pumabicycle

The title pretty much says it all... Should I use anti seize compound or grease, both? And which parts need it when assembling a bike?

Thanks,

-P

rpenmanparker 

Others may differ, but as far as I am concerned, there is no need for anti-seize compound anywhere on a bike. Grease on all threads just about does it. Oh and on the mating surfaces of cranks with bottom brackets. One other thing you may want to use if you are working at all with carbon parts in contact with each other or corrosion prone metals is carbon assembly paste.

SquidPuppet

What material frame?
What material fork?
What material components?
What type of components?

pumabicycle

My frame and fork are steel. Components are Campagnolo Veloce (Aluminum). I do know that Campy uses Loctite 222 to adhere the external bearing cups of the bottom bracket. That's the only bizarre thing I know about so far.

I'm glad I can just use grease. The little things for this bike are nickle and diming me to death.

Tim_Iowa

You can use anti-seize compound like loctite for things you want to tighten and stay tight. Nuts, bolts, etc.

You should use grease for things that need to keep moving. Bearings, spindles, etc.

Grease is better than nothing for anti-seize purposes. It keeps the threads in good shape but doesn't lock them like loctite. Loctite protects the threads and locks them.

When installing carbon bits, use carbon-specific assembly compound.

Drew Eckhardt 

Anti-seize, zinc-based since that will corrode preferentially over aluminum. Everywhere there are threaded metals with different (titanium, steel, brass, and especially aluminum) galvanic potentials.

The big one is on spoke threads when using alloy nipples. You have a large difference in potential and are likely to pickup water and road salt. I have wheels with alloy nipples I rode in Colorado following snow storms for most of a decade that still turn like new.

I also use anti-seize in rim sockets, but otherwise stick to grease where there aren't threads (alloy stem or seat post in a steel fork or titanium frame) because it comes of easier when you get some on your hands.

Grease is probably good enough, but anti-seize is inexpensive (I think I paid $12 for a half pound. With a small tube being a lifetime supply if you're not building engines that could last generations) insurance.

Bill Kapaun

Anti seize and locktite serve two entirely different purposes.

Jed19

+1 on all words.

wernst

I can think of a few places I use anti-seize, but just because I have a tub of it here:

- Water-bottle cage bolts
- Rack or Fender mount bolts
- Threaded fork headset cups into the steerer tube
- Quill stem bolt into the expander/wedge threads
- Threads of the bolts to mount cranks to square taper bottom bracket axle
- Bottom bracket fixed cup
- Rear Derailleur mounting bolt
- Front Derailleur tube clamp bolt
- Cantilever brake stud threads
- Freewheel threads to the rear hub

I'd use grease if I didn't have the anti-seize.

-Warr

Crankycrank

I'd also agree about using grease for everything except where specified to use something else, i.e. carbon paste, Loctite, etc. Also would agree that anti-seize is likely to be more durable but in the interest of keeping it simple grease works well. One negative of anti-seize is that it's a PITA to wipe clean off of threaded parts and very difficult to wash out of clothing and carpets.

Grand Bois

Anti seize compound and Loctite are two completely different things with completely different uses. Don't count on anti-seize to keep your nuts and bolts tight.

dsbrantjr

I use Tef-Gel TEF-GEL - Ultra safety systems - Home page on dissimilar metal joints like pedal to crank and BB to frame, grease elsewhere. Haven't needed threadlocker so far, properly-torqued fasteners should generally not need it.

I have been experimenting with Vibra-Tite VC-3 Thread-Mate Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate - Vibra-Tite on rack and fender hardware where fasteners loosening due to vibration is a concern. Good luck so far.

EhGiOeS

Its pretty hard to beat Teflon plumbers tape for anti-seize. Cheap, clean,doesn't attract or hold dirt. Ed

rpenmanparker 

That is a very interesting suggestion and has come up before but without any conclusion or resolution. One sees it rarely on a bicycle, but some folks do use it. Is it a valid replacement for everything else, grease, anti-seize, Loctite, whatever? Can we get some input on this question here?

02Giant 

There are high and low density PTFE tapes, you would want the low density for anything on a bike. PTFE tape can cause issues if you use too much especially on fine threaded or aluminum assemblies, it can be easy to cross thread with too much tape, or even strip threads. Use it sparingly.

It is not a replacement for Locktite, I prefer anti-seize over grease on threaded assemblies of dissimilar metals.

EhGiOeS

Hi Robert I've been using tape since the early "70's". Never had a problem. Currently 10 Colnagos a Gios SR Gitane Team Pro and a few others. Its strictly anti-seize. Ed

HillRider

I've used Teflon "Plumbers Tape" on bottom bracket threads on Steel, Aluminum and Ti frames for years and it's the best way I know to keep things quiet as it absolutely prevents clicks and squeaks. It's also a good sealant and corrosion preventative. However, that's the only place I use it.

Other threaded parts get a good coating of grease and that has always been sufficient, even on my "rain bike". Anti-seize is certainly good but is overkill on bikes where temperatures and loads are minor. It's also dreadfully messy to work with and you WILL get it on your clothes.

Obviously, for rotating bearings (hubs, headsets, older style bottom brackets, pedals) grease is a necessity.

Hendo252 

i agree with you on all counts, but thought I'd mention that anti-seize is available in stick form that makes it much easier to use and much less messy.

i bought a stick of copper-based anti-seize for another use but have found it works great on bikes too. Other favors are available as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37617-...ref=pd_cp_hi_2

Many ways to skin this cat, and this is just one more option.

-Tom in SoCal

3alarmer 

.
.....One of the prior battles in the war of anti-seize, in which I said my piece.

On a side note, is it just me, or others witnessing posts (like the OP) being magically transformed into annoying advertising ?

HillRider

Hmmm, I've never seen it in that form. It certainly would be easier to apply than by dipping a brush or, worse, fingers, into a metal can.

HillRider

Well, it's "advertising" if the poster benefits from the sale. It's just an endorsement if the poster has used and likes the product and isn't paid for the mention.

3alarmer 

...yeah, I don't think you understand. It's fixed now, but an ad for something replaced everything except the title in the OP, i.e. the text was gone.

HillRider

Oh, I was fortunate enough to have missed that. I only saw the product links in a couple of posts and they were apparently just from satisfied customers.

We do get attempts at posting free ads here on occasion and a report to the moderator usually deletes it pretty quickly.

pumabicycle

I went ahead and bought a tube of anti-seize, Loctite 222 and more grease. I was having a moment of "I'm spending a fortune on this bike and I've gotta slow it down"but alas, I'm in way too deep anyway.

Thank you for the tips, suggestions and advice.

-P

wernst

And I forgot the #1 use:

- Pedals into crankarms! Especially steel pedal axles into aluminum crankarms - which is pretty much everything these days.

-Warr