger gear sometimes to keep the legs from overworking and keep a higher smoother cadence on climbs. After my first season my legs will be up to par and I could switch back if I wanted to but for now I don't want my legs to fail faster than they need to be. After the advice here for 30 bucks it sounds like it's worth a shot. Although for a chain can I just grab any 7/8 speed 116 link 3/32" chain or will I need one with different link count. Thanks again for all the help
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11-23 is a manly man's gearing... lesser men would want a wider range on the cassette so that there was a 26 or 28 tooth cog to make hill climbing a little easier and faster.
You can buy an 11-28 7 speed cassette and should purchase a new chain to make sure it all meshes correctly... you can run 8 speed chain on a 7 and this often improves things nicely. You are looking at about $35.00 in parts and would need the special tools to remove the old cassette and a chain tool.
My old Cooper road bike has a 13-21 (7 speed) mated to a 42/54 crank... if I know there is going to be more climbing I will swap out the racing block for one with a wider range as this will make you feel like a penitent if there are hard climbs or if you have to spend the day running into the wind.
You can buy an 11-28 7 speed cassette and should purchase a new chain to make sure it all meshes correctly... you can run 8 speed chain on a 7 and this often improves things nicely. You are looking at about $35.00 in parts and would need the special tools to remove the old cassette and a chain tool.
My old Cooper road bike has a 13-21 (7 speed) mated to a 42/54 crank... if I know there is going to be more climbing I will swap out the racing block for one with a wider range as this will make you feel like a penitent if there are hard climbs or if you have to spend the day running into the wind.
Last edited by zukahn1; 04-23-14 at 11:57 PM.
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23 as the lowest is nasty. Even with a 36 up front. I'd be going for a 28 to allow some breathing room on steeper climbs. Knees don't enjoy 23 on hills!
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I live in NH and things can get steep quick. I would like a larger gear sometimes to keep the legs from overworking and keep a higher smoother cadence on climbs. After my first season my legs will be up to par and I could switch back if I wanted to but for now I don't want my legs to fail faster than they need to be. After the advice here for 30 bucks it sounds like it's worth a shot. Although for a chain can I just grab any 7/8 speed 116 link 3/32" chain or will I need one with different link count. Thanks again for all the help
Also... consider updating your info to include your location... you will find it gets much better responses to many queries.
#16
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Professional racers could roll up some pretty severe (albeit shorter) hills at speed with a 42/21 which is 52 gear inches or with a 23 which is 48 gear inches... a 28 tooth cog is a climber's gear when it is mated to a standard double and you can climb much easier on those 39 gear inches.
Modern bikes that use a compact and an 11-25 give you the same range as a standard double with an 11-28... many run an 11-27 for an even lower climbing gear or bite the bullet and rock a triple.
My Cooper is built for flat out speed with it's gearing... the 54 tooth chainwheel compensates for the larger 13 tooth high cog and makes for a more efficient top gear and the close spacing makes maintaining a high cadence easier. The 54/13 will let me move along in the low to mid 40's pretty comfortably when the legs are working.
I just sold my Proctor road bike which had a 40/52 and an 11-28 (8 speed)... that was a really nice set up for climbing.
My Garlatti is also a very decent climber as it has a 40 gear inch low... it has a half step double (49/52) and a 5 speed alpine block that is 14-32 and this is really old school gearing but it works really well when you know how to exploit the half step.
#17
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craze8z, The '95 & '96 R500s, yours is likely a '96 model, originally had triple crank sets, how many chainrings do you now have?
Brad
Brad
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Well I push a 43/16 SS beater most of the time so maybe I'm not your best source gearing wise.
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I shouldve included this. Not sure if this changes things. My cranks are 26/36/46. Will that change a 11-28 set up. Should I go for closer to a 13/14t-28 with that crank set. There is a good mix of semi flat to hill to I have to climb that after how many miles already
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The somewhat compact triple with 26 bailout and 46 tops makes a big difference a 11-23 through 26 would be normal for this setup for a new cassette a 12-25 is probably cheapest and should work fine giving a close to 1 to 1 ratio low which should put you up most hills as easy as walking at a moderate pace.
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It does change things, but a 12-28T cassette like this is still a good cassette choice if you need a lot of help for your climbing. I have to suggest a new chain also as yours maybe too short should you select the 28/46 combination by accident.
Brad
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#23
Really Old Senior Member
IF you have an 11T small cog, you have a Free Hub. Free Wheels don't come that small. I've never seen one smaller than 13T.
Your term "freewheel cassette" is like saying you have a Ford Chevy. It's one OR the other.
Suggest you study this link-
https://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
Your term "freewheel cassette" is like saying you have a Ford Chevy. It's one OR the other.
Suggest you study this link-
https://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
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Freewheels do come in 11T, now.
But they didn't back then.
If you have a freewheel hub, just use a freewheel. They are still made, in various cog sets. If you have a 7 speed freehub (they existed in RSX), then use a 7 speed cassette.
But they didn't back then.
If you have a freewheel hub, just use a freewheel. They are still made, in various cog sets. If you have a 7 speed freehub (they existed in RSX), then use a 7 speed cassette.
#25
Really Old Senior Member
Freewheels do come in 11T, now.
But they didn't back then.
If you have a freewheel hub, just use a freewheel. They are still made, in various cog sets. If you have a 7 speed freehub (they existed in RSX), then use a 7 speed cassette.
But they didn't back then.
If you have a freewheel hub, just use a freewheel. They are still made, in various cog sets. If you have a 7 speed freehub (they existed in RSX), then use a 7 speed cassette.
Thanks for the link- I stand corrected.
For that era though, I'll stand on a free hub.