Shahmatt

So I recently replaced just one of the stock tires on my 349 (16") wheels with a Marathon Greenguard.

The tire seems less easier to get rotating from a standstill compared to the Kojak's on my other bike that has 20" wheels. I blame the increased rolling resistance and maybe weight to a lesser extent. Or maybe it's just in my head. Somehow I crave the nimbleness of my 20" Kojak's.

I love my 20" Kojak's. I would've gotten the same for these 16" wheels but for the fact that the 16" equivalent is 1.25" and thinner than the 20" Kojak (1.35"). The last time I lost a tire it was because I got tram-lined in a road drain with the 20" Kojak's. I was lucky to not lose my wheel or get seriously injured. The Marathon's are safer because they are wider and less likely to fall in.

I've now discovered that this Marathon tire is starting to bulge at one end. The tire is less than a month old and appears to be in pristine condition. I blame QC as I've been within the recommended pressure. I've contacted the seller and now waiting for a response.

Another negative point towards the Marathon is that it was extremely hard to put on, and even harder to take off. I nearly destroyed my tire levers, and my thumbs took days to recover.

Should I replace or get a refund? It seems that the tire options available to me here in Singapore tend to only be Schwalbe. I want to get the Kojak's which is easily available locally, but the width holds me back. I've read that Primo Comets are good, but though they might be cheap in the States they cost a bomb when shipped out East.

Ideally I'd like some bald tires of about the same width as this Marathon tire. Puncture resistance is not a serious issue as the roads here are relatively debris free and well maintained. Low weight and rolling resistance are great benefits for start-stop commuting with traffic lights.

What other options are out there?

FBinNY 

I don't ever do brand suggestions because it would require too much first hand experience with a range of stuff. (If I find something I like I stay with it, unless there's a reason to change).

But your assessment that the difference in rolling resistance, or acceleration may be in your head is spot on. As a rule smaller/lighter wheels are easier to accelerate, but have greater rolling resistance on bumpy roads, but the differences are small, except when the bumps are a bit larger, say 1/2" or more. The brand/tire differences other than size are too small to detect reliably, though people swear they can tell.

If you don't like this particular tire, try another, or maybe tinker with width and pressure. But if the change doesn't make you happier, accept that you're dealing with a characteristic related to the size, not the brand.

Jeff Wills

There's just not a lot available in the 16" (ETRTO 349mm) size. The recumbent sellers don't show much beyond the Schwalbe and Primo offerings:
Hostel Shoppe Recumbents - the world's largest source for recumbent information, bicycles, trikes and accessories.

You might try the Greenspeed Scorcher. It's a little wider (I think that's what your asking for) and Greenspeed is located in Australia. Shipping to Singapore might be cheaper.

Shahmatt

Thanks for your responses.

Unfortunately the Greenspeed Scorcher might just be too large in size, and the clearance to the fenders might be an issue. This leaves only the Kojaks and Marathon tires once again.

The seller has messaged me saying they will ship me a replacement tire. I'll let them do that I guess. After having read a few more reviews in various places it appears that this tire size is as good as I can get right now.

Argh! Just thinking about putting these on make my thumbs hurt!

FBinNY 

The keys to easier mounting are minimum diameter center well in the rim, and best technique.

You can't change the rim, but thick rim tape adds to the diameter, so find the thinnest rim tape you can. I've had best results with filament tape, which has the added virtue of being dirt cheap.

Then when mounting, start opposite the valve. When it gets hard near the end, let air out of the rube, go back to where you started, and push the tire to the middle and slide your thumbs along to push it forward toward the valve. Then lift the last section over bushing with the callous at the base of your thumb. Finish by pushing the valve in to free any tube trapped under the bead. Pull the valve back to seat and pump.

fietsbob

I have had the Schwalbe 'kevlar guard' tires on my Brompton for several years now, No problems ..

they make a Kojak in 349 too if you want those , instead.

they are a 32 - 349 (I think,) Vs the 37-349 ..

Shahmatt

Thanks for the info.

When starting off I have historically not started opposite the valve and finishing at the valve location - Is the advantage of doing it this way to do with freeing the tube from being trapped underneath the bead?

Thinner rim tape sounds like a good idea. My wheel already has some rim tape on it. Is removing rim tape normally problematic? If sticky stuff remains on the rim what's the best way to clean it up?

Putting on the tire is difficult but by cajoling the tire with much patience into the rim center well, and also using cable ties to hold parts of the tire in place, I've managed to put it in on two occasions now. So not impossible now that I know how.

It is more difficult for me to remove the tire from the rim. I use tire levers but am terrified of destroying the tube. Are there any special techniques on tire removal other than trying the reverse of what is used to put it in?

FBinNY 

Two reasons to start opposite the valve. The second is as you thought, you can use the valve to clear trapped tube from under the bead.

The other is the valve itself. The deepest part of the rim is the center. The valve's width keeps the tire from moving to the center, so it cost's you slack. Depending on the inside shape of the rim, the difference can be very significant.

There's a subtle third reason. Some tubes are slightly short and will keep trying to come off at the open section of the tire. The valve pins it in place.

As for the goo from old rim tape. Who cares? you're putting new tape over it anyway. If some goo peeks out on the sides, you can take the tack out by dusting it with talc.